Choices for spindle and hub

[JoeFin]

what recommendations do we have for spindle and hub assemblies. Haven't seen any threads on this subject.

[Stan Clayton]

Joe, we have complete assemblies in stock, as used on our FB and P1/2 cars. Our contact info is on our website: www.dauntlessracing.com. We are just off I-80 in Vacaville. Thanks, Stan

[S Lathrop]

You need to be a little more specific about what you are trying to do.

Do you want production car derived components or do you want race car specific parts.

If you are going with purpose build parts, then what material do you want for the spindles and what type of drive setup will you be using at the rear. I have used aluminum spindles front and rear for decades. Before that I used VW Dasher parts, similar to what Swift uses but a bit stronger. Recently, I have been looking at using Honda Civic parts on a new car project.

Stan's offer may be the best because you know what has been done with the parts he is offering.

[JoeFin]

I was leaning towards using spindles from a production car and making my own Al. hubs. Wouldn't have thought aluminum strong enough for spindles - but as I said I haven't seen any discussion on the subject.

Then again I pass by Stan every day on the way home from work. I certainly am interested

[S Lathrop]

I was leaning towards using spindles from a production car and making my own Al. hubs. Wouldn't have thought aluminum strong enough for spindles - but as I said I haven't seen any discussion on the subject.

Then again I pass by Stan every day on the way home from work. I certainly am interested

Aluminum is something like 1/3rd the strength of steel. The next problem is putting high loads into small areas of aluminum. You do that with steel "thrust rings" that spread the loads across a large enough aluminum surface.

Staying with production components simplifies things a ton. But there is the issue of weight.

The lightest setup I have seen were steel spindles that were machined with very thin walls and had large diameter roller bearings on the outside where the largest loads were imposed and much smaller ball bearings on the inside to take the thrust loads. The uprights were steel fabrications and were very light as well. I have made sheet steel uprights that are interchangeable with the aluminum ones I use now. The steel were a tiny bit lighter. But once I had a CNC mill, I went with billet aluminum because the machine will work for hours vs. me working for hours on end.

[JoeFin]

Still haven't made any progress on the Hubs and spindles. Looking at the double row ball bearings and it seems they have increased the OD. to compensate for Nonaxial loading against the lack of width.

This doesn't work out so well with the Johnyoungbloog Wheel's small I.D.

Starting to thing angular bearings would lend to a lighter more durable set up

Any thoughts

[S Lathrop]

I use 68mm OD, 48mmID and 15mm wide bearings at the front. I use 80mm, 50mm, and 16 mm at the rear. I have aluminum spindles. I use steel thrust rings between the spindles and the bearing. Otherwise the bearings will beat themselves into the flanges on the spindles. I have cars that have been racing for nearly 20 years with this setup. Works very well but you got to do it right.

The bearings are light section bearings. So they are not very heavy.

I am using a similar design on a hot rod truck where the bearings are large enough to run on the outside of a CV joint. The Spindle and CV joint are turned to the same diameter, and the bearings are pressed on the OD of the CV and the spindle. The inner bearing straddles the joint between the CV and the spindle. There is a steel bearing spacer that is the same ID as the bearings. I poached the idea from March.

[brypar]

We make our own from scratch, as seen on the build from Australia. We usually use a Motorsport derived press fit bearing into a billet 70 series upright. Can provide many more details but might not be what you're after.