Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 46 of 46
  1. #41
    Contributing Member
    Join Date
    08.18.12
    Location
    Port Angeles, Wa.
    Posts
    96
    Liked: 41

    Default

    Two things that I have done to get the air out and pedal firm.

    Surge bleed the brakes - takes 2 people and the m/cyl(s) need to be fairly new. Open a bleeder and JAM the brake pedal to the floor. Hold the pedal down till the bleeder is tightened. Repeat as needed. Keep the m/cyl(s) full and do not use a mity vac or pressure bleeder to do this.

    Caliper seals that retract the pistons too far can be "persuaded" to comply by removing the loose pads (one at a time!) and gently pushing down the brake pedal till the piston(s) move toward the rotor. You may have to gently hold the first piston from moving too far in order to get the second one to move. Reinstall the pad without moving the pistons back too far. Pad should drag on the rotor. Repeat with any loose pads.

    JMR
    Last edited by ExKartracer; 03.27.15 at 1:58 AM. Reason: verbage!

  2. #42
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    07.11.09
    Location
    Saint Charles, Mo.
    Posts
    254
    Liked: 14

    Default Splitting the caliper halves

    Quote Originally Posted by Swift17 View Post
    WARNING, WARNING .... WILL ROBINSON ... WARNING

    Do NOT mix up the calipers half's if you take them apart - they are machined as set - before removing them from the car/upright, stamp the tops something like "LFO/LFI" "RFI/RFO", etc. Failing to do so will require you to upgrade to new calipers ........ (I agree it is time to rebuild)

    Also if Tom a/k/a "BrownsLane" will pipe in, he can recommend the paint to use from a rattle can to re-paint -- he uses it in his restoration and I used it - works great -- Also I left all the original seals/plugged the holes in-tack and with duct tape over the original seals +area I cleaned them by glass beading - and used liberal air to blowoff thereafter
    I have heard the recommendation against splitting the caliper halves before but I never heard the reason why not. Other than keeping the two halves together of course. Is there any other reason? Also, do you know what kind of paint is suitable for a caliper. It would have to be a high temperature paint, right?

  3. #43
    Late Braking Member
    Join Date
    09.04.02
    Location
    Danville, California
    Posts
    624
    Liked: 217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T644HU07 View Post
    ... Also, do you know what kind of paint is suitable for a caliper. It would have to be a high temperature paint, right?
    I used this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vht-sp736 in a different color twice, the first time I didn't fully follow the instructions (cooking the calipers to cure the paint), it wasn't a very durable finish. The second time I did follow the instructions and it worked great, handled sloppy bleeding and brakekleen without any problems.

    Steve

  4. #44
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
    Join Date
    12.17.00
    Location
    madison heights,mi
    Posts
    3,267
    Liked: 601

    Default Rebuilding LD-19 calipers

    When we rebuild LD-19 and 20 calipers, we split them, bead clean and then Zink coated. Normally gold
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

  5. #45
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    08.29.15
    Location
    Prescott, AZ
    Posts
    447
    Liked: 182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kea View Post
    When we rebuild LD-19 and 20 calipers, we split them, bead clean and then Zink coated. Normally gold
    Do you zinc plate the bores also?

  6. #46
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
    Join Date
    12.17.00
    Location
    madison heights,mi
    Posts
    3,267
    Liked: 601

    Default LD 19 calipers

    Quote Originally Posted by jrh3 View Post
    Do you zinc plate the bores also?
    No
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  




About Us
Since 2000, ApexSpeed.com has been the go-to place for amateur road racing enthusiasts, bringing together a friendly community of racers, fans, and industry professionals. We're all about creating a space where people can connect, share knowledge, and exchange parts and vehicles, with a focus on specific race cars, classes, series, and events. Our community includes all major purpose-built road racing classes, like the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) and various pro series across North America and beyond. At ApexSpeed, we're passionate about amateur motorsports and are dedicated to helping our community have fun and grow while creating lasting memories on and off the track.
Social