I've never seen CV balls that were anything but polished. Maybe the dull ones made it through production w/o the final polishing step.
I've never seen CV balls that were anything but polished. Maybe the dull ones made it through production w/o the final polishing step.
Dave Weitzenhof
Hi all:
Thanks for all the info from all the posters above!
I found these instructions on the Pelican Parts site....
Regards,
James
Tiga FFA-77 s/n 38
fred short motor racing
"Turning money into noise for over 2/100 of a century"
Has anyone ever tried silicon nitride balls in their lobro CVs?
James
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stonebridge Sports & Classics ltd
15 Great Pasture Rd Danbury, CT. 06810 (203) 744-1120
www.cryosciencetechnologies.com
Cryogenic Processing · REM-ISF Processing · Race Prep & Driver Development
Assuming normal operating condition (within specification), the load of the rolling elements is transferred to the races by the oil film.... not metal to metal contact. The surface of the races flex under the load. The surface of the races have elastic properties. This constant flexing each time an element rolls by will eventually cause micro pitting (micro fractures) which is the grey look you notice with a worn bearing race.
Wear without metal to metal contact.
Brian
Many thanks to whoever posted the instructions on post 39 [I think] However, I'm missing a few details. Can anyone fill in the blanks?
Replacing CV joints
Cover splines with tape or sleeve, then slide boot over splines onto drive shaft. Pre lube with Rubber grease okay?
Remove sleeve
Install concave washer ???? Do we have these? need these? [Don't recall removing any] Source???
Press on CV joint.
1] Larger [outer] diameter of outer ring faces Driveshaft.
2] Make sure chamfer on hub splines is towards drive shaft
3] use 1 inch socket as drift in hydraulic press, and support hub from below also
4] Pre-lubricate splines? ???? if “yes”, with what ????
Install circlip [missing after crash] ????Source for these????
Pack joint from both sides with Valvoline synthetic CV jt grease, or Moog 3301 or RedLine cv jt grease
Thin smear of black RTV to seal CV joint faces to boot rim??? A memory from who knows where.
Torque bolts to 25 ft lb [I’ve been using 16 ftlb for years]
I haven't done this in decades,[ if ever,] so any tips / critiques will be appreciated
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
Hi all:
Here's the info I've collected:
113.517.279 CV Joint circlip
113.501.329 Type 1 Torque Distribution Washer For CV
113.501.327 Type 1 cone washer
25 ft/lbs from VW for Gr. 10.9 SHCS - outboard
A snippet from my half shaft drawing:
This 113.501.329 hardened washer keeps the SHCS from sinking into the soft boot flange & losing pre-load:
I also drill the heads for safety wire.
My $00.01.
Regards,
James
Tiga FFA-77 s/n 38
fred short motor racing
"Turning money into noise for over 2/100 of a century"
Many thanks. I don't recall having any conewashers when I disassembled the inner one. [I do recall hitting a wall when I disassembled the outer one, which entailed it's own "preload"] I'll have to find a source for them if formula cars need them. Thanks again.
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
Another point to consider that only applies where your CV joints use both a bolt AND a nut (i.e. they're not bolted into a threaded flange):
Use an 8mm bolt rather than a 5/16!
I found that using 8mm bolts in holds sized for 8mm bolts meant the components had less room to move and therefore stayed properly torqued.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)