Crossle 45F Half Shaft Removal??

[RokonMan]

Hello,

I'm starting the removal of my MK9 and have run into a snag. It seems as though the cap overing the inside CV joint would just slide off but I tried a hand pry bar now afraid of damaging the rim of the cap. Any tricks here to remove the shaft from the trans? Do I use the weight of the carrier to pull out? I have all the links, shock, calipers undone and ready to swing it away but a little stuck here (pun intended) Thanks in advance.

Todd Buttrick

[Steve Demeter]

The bolts fit very snug in the CV and any pull other than straight off tends to bind them. Also, the boot quite often is stuck to the OD of the CV so gentle prying is sometimes called for..

[BorkRacing]

RTV is often used too between the parts to keep bearing grease from being flung on the rotor.

[RokonMan]

Thanks Robby and Steve. Got it done. Took a 5/8 open end spanner with the open end tooth under the lip of the cap and leveraged the head of the spanner against the inside unfinished surface of the rotor and just worked it around. Now for the starter.

Todd

[RokonMan]

hmmmm. Do I really NEED to take out the starter to remove the trans?

[BorkRacing]

hmmmm. Do I really NEED to take out the starter to remove the trans?

It's only 2 bolts...lol

[beachguy12]

Presuming its like my 32 just to pull the gearbox, no. If your removing the bell housing to get to the clutch, yes.

[RokonMan]

Thanks. I had just R&R'd the starter between races last weekend so I got that down now. Reaching the bottom bolt and hot terminal was a PITAS.

[RokonMan]

Well there's no way this trans is coming out. The trans case won't clear the top and bottom cross members so looks like I'll be pulling the engine forward and out. drat!

[BorkRacing]

What if you separate the gear box from the bell housing, tilt it down until it clears on top? I just looked at mine and it would seem to clear.

Robby

[RokonMan]

Thanks Robby. I'll take another look and snap some pics later this morning. It would be really helpful to know how the engine and trans were installed back in Holywood. The only process I can think of is to have installed the trans first through the bottom of the chassis, move it to one side and then the other to install the rotors, bolt it up to the frame and then install the engine from top and then belly pan.

[BorkRacing]

Thanks Robby. I'll take another look and snap some pics later this morning. It would be really helpful to know how the engine and trans were installed back in Holywood. The only process I can think of is to have installed the trans first through the bottom of the chassis, move it to one side and then the other to install the rotors, bolt it up to the frame and then install the engine from top and then belly pan.

Pretty much, Original design allowed easier engine removal over gearbox replacement as this is the norm. Over the years many cars had a removable frame member in tha back installed to allow the motor and gearbox to go in as a single unit or as in your case just remove the hewland.

Why are you removing the gearbox? Sent you a pm

Rob

[RokonMan]

The car has an internal Saab type clutch slave that needs r&r. I replaced the master at the track but still getting soft/no clutch after operating temps. Master fluid level remains high and not leaking fluid anywhere but the fluid is turning dark. Consensus is that the seals are failing in the slave causing the discoloration. Makes sense but never personally dealt with this type of slave. We shall see!

Todd

Pretty much, Original design allowed easier engine removal over gearbox replacement as this is the norm. Over the years many cars had a removable frame member in tha back installed to allow the motor and gearbox to go in as a single unit or as in your case just remove the hewland.

Why are you removing the gearbox? Sent you a pm

Rob