Sorry but what way is up on the new bearing?
Sorry but what way is up on the new bearing?
Flat side toward the clutch
before I pull the oil pan, I was going to order the gasket kit to put it back together. But my question is why cork? I see there is a Ivey kit that is less money and rubber. Or why not just thick RTV? My fathers cars all had cork and they all weeped oil.
This pan is in pretty bad shape. It looks like it had #4 rod tossed into it at some rpm, but all the pans I have seen for sale are big $$$. And on this car they have RTVed both sides of the cork to stop some leaking. But due to the car sitting for a decade most of the oil had leaked out I would assume here.
Any ideas?
I sent a PM.....Bruce
Went to mount the rain wheel set and the fronts do not clear the calipers...
Do I have to buy new mid sections of the wheels or can I use spacers?
update photo.
It matters...
How severe is the interference?
Many calipers get filed down to allow wheel clearance. So, if it is just a tad of interference a little "touching up" with a side grinder might solve the issue.
Check offset of dry wheels. Compare that to the offset of the wet wheels. Sometimes spacers will work. Especially in true wet conditions. But in dry conditions they could throw off the setup by changing track, etc.
When using spacers one must be diligent when mounting wheels to make sure one gets true torque when tightening.
That car has LD20s on the front and I believe the rains were mounted on Compomotives. One way to get around it is to go back to LD19 front calipers. The only downside I found with LD19 fronts is that the pad wear rate is somewhat high, but there were no performance concerns.
Spacers
My Reynard had spacers for the front wheels. I ran them all the time, with slicks and rains. We had a Crossle that we converted from LD19 to LD20. We had to remove material from both the calipers and the back sides of the wheel centers to get clearance.
Clearance
I just fitted AP LD20's to my 86 Reynard with Compomotive wheels. I had to grind down the calipers and the excess material from the bolts that hold the wheels together.
I looked, but could not find any online.Originally Posted by SWMyers
I will try this first before I have some spacers made. I know the Compomotives are heaver, but coming from the tuner world they are super friking awesome looking! I mean true 3 piece wheels were around $3-6K.
Now I just got to get them to hold air.
Compomotives
Compomotives can be made to hold air. There are great threads on the subject in archives. DaveW has written up some good pointers.
It does take work. Disassembly. Cleaning. Reassembly with proper RTV. RTV painted on the joint inside rim after assembly.
Done correctly, it last for years.
Sometimes in a pinch, just painting the joint with RTV inside the rim of an assembled wheel will do the trick.
Usually you'll have to make your own wheel spacers. A piece of 1/4" Aluminum and a waterjet...
Not as wizzy looking, but sometimes assembling the wheels with the buttonheads on the inside will create enough clearance. YMMV
Wheel sealing thread
Dave Weitzenhof
Note to self: Dow 832 sealant
The reason I am mounting the rains is to move the car so I can dismount the 10 year old tires and get the red paint off the dry rims. The mounting holes for the tire mount/dismounter (yes harbor freight hand jobber) are under the front end of the car. Guess I will mount the drys and get to the rains first, lol.
Also a big thanks to Averill again. I sent in my gear carrier in to fix the shifter leak (instead of installing the Pegasus band-aid per his advice), and got back a much better fix. Now the shifter linkage does not wobble and puke gear oil anymore thanks to new bushings! I wonder how this thing even shifted (dont forget the rounded out hole in the mid link connection I have yet to fix)!
Now who's got some nice used Blackhawk Farm gears they have no reason to be holding on to,lol!
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 12.07.16 at 3:28 PM.
McMaster-Carr has Dow 832, also.
Dave Weitzenhof
So, early last month I ordered some switches from Skygeek. They said 3-5 days.
2 weeks later I contacted them and asked a status. They replied and said they were looking into it. 5 days later I receive and email with a tracking number that they shipped and I'd receive them tomorrow. Okay. So, nothing. I checked the tracking number and it said they had been delivered, someone in FL !
I re-contacted them. Apparently the wrong tracking info and mine hadn't shipped. Another week and another tracking#. They finally arrived a month after I ordered them.
So, I immediately looked at the switches. Correct part number per their website, but the switches were momentary. All the info on their website was dead wrong....
So, it's taken a few days and I got an RMA and just shipped them out. They didn't have what I was looking for....
I ordered from Allied in TX and received the correct parts in 3 days at a total cost of $5 more.
