Widening a Lynx

[socaljeff3798]

I was doing some test fitting in the Lynx I am trying to restore and have come to the conclusion that I need to widen the top of the cockpit.
My forearms hit the upper frame rails. Any advice or pictures of how others have delt with this.

Jeff

[Ed Womer]

I am guessing you have 1 1/2" brace going from the front hoop to the rear and if you want to keep the original bodywork the best you can do is remove the 1 1/2" and replace it with 1" .095 DOM or slightly thinner wall chrome moly and fit them tight against the bodywork. If that won't give you enough room you could place the tube outside the bodywork but without knowing what you need it is hard to tell or explain.

I have done similar work on a couple of Mysterians and I think I raised the rear hoop on an older Lynx many years ago but I don't remember if I change the forward brace as well but most likely did and would have fit the brace as close to the bodywork as possible.

Ed

[problemchild]

Some people have delt with the situation by using a smaller steering wheel. It is not really a fix, but can help some, as does moving the wheel up, down, in, or out, so your fore arms may be in a different location or angle, essentially moving your arms instead of the bars.

[jjgorski]

This is how one of my lynx is configured loads of room for myself I'm 5'9" 180 lbs I think this is what ed womer was talking about.

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...0&d=1417097146

[socaljeff3798]

Thanks guys. That is helpful. I was think of doing what Ed had suggested. But I do like the supports coming from the roll bar. And thank you for the picture.

Jeff

[pacratt]

I've also seen two that were widened by removing the 1-1/2" round tubes between the front & rear roll hoops and replacing it with 1" x 2" set as far out as possible,
I've also seen widening done (where your shoulders would be) with a spreader while heating the both tubes with torches, but this only allows so much before pulling the main roll hoop forward.
Glenn

[BLS]

The linked picture looks as though you would be wide open in case of any side impact. I don't like that at all.

I had lots of fit problems in my Citation as a result of my height. After several modifications I fit OK. The first one which helped with the problem you describe was to lower myself in the car, getting under the side frame bars a bit. I did this by lowering the floorpan, adding 1" at the bottom, and moving my butt just a bit forward. I sit on the floorpan which is a CM steel pan of .060 thickness. It is curved from the sides to the center, allowable per the GCR. In my case moving forward meant I lost the legroom needed and had to deal with that issue. Maybe you are not quite so vertically challenged...

[ajpastore]

Greg has a good point...you can gain a bunch of desired arm clearance by moving the wheel around. Forward, back towards you, down or up just a small amount can work wonders.

The tilt of the wheel also plays a big part in how your arms need to move in the cockpit. I have found that a more vertical steering wheel tends to require less overall arm movement and less banging into bars.

Also, getting lower into the car if possible, just a bit, will pay dividends on upper body room.

If you haven't tried any of these things, be sure to do so before you start cutting out bars!

AP

[socaljeff3798]

Thanks for all the input guys. A lot of good ideas to think about.

Jeff

[DaveB]

I watched Bill Noble just take a port-a-power to his till he fit.

[socaljeff3798]

So that was his secret!

[Mark_Silverberg]

Jeff,

There are three things your can do to easily get drivers of up to 6'4" in a Lynx B

1) Drop floor 1"
2) Move rear attach points of upper frame stringers upward - this involves cutting the tubes just aft of the front dash and angle them up about 1" to 1.25 inches - they will still fit within stock body work
3) Scallop lower frame tubes slightly to accommodate a wider bottom on the driver an allow the driver to drop lower in the car.

This typically will then drop the shoulders of the driver just under the upper frame stringers and allow much more room for arm motion.

The other thing that can be done is to get rid of the traditional Lynx B shift lever and use a piece of aluminum bar that extends further upward and out so it is easier to reach.

[Mark_Silverberg]

picture of shifter

[Mark_Silverberg]

You can just see the front edge of the frame scallops in this picture

[pacratt]

I watched Bill Noble just take a port-a-power to his till he fit.

I heard he also used a large hammer to notch the main frame of his first D-car to fit his hips...and John Mills almost fainted when he saw him doing it...LOL

Glenn

[Mark_Silverberg]

Given the thickness of the lower frame tubes it must have been Thor's hammer and he must have been worthy.

[JerryH]

We used a 9 inch Protoform steering wheel in Dustins C and D caracals. Not sure if you can still get them....but they help a lot. We even cut the top out of one so the tach could be seen more easily.

I don't recommend the 8 inch wheel that some of the early D cars had in them. They were very deep dish with the tach in the middle of the wheel.

250 mm wheels are readily available....and should help. That is what we use in the JDR F1000s. I see no reason to use anything bigger.

It is important to get as low as possible in the car. Notching the lower frame rails will keep it from bruising the hip bones.

Jerry Hodges

[socaljeff3798]

Thanks Jerry