Formula Car Advice

[no-cones]

I am currently autocrossing a CM solo vee with limited success but am thinking it might be time to change cars and class. Before I do anything too stupid, I thought I would get some input from fellow cone chasers. The Formula Mazda and the water cooled Super Vee, which would both run in BM, are the two I am considering. I would appreciate this groups opinions and suggestions. Thank you,Nocones

[S Lathrop]

What FSV are you looking at?

I have built and races FSVs at the pro level, both air cooled and water cooled. My experience with FM has only been as an engineer for drivers who have built their driving skills in FM before moving up to the class I was engineering.

Go with the FSV.

[Lynn]

If you think you are uncompetitive now, just wait until you try those cars in BM. You will need to spend $$$$$ on aero to come close the sports racers and even then they will probably have a better power to weight ratio. If you really want to go to BM you might also consider an older FC.

Now, having said that I would like to see Greg Scharnberg's Ralt on course again.

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...ational-Winner

[no-cones]

Thank you. Being as old as dirt, I must be realistic. The thought of actually being competitive at a national level at my age is not even as issue. However, I am at the point I want a change and get something that could also be run on the track. Not road raced just soloed.
lynn, why FC? I had not even considered that.

[Lynn]

FC's have wings and are probably the least expensive route into BM.

Edit: actually the RT-5 I posted above is probably the cheapest way into BM. It is already geared for autocross. An FC would need a fixed lay shaft first gear and the appropriate second, third and fourth gears.

[Purple Frog]

I read your post with some interest.
I was wondering what you meant by 'limited success"?

Is it that you are not winning your class?
Or just struggling with the car in terms of handling, acceleration, etc. ?

In the early 70's I quickly discovered that a stock FV was not fun for me in the autocross environment.
Not saying it wouldn't be fun for others. Just not for me.

I was not concerned about class trophies. I just wanted to go faster.
I dreamed of having a Caldwell D9 FF.
But that $3,000 purchase price in 1973 was way beyond my means.

So... I dropped a hot rodded VW engine in the chassis, and installed FF tires.
A bit more HP than a FST.
Built the engine with a wide torque band.
Even added some crude aero bits.
Went out and started having a blast.
Wheel spinning 2nd gear starts, grunt out of the corners. Yee haw!
Always had to run in the unlimited class, but... so what.
Won about 25 FTDs in a two year period.

Now this plan may not be yours. If your goal is to win at the SCCA national championships in Nebraska this plan won't work.
SCCA has clearly defined classes, and the machines in those top classes are very specialized and expensive.

But, if you just want to have fun a local events in Florida, it might be a inexpensive direction to take without having to buy an expensive new (to you) car. And you could quickly return it to FV form.

And, OBTW, FST is a legal SCCA road racing class.

As always, just my opinion and YMMV.

[killerken53]

My guess is, by referring to it as a SoloVee, the car is probably already built beyond the Formula Vee rule set. The SoloVee rules already allow for large tires, and engines up to 1915cc with a single carb. If moving up a class,you should decide if you want to optimise a car for solo, or run a car in RR trim.

Bench racing being fun, I keep thinking about a Subaru powered SV. Combine the low CG with a reliable water cooled engine. Might end up being an AM car.

As always, it is cheaper and easier to buy a car than build one.

[-pru-]

How about remaining in the same class (CM) with a FF? For the same money you will spend on a FM or FSV, you can have a very competitive FF in CM trim. Ping me if you're interested as I know of at least one car ('88 Reynard FF) that is prepared for CM and is likely up for sale.

[no-cones]

Thank you, Pru. An idea really worth considering.

[Jim Garry]

I was going to suggest the same thing. There are dozens of competitive FFs for the class at reasonable prices.

As for whether or not you are competitive as a driver, you'll never know if you drive a back marker car, which is what you are suggesting for yourself in BMod.

Get a decent FF. You'll be glad you did.

[Gary Godula]

Have Steve and Brent put their Reynard up for sale yet?

[-pru-]

Have Steve and Brent put their Reynard up for sale yet?

Gary,

I consider it a "soft sale"; that is, no formal ad but Brent has mentioned to me several times that the car is available if someone is interested.

Take care,

[TedV]

How close are you to James Lee there in Florida for Formula F car prep? There are probably a few "soft sale" CM FF cars around. Life has a way of turning fun cars into garage queens. I know where a great CFF car is sitting

The Subaru powered SV might be able to be called a Formula Super and still stay in BM.

The cheapest most stupid speed is a 125 shifter kart in KM. Your medical bills might go up as your body is the suspension and a good part of karts handling. Leatt karting neck brace is worth the money.

[no-cones]

I live in Melbourne. Not sure where James lee is.

[Purple Frog]

James Lee is in South Miami.

[BURKY]

Norman fucchini that works for James has two Lola 440's for sale that run autocross. One with a turbo Pinto, and one with a Kent.

I'll pm his contact info.

Turbo Lola. https://youtu.be/I1Od-baL18g

[no-cones]

Burlky, thank you.

[JoeE]

Hi guys new here but just purchased a VW powered FF for autocross. Mine has sat for a while and I should get new rubber. I would like as soft as necessary. What tires should I purchase? I am ok with them wearing out in a season or so. In PA NJ I will get about 10 events in and 6 to 8 runs an event season.

Do I pay for 225/13/A7s or are fresh spec tires good enough. I had been competing (for fun) in a Factory Five roadster in XP with Hoosiers.

[TeamFRD]

JoeE, are you saying you bought a SoloVee?
For tires, determine your wheel widths and diameter needed. Check on eBay and with JB racing tires for used bias ply slicks.. You'll want Hoosier compound R25. A7s are radials which have different setup.

[JoeE]

JoeE, are you saying you bought a SoloVee?
For tires, determine your wheel widths and diameter needed. Check on eBay and with JB racing tires for used bias ply slicks.. You'll want Hoosier compound R25. A7s are radials which have different setup.

I bought a Banshee 1600, I checked with JB and he only has hard tires. I think I am going to get these for my first season as a start, good choice?

975-4 USDRRT HOOSIER internediates, 20.5-7.0-13 & 22.0-9.0-13 R25 grooved

[R. Pare]

Have Steve and Brent put their Reynard up for sale yet?

Brent has had the car modified so that he fits better and can shift it easier, so, for the moment, he plans on running at least some this summer. He also bought a much nicer truck for towing with.

[TeamFRD]

, 20.5-7.0-13 & 22.0-9.0-13 R25 grooved

Sorry about the thread highjack a bit --- It looks like those are meant to use Formula F (FF) tires - my assumption. Meaning that the wheels are likely 13 x 5.5" and the rears tires are called canitlevers because they are 8" wide on a 5.5 wheel. The 22/9/13 will not fit. I'm told 22/8 will fit. 20.5/7 is the correct size for the front. I've bought from USDRRT in the past, last year.

[ I dont see any websites for Banshee. I saw some discussion in 2010 and an Apexspeed ad from February for a Banshee in AZ. ]
I'll guess that for Solo it will be classed in BMod. Needs to be under 1605cc (?) and weigh at least 1110#. Start a thread here for your project. Looks fun!!!