Question re CV Joint Balls

[DaveW]

I've never seen CV balls that were anything but polished. Maybe the dull ones made it through production w/o the final polishing step.

[fshort]

Hi all:

Thanks for all the info from all the posters above!

I found these instructions on the Pelican Parts site....

Regards,
James

[Hardingfv32]

We like to REM-ISF treat CV'S for the ultimate in low friction.

How doe this reduce friction when the parts are separated by grease?

Brian

[JLind]

Has anyone ever tried silicon nitride balls in their lobro CVs?

James


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[stonebridge20]

How doe this reduce friction when the parts are separated by grease?

Brian

How do they wear out if the parts are separated by grease ?

[John Green]

I can’t believe it took this long for a balls joke!

Ahh, but it was worth the wait!

[Hardingfv32]

How do they wear out if the parts are separated by grease ?

Assuming normal operating condition (within specification), the load of the rolling elements is transferred to the races by the oil film.... not metal to metal contact. The surface of the races flex under the load. The surface of the races have elastic properties. This constant flexing each time an element rolls by will eventually cause micro pitting (micro fractures) which is the grey look you notice with a worn bearing race.

Wear without metal to metal contact.

Brian

[swiftdrivr]

Many thanks to whoever posted the instructions on post 39 [I think] However, I'm missing a few details. Can anyone fill in the blanks?

Replacing CV joints

Cover splines with tape or sleeve, then slide boot over splines onto drive shaft. Pre lube with Rubber grease okay?
Remove sleeve
Install concave washer ???? Do we have these? need these? [Don't recall removing any] Source???
Press on CV joint.
1] Larger [outer] diameter of outer ring faces Driveshaft.
2] Make sure chamfer on hub splines is towards drive shaft
3] use 1 inch socket as drift in hydraulic press, and support hub from below also
4] Pre-lubricate splines? ???? if “yes”, with what ????
Install circlip [missing after crash] ????Source for these????
Pack joint from both sides with Valvoline synthetic CV jt grease, or Moog 3301 or RedLine cv jt grease
Thin smear of black RTV to seal CV joint faces to boot rim??? A memory from who knows where.
Torque bolts to 25 ft lb [I’ve been using 16 ftlb for years]

I haven't done this in decades,[ if ever,] so any tips / critiques will be appreciated

[fshort]

Hi all:

Here's the info I've collected:

113.517.279 CV Joint circlip
113.501.329 Type 1 Torque Distribution Washer For CV
113.501.327 Type 1 cone washer

25 ft/lbs from VW for Gr. 10.9 SHCS - outboard

A snippet from my half shaft drawing:




This 113.501.329 hardened washer keeps the SHCS from sinking into the soft boot flange & losing pre-load:



I also drill the heads for safety wire.

My $00.01.

Regards,
James

[swiftdrivr]

Many thanks. I don't recall having any conewashers when I disassembled the inner one. [I do recall hitting a wall when I disassembled the outer one, which entailed it's own "preload"] I'll have to find a source for them if formula cars need them. Thanks again.

[alangbaker]

Another point to consider that only applies where your CV joints use both a bolt AND a nut (i.e. they're not bolted into a threaded flange):

Use an 8mm bolt rather than a 5/16!

I found that using 8mm bolts in holds sized for 8mm bolts meant the components had less room to move and therefore stayed properly torqued.

[DanW]

Another point to consider that only applies where your CV joints use both a bolt AND a nut (i.e. they're not bolted into a threaded flange):

Use an 8mm bolt rather than a 5/16!

I found that using 8mm bolts in holds sized for 8mm bolts meant the components had less room to move and therefore stayed properly torqued.

We also use the original VW tab washers on the CVs to prevent the bolts from rocking the CV boot flanges and loosening up the bolts.