Stohr F1000 - rebuild pics

[Stan Clayton]

Awesome latest photo, Arax! I'm totally stealing that for the Stohr Cars FB page...

[99sh]

^

Some delayed updates. My steering rack had some slop in the U-joint. Gave Stan a call and replaced the entire unit with a beefier universal and got a new (shiny) Woodword rack while I was in there. The old Titan rack had a rough spot in one section. This new unit steers itself. So smooth!

We had to drill new holes in the existing bracket to accommodate the hole pattern. Also had to add standoff spacers to clear the steering tie-rod for proper alignment and clearance. Thanks again John for machining out those spacers in a jiffy and Kevin for your magic welds.

Notice how the steering shaft mounts to the spindle. No longer uses a pinch bolt setup, but 2 set screws 90 deg apart.



Covers still fit!



Next up was the pedal box. I wanted to remove some flex from that area. Talking to Kevin & Stan, there was no easy way to implement this without dropping the floor and more parts. We were initially trying to add side plates like those on the WF1, but deferred the idea.

I had already purchased a new Tilton pedal box assy to replace the somewhat flimsy stock piece. The Tilton unit has much nicer adjustability with set screws to set the pedal stops and position. I ended up mounting the Tilton the same way as the stock unit, but used larger bolts. It does feel somewhat sturdier. If anything, the adjustability of the pedal pads and set screws make it worth it. I can adjust the pedal horizontally & vertically in 3 positions and set an angle to them as well.





And last, the most important mod of all - a clock!

[99sh]

A couple last round of parts and done for now...


Upgraded voltage regulator to what's called a MOSFET type. This one runs cooler and is much much more reliable. Given we don't have any accessories drawing power that a motorcycle does, the VR is working harder. They sell kits which include the VR and the 2 connectors for about $120. SHINDENGEN FH020AA is what you want (careful on fake ones out there)




I had ordered the BRD rear wing to mate with the diffuser. Parts just came in this past Thursday. The end plate requires some trimming to fit and shape, nothing difficult. The end plates look much smaller and lighter.



Lower plane



Brackets are nice and simple. Just one piece on each side, compared to the bulky & heavy 2-piece the original one had



Old bracket:



Old vs new


Off to paint and decals!

[99sh]

I ended up leaving the surface texture as-is without sanding and applying high-build primer.

[Jamesbe]

clock mod! I was thinking of that this weekend sitting on the grid waiting, wondering...

Also useful during race if you know how long it is and when it started.

[99sh]

Minor update. I picked up a MXL2 dash and a spare GSXR wiring harness. I wanted to clean up my wiring as much as possible and wrap everything up tidy.

First up, MXL dash. This is a pretty large piece compared to the XG unit it's replacing. Here it is just hovering in place.



There really is no easy way to mount it. There's a 1" square tubing in the rear which holds the steering bearings in place. I could drill and install a rivnut there, but felt that may compromise that structure.



I ended up modifying a 1" square rail mount boat bracket. This worked out very well. The bracket is made from hard (ABS?) plastic. I had to cut it in half to clear the connectors on the rear of the MXL. Best part is that I didnt have to drill any holes in the car's tubing.





Had to grind down the paddle shifter's a bit to clear the dash.



Mounted and ready for wiring.



Here's the wiring harness in work. I removed all the unneeded connectors and excess wires. Will be wrapping them up and adding the resistors where required to make it all work. I have some wires on order, should have it complete by the weekend.

[99sh]

The wiring is all done. I removed all the unused connectors, fuse box and relays which were built in the harness. I redid the wiring to bring out IGN power and FI on two main relays. The IGN power will also be used to tap a flatshifter into it.



I used some nice electrical 'tape' found on OEM cars. It's almost fabric like.





Wiring is ran down driver's right in a split braided wire loom.



Relays. The white connector on the bottom left next to the water reservoir is the ECU data terminal. I bought the mating connector and wired that directly to the MXL2. Doing so allows me to tap into the monitors available from the ECU for display rather than running more wires (e.g. RPM, gear). Wiring is simple and consists of two signals (K-line and GND); simply set the MXL2 to use SDS protocol.





And finally success!! I was lucky everything worked the first time without any hitch. The wiring diagram in the suzuki manual was well written enough to find all the pins needing ground or power to start.




I have 2 more things left on the list. Need to swap the motor and install a flatshifter expert system. If you guys have any tips on how you secured the shifter strain gauge, please share!

[99sh]

Moving on to detail items. The MXL2 comes with a smoky factory film on the screen to protect during installation. Before I peel this thing off, thought to myself I should install a screen protector of some sort to preserve the display. I decided on purchasing a roll of 3M Scotchgard Paint Protection Film (PPM). If it's tough enough for exterior use and maintains the clarity of the paint, it should work for a display just fine.

Found people selling 6"x60" rolls of this stuff for $20. BTW - the film is 8mills thick, pretty beefy.



Cut out a 8" long strip and ran it thru my cutting printer and out it comes:


Peeled off the OEM film, exposing the [shiny] screen for the first time/



The film requires a water/soap solution to prevent it from tacking on while placing it in position. 16-oz water to 4 drops of Johnson's baby shampoo.



A couple swipes of the squeegee and the soapy solution is squeezed out.

[S. Frebert]

Man this is an awesome thread!!

Always loved someones documented process throughout changes on the racecar!!!

And of course, you live all the way in California!!!

[Stan Clayton]

And of course, you live all the way in California!!!

Hey, there's a sign on the east side of Sacramento on I-80 that says the Maryland seashore is only 3303 miles ahead...

[S. Frebert]

Hey, there's a sign on the east side of Sacramento on I-80 that says the Maryland seashore is only 3303 miles ahead...

My job was talking about opening a facility up in California and all I could think about was getting paid to be there and race with everyone over there haha if it would be a couple year gig, it would get some SERIOUS thought!!!!!