Machining
Gents;
Assuming I can locate a distributor gear for my Titan pump, I’ll have two issues to address as I understand it:
- The gear will need a couple thousands removed to fit the shaft;
- Hole cross drilled for the pin.
First and foremost, is there a possibility a GOOD machinist can precisely duplicate the gear hole to match the existing hole in the rotor shaft.
If not, can a new hole through the gear and shaft be drilled 90 degrees from the existing hole in the shaft.
V/r
Iverson
A really good machinist can do anything (including making the necessary gear). However to understand how difficult the tasks you identified are, I have some questions:Originally Posted by Rick Iverson
- Is the existing hole for the pin centered on the shaft, or offset to one side?
- Is the pin located within the gear teeth section, or is it offset to one side of the gears?
- If centered and in the gears, is the number of teeth on the gear even or odd? If there are an even number of theth, this may allow milling through the teeth, or just in the valley, but an odd number would be more challenging.
- What is the pin diameter?
Feel free to provide a thousand words, or a picture.
I'm curious as to why you think you'll need to have a distributor drive gear machined if you know what kind of pump you've got.
If you know you've got a Titan pump for FF, wouldn't you be able to get what you need straight from Titan?
Titan–Ford Oil Pumps (page 3)
- Is the existing hole for the pin centered on the shaft, or offset to one side? Appears to be centered
- Is the pin located within the gear teeth section, or is it offset to one side of the gears? On the collar
- What is the pin diameter? 0.183”
V/r
Iverson
Rick
Have you talked to BAT? They have scroll gears for pumps.
941 355 0005
I have, and they have none
I have spoken with them, and the gears are undrilled as well. And the postage is 25 BPS. If I can find a skilled machinist to exactly duplicate the hole in a distributor gear, the savings will be significantly reduced
Interesting. My pumps have all had roll pins installed. Agree a competent machine shop can do the job. The pin is simply for insurance. The shrink fit holds gear in place and transmits the torque. I would not cross drill the shaft with another hole at the same location though.- Is the existing hole for the pin centered on the shaft, or offset to one side? Appears to be centered
- Is the pin located within the gear teeth section, or is it offset to one side of the gears? On the collar
- What is the pin diameter? 0.183”
V/r
Iverson
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
A Plan B
How about getting the present gear and shaft thru hole interference reamed to accept a 3/16 (0.1875) dia pin and glue (Loctite) place for added security OR use the roll pin which by nature is an interference fit anyway. Key is to have both holes in line. That way you use the existing holes.
Tuck
Not unless they are a gear cutting house, and have the correct hob. Even with that, expect a single gear to cost many hundreds of dollars to be copied and heat treated correctly.
Best to ream the holes to another size and use a roll pin to secure. OR, if the next size up is too big and weakens the shaft too much, ream to whatever size evens the holes out, and have a machinist turn/grind down a hard pin to match, or make one from scratch ( and flame harden/quench).
Fellas;
I was quite vague in my initial description. My bad!
On the opposite side on the drive gear as pictured, a couple of teeth are chipped. And for that reason, I am replacing the gear. I removed the pin, and will heat or press the gear off the shaft when I get a handle on everything.
I agree, cross drilling the gear/shaft 90 degrees in the direction of rotation is probably a bad idea. I just need the hole on the new gear duplicated, and as I understand, the shaft hole reamed a bit.
This pump is in descent shape, and it would be a shame to trash it in the absence of some engineering and machining. If I can get the the machining done, I surmise heating the gear in an oven, placing shaft in dry ice, then slide the gear on and align with an awl until secure. Thoughts?
V/r
Iverson
Rick,
I may have the gear you need, I'll confirm on Monday. It is on my desk at my office being used as a paper weight/conversation piece. If you PM me the dimensions, I'll verify before sending it off.
Steve
Distributor and oil pump gears are different sizes. About 5 thou. And if you try to push, the wrong gear will split. How do I know?
Nonetheless, it's easy to drill the hole if you use a special shaft drilling jig.
Gents;
An Apex member has the real deal for me, pre-drilled to the correct dimensions.
Now to sweat it on. What temperature should I heat the oven?
V/r
Iverson
Maybe I'm way off, but .183" dia. sounds like the small end of a 3/16" taper pin.
Glenn
What's the issue with the broken pins?
ON VW engines the cam and distributor drive gears are shrunk on the end of the crank, the was we put them on is to set them on the vise, heat them with a bern zo matiic torch, pick them up with a rag and drop them on. Just make sure to heat all around so you don't distort it.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote