Tweaked chain

[cunn5]

Would a broken chain tensioner cause a kink like this in a chain?

[cunn5]

Kinked link

[provamo]

i dunno

what is the symptom?

[J Leonard]

Or would the chain failure cause the tensioner to break? Vibration, side load, slack?

[cunn5]

I was changing gear ratios and retensioning the chain when I noticed the chain hopping while I was trying to adjust the tension, the tensioner fell out. So I don't know which came first, the tweeked chain or the broken tensioner. The symptom was the chain getting tight and loose and making a popping noise twice a rotation as I rotated by hand . And in the picture of the chain, the link near the center of the picture, the left side of it is tweaked out that's the link that was clicking is it went around and not rotating like it should.

[David Ferguson]

Broken tensioning bolt and bent links, I would say that chain was run too tight. Or perhaps it had to process some debris. Time for a new chain. Do you lube the chain each weekend? We usually do it after the first session when it's nice a warmed up.

[cunn5]

I am new to chain driven cars and may have had it to tight. You could move the chain
About the thickness of the chain and I had lubricated the chain with chain wax.

[J Leonard]

Go up to FB car building and search chain.

[Daryl DeArman]

Do you lube the chain each weekend? We usually do it after the first session when it's nice a warmed up.

Is it normal practice for car guys to lube O-ring/X-ring chains?

Most MX guys don't run O-ring/X-ring chains because of the HP loss and additional weight. They choose to clean/lube the standard chains and they don't last long.

If you run an O-ring/X-ring chain and add lube to side plates that aren't touching anything anyway, aren't you just adding mess and giving a place for debris to cling (and cause wear).

[Northwind]

Is it normal practice for car guys to lube O-ring/X-ring chains?

Most MX guys don't run O-ring/X-ring chains because of the HP loss and additional weight. They choose to clean/lube the standard chains and they don't last long.

If you run an O-ring/X-ring chain and add lube to side plates that aren't touching anything anyway, aren't you just adding mess and giving a place for debris to cling (and cause wear).

It is normal practice for us F1000 guys to lube the chains. Remember we typically run aluminum rear sprockets. These chains are under very high load and generate significant pressure to the sprocket chain interface. The lube seems to prevent material transfer of aluminum to the chain rollers. It also makes the chain run quieter.

[Daryl DeArman]

So, if you've got to lube, why not utilize a lighter, lower friction non-O-ring standard chain with a twin-ring sprocket? Or do many do that already?

[motomoron]

Chain lube is for the interface between the chain rollers and the sprocket teeth. The O-rings keep the chain manufacturer's proprietary lubricant between the pins and roller bores where it belongs.

I race a Radical Prosport w/ a 1340 Hayabusa @1200#, and replace the chain annually, and try to clean it and the sprockets after every race. I use the RK brand GB530GXW chain, which is favored by big bore motorcycle drag racers. I use the appropriate peened master link, clean off all the shipping lubricant before installation, make sure the chain line is within 1mm or better, and shoot for about 10mm deflection max at the tight spot. They usually need adjustment once the first weekend, then toward the end of the season.

I've been around the motorcycle world a long, long time and don't believe there exists a non-sealed chain capable of enduring the staggering tensile and shock loads sports racers exert on their drive trains.

[JEREMY HILL]

I have used DID x-ring chains for years with no problems but just tried a EK 530ZVX3 chain that was supposed to be stronger, it let go at the Glen last Saturday costing me the win....