Where does the fm fall in comparison to FA, F1000, FC?

[Dmitri]

I'm currently running a fm in Midwestern Council where it ends up classing as a FA. There's a huge variety of cars in the "big formula" run group. I'm curious, where is the fm supposed to fall compared to cars such as the carbir ds3, or a spreads f1000 etc. It's obviously way more car than any of the formula Ford variations... I'm curious where the cars with equivalent drivers "should" end up.

[Purple Frog]

Normally at a "Majors" type race in dry weather the fastest cars in each class would sort out as such:

FA
FB (close behind)
FC
FM and FE
FF
FST
FV

[FrankRizzo]

HAH! Almost alphabetical!

[marshall9]

HAH! Almost alphabetical!

That's kind of not coincidental. Back in the day (early 70's) SCCA had FA, FB and FC, I remember them being graded by speeds, like Production cars were AP< BP< CP, etc.

[Brian]

Which Formula Mazda - tube frame or carbon tub car?

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Which Formula Mazda - tube frame or carbon tub car?

Tub = PFM (Pro FM) totally different car.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

They are also listed in 'cost of running' order

[jchracer]

They are also listed in 'cost of running' order

As an FB (F1000) owner, I would dispute that claim.

[buddahson]

As an FB (F1000) owner, I would dispute that claim.

Just curious, but at a high level, what would you're dispute be? Also, I assume this is based on competitive running costs rather than just getting by and having some fun costs. I just picked up an FC and am still trying to wrap my head around operating costs, knowing that I don't need to be competitive.

[jchracer]

Just curious, but at a high level, what would you're dispute be? Also, I assume this is based on competitive running costs rather than just getting by and having some fun costs. I just picked up an FC and am still trying to wrap my head around operating costs, knowing that I don't need to be competitive.

As always, your results may vary but I have been pleasantly surprised at the running costs of the FB. I have gotten exceptional life out of my motors and the cars are easy on tires. I would expect my running costs to be on par or below that of the FC or FE.

[Purple Frog]

Bud,
Sort of depends on how serious you are going to be with that new (to you) Citation.
It's pinto powered. Expect a $4K refresh every ~20 hours if you are serious about fast. You can stretch it a few more hours at the regional level.
If you are a good wrench, you might be able to do every other "refresh" yourself for about half. Oil, plugs, etc last the 20 hours.
Tires are ~$950 a set new. I raced about 3 years on "take-offs" from pro teams.
Brakes last quite a while. Figure about $175 per axle for pads. Maybe once a year. Beginners usually wear out brakes much faster than experienced folks.
Fuel can be $10/gallon, unless you have a friend with an airplane or access to a local airport.
Helmet,suit,shoes,gloves,socks,HANS can have a big initial shock. I've had shoes last 15 years (if you don't wear them to the bar in the evening). I've had quality gloves last 7 years. (i don't try to squeeze the naugablood out of the steering wheel cover)
I raced 4 years with an open landscape trailer. But, figure about $5K for a good used 20' enclosed. Throw the trailer tires away every 3rd year whether they have tread wear or not... ~$450.
Travel and entry fees will be about 1/2 of your costs, or even more.

[Purple Frog]

OBTW, the "little $hit" adds up fast.
Decal numbers from the local decal shop.
lost Dzus fasteners
racing tape
tearoffs
brake fluid
water wetter
locktite
yadda
yadda
yadda

[Dmitri]

Thanks for the replies! It's about what I was expecting. It is the older tube chassis car, and watching videos from multiple cars running the event even though I'm able to keep up for a few laps it seems like I'm working much harder for it.
Running costs have been absolutely awesome with this car.
Home made open trailer, camping in a tent at the track, take offs for tires ~$250 a set, premium unleaded is cheap fueling. Parts seem to be very reasonable and dealing with msr has been a pleasure.
Right now my running cost a are well under $1000 per weekend and the car has proven to be reliable besides fixing some issues the previous owner created in the gear box. Just keep throwing oil and gas in it haha.

[Purple Frog]

No doubt about it. FM is about the least expensive way to go. That is why so many have become country club cars.
Arrive at track at 5:30. Get in your FM. Back out of your garage. Go play. Park it back in the garage. Go have a cocktail.
The FM that won the Runoffs with Franklin a few years back, sold shortly thereafter for ~$18K. A Runons winning car for $18K. Hard to beat.

[mstephenson51]

Yeah, I agree with what was said above.... Least expensive class in SCCA IMO.

I ran in a group with FV, FF, FA at a small race. I was still learning the car but I was 5s/lap off of the FA. Those are a LOT more car. FF you should be running with in the beginning, and then passing once you get better.

[LarryWinkelman]

When FM first started running SCCA, it was classed in FC, against mostly F2000 cars. An F2000 was usually faster. Current club F2000/FC should be faster than FM. With the new FE tire, FM and FE are probably very close in lap times.

SCCA track records for CENDiv tracks, where MC runs, here:
http://www.cendiv-scca.org/03racing/...ckrecords.html

Perhaps MC will let you run as an FC.

[daericks]

The information above is assuming you running the cars inn "spec" form, including tires. There are MANY little things you can do to the FM (run Hoosiers/GY255, remove rev chip, lightweight clutch, lighter rims, unsealed motor modifications, brakes, etc.) to get quite a bit more out of them. My team out West is running as FS with former FM cars. Again, this coincides with the comment from Frog as to why they are showing up everywhere as club cars. If you want to be fastest guy for the lowest entry fee its hard to beat the FM platform.