Slip Joint Clamp for Shift Linkage?

[Will Velkoff]

I'm wondering if anyone has or knows of a source for a U-bolt clamp type piece that is used on shift linkages. I want to bore and cut a slit in my shift rod and slip it over the solid rod it currently bolts to. Then I'll be able to rotate the whole linkage, and tighten it in place with the u-bolt clamp piece.

Currently my shift linkage has no adjustability side to side, all the joints are indexed with the rods to get the shifter in the right orientation. Due to the tight fit in the cockpit I need to have the ability to rotate the linkage to get the shifter in the right spot so my hand doesn't hit the body work when I'm in 3rd/4th gear.

I can always machine something, but it would be easier if there was something off the shelf. Thank you in advance

[stephen wilson]

I don't know about a Crossle, but my linkage adjustment is done with a threaded rod/jam nut at the shifter like this:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-te4njuxrNf...0/IMG_0044.JPG

Some have the adjuster in the shift rod, which may also be a "turnbuckle" style with a RH and LH threaded stud. Like this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cros...fngTxpuIXL3qM:

[Charlie Schmidt]

the threaded method above is very common

if you want to clamp it, look at shaft collars on McMaster they show some heavy duty split, clamping types

[S Lathrop]

I have used a 7/16 x 20 threaded connection in my shift shafts. I generally make it a part of the shaft, rearward of the shift lever. The head of a 7/16 bolt easily machines down to fit into the 5/8 diameter shafts I use. For the female end I turn down a coupling nut. I started doing this setup with the Zink Z10 and every car since. The locking is with a plane nut and split type lock washer.

This setup allows you to both rotate the shaft orientation relative to the lever but you have fore aft movement of the lever as well.as well.

[Rick Kirchner]

van diemen uses a slick split rod that goes alongside the engine and between the rear hoop and the support at the bellhousing. It allows for both fore/aft and rotational adjustment. I reversed it on my car so that the apex joint gets welded to a simple shaft, so that as you replace the joints you just need to weld them to a rod, and not to the expensive slip adjuster.

Don't have any handy pics but you could prowl the classifieds.

[problemchild]

the threaded method above is very common

if you want to clamp it, look at shaft collars on McMaster they show some heavy duty split, clamping types

I have used this method for this application previously. Quick, easy, and inexpensive.