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  1. #1
    Senior Member mstephenson51's Avatar
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    Default Easiest way to pull engine and/or gearbox??

    Hey all,

    I was thinking I would replace my weeping oil pan gasket this summer as well as the weeping diff side plates.

    Is it easier to pull the engine and gearbox out the top all together? or do I split them first?

    Tips and tricks are appreciated!

  2. #2
    Contributing Member
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    Default pull engine

    Quote Originally Posted by mstephenson51 View Post
    Hey all,

    I was thinking I would replace my weeping oil pan gasket this summer as well as the weeping diff side plates.

    Is it easier to pull the engine and gearbox out the top all together? or do I split them first?

    Tips and tricks are appreciated!

    To pull engine unbolt trans pull trans back till axle hit frame unbolt front engine mounts headers etc., and pull up out of frame .
    To Pull trans only unbolt trans unbolt axle pull trans back and up and out. Hope that helps Dwayne

  3. #3
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    Default

    Just to add: before you pull the gearbox - wedge a short 2x4 between the frame and the rear of the engine oil pan, to support the back of the engine and not stress the front engine mount/spider. Just gently wedge it under the tapered pan. It holds the engine in position. (& remember to remove it when you are done reinstalling the gearbox - )

    Also, in addition to new oil pan gaskets, check out Moses' new "oil pan brace kit" which spreads the load out to better seal the pan to engine gaskets. That seems to work well.

  4. #4
    Contributing Member sflaten's Avatar
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    Default

    the advice on 2x4 is valuable. Don't remove before trans gets installed or you will have issue getting it to align.

    if you are looking to reseal side plates, I think we can all relate. some of the nuts have tendency to loosen. I have heard it is a common issue. One method I have used seems to work well to keep the nuts tight and it even works on the CV bolts that tend to loosen.

    You need brake clean and a new Locktite blue tape. This is like a gel tape and it works well. clean the nuts and the studs with the brake clean, then make two wraps of the tape. Tighten like normal and it will harden and stay in place till you disturb (like trying to retorque). I have gone an entire season without needing to replace.

    The tape is available from Fastenal or Graingers for about $25/roll.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mstephenson51 View Post
    Hey all,

    I was thinking I would replace my weeping oil pan gasket this summer as well as the weeping diff side plates.

    Is it easier to pull the engine and gearbox out the top all together? or do I split them first?

    Tips and tricks are appreciated!
    How did it go for you? I'm chasing an oil leak but can't determine the source, I do see a drop of oil on two oil pan bolts, but the gasket area looks okay. Might make sense to change and add the brace kit. Thinking about pulling the motor this winter but want to make sure it doesn't turn into a bigger job than expected.

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  7. #6
    Contributing Member sflaten's Avatar
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    Default oil drip

    If you have a few drips show up, are you aware that the trans has a tendency to leak at the side cover on the left side? I have found that cleaning the studs and using a Locktite tape holds the nut in place for a full season. Otherwise I would need to check the nuts after every session.

    Tell me more about the pan brace. Is this like a internal reinforcement, or is it a metal frame on the outside?

  8. #7
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    It is a flat metal frame, precisely cut to fit around the edge of the oil pan, between the bolt heads and the pan. Then when you tighten the pan bolts it spreads out the load and provides a more even pressure all along the pan gasket, for a better seal.

    (Think of a flat metal frame about the size of the pan gasket, but it fits on the outside of the pan, so the bolts tighten it up against the pan. I think it needed longer bolts, but they come with the kit as I recall... Daryl installed it for me when he rebuilt the engine last time.)

    It is hard to judge exactly, but it has to provide a much better seal... And you know oil leaks are a pain in the .....


  9. #8
    Contributing Member sflaten's Avatar
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    Default thank

    Appreciate the info. I have the gaskets and was going to replace over winter. What you describe is kind of what I thought it might be a laser cut flange "washer".

  10. #9
    Senior Member mstephenson51's Avatar
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    Default

    Lots of good info, thanks gents.

    I haven't pulled my stuff apart yet. I did go and re-locktite all the bolts. Helped a little.

  11. #10
    Contributing Member sflaten's Avatar
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    If you are having issues with bolts loosening, I may have an answer,

    I tried just about everything in transmission side covers and CV bolts that tend to loosen.

    Tried Loctite blue tape. Available from Graingers, about $25/roll. It is like a gel tape in a roll like teflon tape. Clean the bolts well and the female threads with brake clean. bolts ran a whole season without loosening. aI would also suggest cleaning the face of the pan or whatever as well. Have found that a bit of the tape oozes under the not or bolt head and gives addition grip.

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