YMMV
McMaster has always been good. I got Dow 832 from them too.
Oh, well then. I guess I will delete them from my post. That sound unnecessarily complicated. Thanks for the heads up!
Clearance
Why didn't I think of reversing the buttonheads? Great suggestion!
crap. how close do these ratios need to be? I will be running at blackhawk. However the baseline chart lists 21/25 and I dont even see that anywhere. I wonder if that list is any good?
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 12.07.16 at 11:34 PM.
Gears
21:25 is in the Hewland manual so it was available. 23:27 is only very slightly higher.
What do the locals run? please post your gear sets for BHF...
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12876
yet another question... Why is there no draw bolt in a 4 speed and one on the 5 speed?
There should be a draw bolt in any MK8/9 series gearbox - no matter how many gears.
Except for the Reynard box, as has been pointed out below... Sorry about that, completely forgot about the bespoke case.
Gary
Last edited by Gary_T; 12.08.16 at 3:09 PM.
Gary Tholl
#24 BlurredVisionRacing
There's no draw bolt in the Reynard case. Its a specific case with MK9 innards. Keith would have a better description for the why. I just know they don't have them.
I don't think that is correct. You want the radiused side facing the clutch.
now I'll have to go look again. My rear clip is off the car right now. i could have just brain farted my response.
My DB1 is all apart so I was able to check. The Honda one is oriented the same as well.
my radiused side is facing the clutch as well. The difference between the front and back of my bearing is not nearly as dramatic as the one in his pics and that threw me off.
This build thread is not up to my normal potograpical standards. So let me try and correct this. Pics help me a ton when looking at others build threads so here are two.
Note that the top two don't touch. That is so the gear that is inside the case can do its thing to make into a revers direction. 1-3 are pretty close to what I need, but 4 is more suited for RA. I guess I will make a WTB post later when I recoup some funding.
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 12.10.16 at 10:54 AM. Reason: revers gear was in upside down
*puts flame suit on*
If you notice on the picture you will see that this inner race is lower than the top and is actually the only contact to the bench top. So as you spin the bearing that inner race does not move. However since is in lower than the top face is will not give any interference. Also the bottom side with the bearing numbers on it (the radius side) has the much thinner material. And with a audible test pushing on it and spinning it in this direction there is no noise. In the revers direction (radius facing clutch) the bearings make a unloaded rattle noise.
I doubt there is any clutch fingers that close to the middle but if there where I would expect some decent rubbing in the other direction, but since there is not I would thing it would work both directions. I just want my best face forward. (pun intended)
I've been 'recouping' funding for several decades now. Good luck with that
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
I don't believe that bearings are directional, it doesn't matter which way they spin.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
Not remembering my old MK9 setup, but to interface correctly with clutch-spring "fingers," you need a radiused surface to mate smoothly to the surface (angle) of the fingers no matter how far they are depressed. And that means a radiused surface towards the clutch.
Dave Weitzenhof
I've been replacing my throwout bearings in my Reynard since 1999.....the inner race that slides over the aluminum tube(that goes over the input), is the stationary part of that bearing. If you notice, if you put it on the other way, and loctite it on, nothing will spin. Hold the outer race and spin the flat race, and remember the outer must stay attached and stationary.....
Exactly.
Like Bruce stated the only thing that moves is the inner race. ALL of the outer bearing is independent of the inner race. So the fact that the inner race is lower means that it does not make contact to the fingers of the clutch, but on the other side it does peak out to keep the outside parts from touching the clutch forkish thing I cant remember what is called right now. Here look at this...
https://youtu.be/d4amawgILgQ
You can see in the "radius direction/up" the inner race does not move. That is because it would be pinned between the cylinder shaft and the fingers of the clutch. And in the radius/numbers side down you can see that it moves freely of the inner race. That is because the inner race props it up and off/away from the cylinder shaft to allow it to spin freely. Remember the cylinder shaft thingy has a shoulder that will contact the outer part of the throw out bearing.
I'm sure a nice radiused bearing would be perfect, but like I have been reminded many times before this car is 30 years old and I need to accept things.
To me it appears that the bearing you have is meant for a 3 fingered release, not diaphragm type. We used those on the big American car we used to run.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
uh oh...
searched to no avail; The new water pump has an extra outlet. Do I plug it or use it some how?
Plug it. It is for a heater hose on the street cars this engine was used in.
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