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Thread: Ignition coil Q

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    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Default Ignition coil Q

    What are people using for coils? One of my co drivers is not a fan of the Bosch Blue. I just blew out my 2nd one in 2 yrs and the first one lasted about 2 yrs. That is lots of runs and some on some pretty rough stuff.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

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    If you run a Pertronix Ignitor ignition, you can run one of their matched coils. Stay away from Accel or MSD unless you take care to match their current draw (primary resistance) to the ignition you are using, they have burnt up points and Pertronix modules both when I got one of those coils my mistake.

    Brian

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    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Several coils and Pertronix points sets later... Tomorrow I will be trying new Pertronix points and their coil. Hope that works. I am surprised my previous Pertronix points system lasted as long as it did with an MSD coil.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

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    Pertronix modules are sensitive to poor grounding of their mounting plate inside the distributor all the way back to the block and main system ground. If you have an advance plate inside the distributor that moves, really clean the sliding ground contact and lube with dielectric grease, lightly. Measure the temperature of the coil, if it's getting hot, there is a problem. 3 ohm coil is what is recommended for 4 cylinder engines, 1.5 ohm is for 8 cylinder engines.

    Brian

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    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Coil and points worked for 6 runs today. I have a Pertronix distributor and it has a ground wire inside. The hardest part about replacing it is the little screw for this wire. Car did not have the same extra power as the last time. I advanced the timing a bit, rotated the distributer counter clockwise. It did not make things worse. Yesterday when I tried to check timing I found that there is not a marker on the flywheel at TDC. Will need to take care of that.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

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    Ford Kent distributor rotates counter-clockwise, so to advance the timing you rotate the housing clockwise and to retard you rotate counter clockwise. You are moving the distributor towards the direction it is rotating from so things happen earlier in the rotation.

    Brian

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    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    Ford Kent distributor rotates counter-clockwise, so to advance the timing you rotate the housing clockwise and to retard you rotate counter clockwise. You are moving the distributor towards the direction it is rotating from so things happen earlier in the rotation.

    Brian
    Thank you. Will try the other way next time. Not sure when I will have time to ck TDC to mark the flywheel.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

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    Look for a 38 degree mark. I used to always mark both. FWIW moving the distributor and not being able to check the timing after is always a bad idea. I once was fixing a guy's Formula Junior engine at the track, he was "setting the timing by ear" and he had around 60 degrees of advance. It actually ran kinda OK, no idea how.

    Brian

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