Can anyone help with a “Torsen/Gleason” type LSD?

[EricP]

This is from a gearbox that came with our ‘63 Mini Cooper S. It’s apparently a Torsen Gleason limited slip differential. My dad wants to bolt it in a go. That makes me nervous. Some questions:

Note in one of the pics below the case has holes machined in it where part of the gears are visible. It appears to me that the gears are cutting in to the case slightly (the arrow points to a spot with gear removed that looks thin to me). Does this look suspect to anyone or is this “normal”?

What does one look for in terms of wear or problems?

I’m yet to find any sort of parts diagram or manual.

[R. Pare]

This is a Quaiff type differential, not a real Torsen ( Gleason didn't purchase the design rights until sometime in the late '70's/early '80's, and didn't come out with the Torsen 2, which is the same sort of design as the Quaiff, until the '90's). The small side gears are actually located by the tips of their teeth in those pockets ( and that rubbing is what gives the diff a very small amount of locking action), so wear in the pockets would be normal.

The end wear is also normal - the gears do thrust sideways some under load.

I would suspect that this diff is near or at the end of it's useful life. Repairs MIGHT be possible, but that is a real big maybe - plasma spraying and remachining of the ends of the pockets may be possible, but I wouldn't count on it.

( I used to be the real Torsen racing distributor in the late 80's/early '90's, so I'm quite familiar with them. We (ICP) also built our own housings for the Indy cars, Indy Lites, F. Atlantics, and even the MK8/9 for a couple years, using Gleason rebuild kits for the gears. )

[Rick Iverson]

Repairs MIGHT be possible, but that is a real big maybe - plasma spraying and remachining of the ends of the pockets may be possible, but I wouldn't count on it.

RP;

Can this be done on CW&Ps?

V/r

Iverson

[EricP]

The knowledge here is unreal.

Rick, via email Richard also noted, in case it relates:

“The worn ends of the pockets possibly could be remachined back a bit and a needle roller bearing thrust washer be put in to renew the surface. The ends of the gears would also need to be refaced and polished to make them give good contact.”

[R. Pare]

RP;

Can this be done on CW&Ps?

V/r

Iverson

Well...... almost anything is possible, but that would be something I wouldn't want to try!

I've actually welded up some pits in an old diff pinion and reground by hand back to smooth, and it actually lasted a couple more years before pitting again. Also welded in a couple new teeth in a bulldozer ring gear, reshaped by hand, and the owner got another 500+ hours out of it before he sold it!

Not something that I would normally consider, but sometimes desperation coupled with a lack of money ( or lack of replacement parts) will get you to do all sorts of crazy stuff.

[Rick Iverson]

Well...... almost anything is possible........

RP;

Having said that, can CW&Ps be reground? Shims are used to set the clearances, so a few thousands on a regrind shouldn’t be a problem, right?

V/r

Iverson

[R. Pare]

Hmmm... Not an expert here at all,but I would suspect that even just a couple thou' off of the surfaces would screw up the backlash because of the difference in spacing between the teeth. The big problem would be finding someone who could do it correctly, and most likely, as a one-off, it would cost more than buying a new R&P.

Are you thinking about a set that is showing wear, but not pitting?

[Rick Iverson]

Are you thinking about a set that is showing wear, but not pitting?

They are pitted.

[R. Pare]

Not much of anything you can do to resurrect it that I would recommend.