Fraser Sports Racer R1 swap B-Modified

[FlatBlack]

Hello everyone!

My name is Mat and I live in Central Texas. I am an Autocrosser, but I also like working on cars/motorcycles, etc. I've got an LS1 swapped S13 coupe and I am co-driving a 1974 260Z in F-Prepared this year. I have been racing a C5 Corvette in B-Street for the last two years, but I sold the Corvette recently.

Recently picked up a Fraser Sports Racer from up north (Chicago). I don't know too much about it, but it is a Lotus 7/Caterham type chassis with a De Dion rear suspsion. It was originally built with a Toyota 4AGE, but the PO swapped in a 2004 YZF-R1 drivetrain. The engine started knocking after a track day, and he sold it to me. I replaced the engine and have been able to drive it at two autocrosses so far this year. It is really fast and entertaining to drive, but it has some very old SM7 tires so it's not very grippy.

It will need some re-working to be setup well for autocross, which is why I'm here - to learn as much as I can.

The car was built in 1992 by Fraser, who is still around! The car came with some cool documentation (emails, etc). I'll try to put together a history of the car sometime. It had a couple of really cool liveries and I'm sort of mad that someone decided to make it Ronald MacDonald colors.

Recent pics:

20190316_085153 by Mat B, on Flickr

20190316_085114 by Mat B, on Flickr

Here's an old pic:

Fraser Le Mans leads by Mat B, on Flickr

[Marty Nygard]

OK, welcome to the crowd.
I have little experience in autocross but have done a few bike engine race cars. Without seeing a few body off pictures, there is not much any of us can say. My only three comments are:
- That roll bar wart/extension looks stupid and is probably not legal for anything in SCCA. Unless you are tall, you should consider modifying it.
- Autocross, especially BM, tends to reward download. Consider more wings! I used to build my own foam core with carbon skinned wings (hint, put each end on a brick and stand on it--it should not deflect). Depending on your finances, it may be better to buy from someone who knows autocross aero.
- Finally, go out and drive. Don't worry about the aging tires; someone will always try to sell you new ones.
Good luck and have fun.
Marty

[Lynn]

Marty is correct. The roll bar is definitely not legal for BM. Specs and drawings for a legal roll bar can be found in both the Solo Rulebook and the General Completion Rules for road racing. If you were to go to a National event, you would fail tech inspection.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. It is an interesting car.

[CM/FFdriver]

In less you all ready fit under the original roll bar?

Lynn, Marty would this be correct?

Or would he have to rebuild the original because they welded that extra hoop.

Ben

[Lynn]

I don’t know if the extension can just be cut off. I did see a video posted on the GRM website where whoever was in the car was well below the original bar. And, it sounds wonderful.

[FlatBlack]

I don’t know if the extension can just be cut off. I did see a video posted on the GRM website where whoever was in the car was well below the original bar. And, it sounds wonderful.

It DOES sound wonderful.

I'm 5'3" so... lol.

Removal of the extension is no problem, but it's been on the car since the late 90s (see the last picture of my original post)

PO was 6'1" (shown below):

25416304898_e517f3979e_o by Mat B, on Flickr

[Lynn]

I see that the roll bar is bolt on. What does it bolt to? Removable roll bars must be as strong as welded roll bars.

[BTennessen]

This is especially true if you take it to the track but I'd do this for autocross as well. When in a car the R1 engine tends to slosh the oil in turns which can lead to oil starvation and engine failure. I'd guess this is what happened to the PO, one long sweeper can kill it.

You'll want to run a baffle like this one - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-R1-S...4/113671902434
He also sends instructions on how much oil to add to overfill to the correct level.

Just overfilling, I can PM you the instructions or post them here, will help for autocross but ideally add the baffle. You'll also want to set up a catch can and replace any oil blown out during the day.

Great looking car

[FlatBlack]

I see that the roll bar is bolt on. What does it bolt to? Removable roll bars must be as strong as welded roll bars.

It bolts directly to the chassis and sandwhiches the body on. I can take more pictures later. It's kind of a pain to remove so I wouldn't mind re-working it with removal/installation in mind. I need to go read the GCR for the Sports Racer roll cage rules.

This is especially true if you take it to the track but I'd do this for autocross as well. When in a car the R1 engine tends to slosh the oil in turns which can lead to oil starvation and engine failure. I'd guess this is what happened to the PO, one long sweeper can kill it.

You'll want to run a baffle like this one - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-R1-S...4/113671902434
He also sends instructions on how much oil to add to overfill to the correct level.

Just overfilling, I can PM you the instructions or post them here, will help for autocross but ideally add the baffle. You'll also want to set up a catch can and replace any oil blown out during the day.

Great looking car

Already have the plate, actually - had to transfer it over when I was doing the engine swap. It's got a catch can too, but I haven't emptied it out yet since I have a total of 8 runs on the car so far. I'd be happy to hear your method of overfilling the oil, thanks!

The PO converted the stock sandwhich adapter to AN lines to use the 4AGE's side mounted oil cooler (It's behind the silver vent on the driver's side). He said a line came off on track, which is probably what caused the knock. After talking to some other Autocross folks, they convinced me to use the OEM Yamaha coolant/oil cooler sandwich plate instead of the air-to-air cooler, so I went back to the stock setup.



I set up my GoPro to monitor the oil pressure during my Autocross runs and I was a consistent 60 PSI+ on course.

[Josh R.]

Hey this is the Jabaay car!

[Daryl DeArman]

Mat,

You have a PM.

[FlatBlack]

Hey this is the Jabaay car!

It is!

Mat, You have a PM.

Got it

[BTennessen]

Already have the plate, actually - had to transfer it over when I was doing the engine swap. It's got a catch can too, but I haven't emptied it out yet since I have a total of 8 runs on the car so far. I'd be happy to hear your method of overfilling the oil, thanks!

Filling instructions from the baffle manual below:

1 - Refill with oil as per the manual so once the engine has been running and stopped, the level settle to the original glass level as per the manual.
2 - Run the engine at 3-4000rpm and note how much the level drops in the sight glass. Add oil in 100ml increments so when the engine is revving, the level is at the top of the sight glass. This is the initial overfill.
3 - Oce you have determined this level, then add a further 350ml (500ml MAX). This is the secondary overfill. After a brief session, the engine will find its own level by throwing the excess into the catch tank. Measure how much as been expelled for future oil fills. After every subsequent session you must check the catch tank and replace an equal amount of oil back into the engine.
Combating the oil surge is a combination of baffling & overfilling. One won't work without the other. As a general rule, you cannot have too much oil in the engine (within reason)

I discovered the oil issue the day after I replaced the oil pan on mine, caught the little nub that sticks down on the edge of the trailer. Car is currently getting a cage but I'll be dropping the pan again and installing the baffle as soon as it's home.

[RussMcB]

I'd be tempted to make it look like the McDonald's car in that picture and take it vintage racing. It's cool, unique, and surely a blast to drive. You'd have young kids stopping in your pits all day long (probably asking for fries. :-)

Oh. just realized yours is the blue car in the picture. Never mind...