When I run here in the San Diego/LA area, and the weather is extra warm, I get my oil temp up pretty high. I was thinking I could set up an oil cooler with a bipass valve(or 2) for when I don't need it. Anyone tried this, or have any opinions?
Mark
When I run here in the San Diego/LA area, and the weather is extra warm, I get my oil temp up pretty high. I was thinking I could set up an oil cooler with a bipass valve(or 2) for when I don't need it. Anyone tried this, or have any opinions?
Mark
1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser
My sensor is at the outlet from the bottom of the oil reservoir and occasionally it gets up to 210, but this is usually accompanied by high water temp and I can't do anything about that except add a fan and that blocks the air flow when not turned on. I got a private message about an oil thermostat that is fully open at 180 which seems good to me. What do road racers do?
Mark
1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser
Hello Mark,
Save weight and your money. 210F is normal, actually ideal! I would not be concerned until oil temp was over 250. Cold oil costs you HP from parasitic losses. Art Smith recommends heating your oil above 190 before you send the car on track. You would need a fan on the oil cooler for it do do much good anyway. That's more weight, another failure point and complexity.
An oil cooler is just another point of possible failure or leak. Without an oil cooler in the Crossle or Zink, my data shows 225 at its highest during a 40 minute race on a 110F day.
As another autocrosser/racer Neil Roberts said, "If it's not on the car, it can't break."
Regards,
Dan
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
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