HELP-Seized bolt

[Bob Coury]

Have a socket head cap screw that holds the steering arm to a billet aluminum front upright. Replaced a few weeks ago just as preventive maintenance. Loosened the screw to remove shims and it began to bind up. It was not cross threaded. HAd to cut the head off the bolt, installed 2 jamb nuts to double nut it, and I just stretch the threads on the nut. Applied heat from a heat gun, and still no luck. Open to suggestions other than wire EDM.

Thanks
Bob

[Robins Ken]

Have a socket head cap screw that holds the steering arm to a billet aluminum front upright. Replaced a few weeks ago just as preventive maintenance. Loosened the screw to remove shims and it began to bind up. It was not cross threaded. HAd to cut the head off the bolt, installed 2 jamb nuts to double nut it, and I just stretch the threads on the nut. Applied heat from a heat gun, and still no luck. Open to suggestions other than wire EDM.

Thanks
Bob

Soak with diesel fuel and rotate c/w and anti c/w in small steps. Blow out debris as you go.

Heat gun may be not enough heat. Small propane torch?

Good luck. Don't butcher it. Ken.

[Bob Coury]

Thanks-yea-I didn't want to butcher it. Cut the head off clean and kept the threads intact. The upright is a giant heat sink, and I could not find my propane torch. I will get a map gas torch tomorrow.

[Robins Ken]

Thanks-yea-I didn't want to butcher it. Cut the head off clean and kept the threads intact. The upright is a giant heat sink, and I could not find my propane torch. I will get a map gas torch tomorrow.

Bob. yes step up the heat carefully.. The diesel thing is in my pea brain from a vintage bike magazine. Post how it goes. Cheers. KR

[S Lathrop]

Sounds like you have galled the threads. If that is the case, you are going to have to drill the bolt out.

I have heard of heating with a welding torch to where you have the bolt glowing. Then you quench the bolt with water. This is suppose to break the binding and corrosion. But I would be careful heating a steel bolt in aluminum because of the damage it might cause to the aluminum.

[Rick Kirchner]

To get the heat right into the bolt I'd put a single big thick nut on top and weld it on with wire feed. I've also had luck quenching it with Kroil - the oil will get sucked into the threads as the bolt cools. It will smoke and stink like crazy.

[Purple Frog]

Regardless of what happens getting it out, you will need to install a good quality thread insert back in before re-assembly,

[roadracer]

Oil and other fluids will boil off before they can get to the threads in most cases. Heating with propane is good as it won't fry the aluminum. The trick is to use wax. Home Depot has it in the Racing Department (round wax ring used for toilet bowl installation as a gasket between the bowl and the floor) Heat up the part and then apply the wax as it will flow INTO the joint, not boil off, and will lube the threads. As mentioned above it may require some back and forth as the threads have galled. The wax will be useful later when drilling aluminum or making cuts with a carbide router. Don't tell the folks at H/D about this. If they find out how you are using the wax the price will go from $5 to $50. Good luck!

[BLS]

Oil and other fluids will boil off before they can get to the threads in most cases. Heating with propane is good as it won't fry the aluminum. The trick is to use wax. Home Depot has it in the Racing Department (round wax ring used for toilet bowl installation as a gasket between the bowl and the floor) Heat up the part and then apply the wax as it will flow INTO the joint, not boil off, and will lube the threads. As mentioned above it may require some back and forth as the threads have galled. The wax will be useful later when drilling aluminum or making cuts with a carbide router. Don't tell the folks at H/D about this. If they find out how you are using the wax the price will go from $5 to $50. Good luck!

That's a new one for me. Thanks!

[Hawke]

That's a new one for me. Thanks!

Or you can use a candle. It works fine.