Base/Clearcoat vs Single Stage Paint

[Bob Coury]

My first FF's years ago were painted with single stage-no issues. Fast forward to 2007 and being out of the game for a while, I chose basecoat /clearcoat. Then realized afterwards that you could not spray a just a repaired area-you have to repaint the entire panel. In our case the panels are small and removable-so usually not a big deal.

What are you all using these days?

[Earley Motorsports]

Single stage if possible. Way easier to spot in. The clear can be blended if you are careful soaking in the edge of the dry spray but as you say, they are normally small panels. The problem is doing that though is you may lose those on off decals which you can't get anymore. Single stage is easy to dab a chip too with a brush.

[Purple Frog]

Single stage for race cars. YMMV

[Farrout48]

I have been using the one part Interlux Brightside Marine Enamel from West Marine. Am able to roll it on since it flows and levels extremely well. Easy to use this way as I do not have a paint booth. Rubber and other marks clean off easily. The lower parts of the frontal areas of my WF1 do experience some chips from the sand, rubber, rocks, oildry, etc but can be touched up with a small brush.

[Eric Little]

https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...790-New-Livery

Car is all done with single stage. The helmet is the same single stage color coat with a clear that has pearl in it to make it look different.

I like the single stage as you can run it a bit thick (i.e. more heavy coats) to be more capable of handling the constant sand blasting these cars get. Also as noted, it is much easier to fix/blend where needed (except the helmet... blending pearl is an art form that I do not posses).

Good luck.

Eric Little

[reidhazelton]

With modern automotive paint, single stage v. 2-stage is really a matter of what's easier for you.

All things equal, there is no difference in durability or longevity. For example, PPG Concept (single phase) is the same thing for the most part as the DCU2021 clear - it just has the pigment in the clear. Both are urathanes, both last and hold up just as well. Speaking to the quality automotive paint lines, you'll likely find the price is close between single and 2-stage since single-stage is a very low driver for sales. For example, you're going to pay 3x or 4x for an acrylic enamel than a urethane 2-stage.

If you are using the top coat to hid poor bodywork, you'll be better off spending $50 on more high-build primer and doing it right than spending $200 on more paint whaling it on to cover things up.

Whatever you do choose, be sure to use a catalyzed or activated top coat. Without that, you're just using a glorified spray can and any solvents or fluids will melt it right off.

As for touch-ups, you can touch-up 2-stage with single stage - that's what most people and dealerships do anyway.

Repairs, repaints, and blends will be much easier with 2-stage. Metallic color match will also be easier. You don't have to clear the whole panel either. It's easier, but clears are blended all the time with just about any collision repair. It's just using the same clear, over reduced with a blending reducer to burn the edge down. Buff, and done. It takes a bit more effort with single stage and you'll likely see a small halo around the blend.

If you are doing multiple colors, you'll want to use 2-stage or you'll be there for a month waiting a week between single stage colors to dry so you tape it off.

As it pertains to race cars, you'll want to be aware of the primer and paint thickness. Aside from the added weight, the thicker it is the more heat it retains, particularly the primer, and will blister or fade quicker.

[Steve Demeter]

I am with PF.

A really pretty very hard worked at paint job just gets sandblasted anyway. IMHO sand it smooth and then one step. Repaint or touch up at your discretion.

[RussMcB]

I am with PF.

A really pretty very hard worked at paint job just gets sandblasted anyway. IMHO sand it smooth and then one step. Repaint or touch up at your discretion.

Agreed, although you can sort of protect it with helicopter tape on the forward edges. I think they have some decent film for that nowadays.