Brake overhaul

[Ackmann]

i purchased the Tilton 74 master cylinder based on recommendations on an earlier thread. Now it's time to overhaul my full break system. I have a good local source (Ott Friction in Portland) that I can send my older brake calipers too and they can make them like new, but I'm thinking it may be better performance and reasonably the same cost to perhaps just buy a new set of calipers and rotors.

Any good suggestions of models and locations of what brakes I may want to buy?

Also the previous brake system used a clear plastic brake line the same as my sons racing kart uses. This seems too light weight, shouldn't I upgrade to something heavier or are these small plastic brake lines commonly used?

[Jnovak]

i purchased the Tilton 74 master cylinder based on recommendations on an earlier thread. Now it's time to overhaul my full break system. I have a good local source (Ott Friction in Portland) that I can send my older brake calipers too and they can make them like new, but I'm thinking it may be better performance and reasonably the same cost to perhaps just buy a new set of calipers and rotors.

Any good suggestions of models and locations of what brakes I may want to buy?

Also the previous brake system used a clear plastic brake line the same as my sons racing kart uses. This seems too light weight, shouldn't I upgrade to something heavier or are these small plastic brake lines commonly used?

First, what car do you have and what are your current calipers?

Most cars use Wilwood calipers but not all. They are very reasonably price and you are better off with new. If you can rebuild them yourself then do so. Sending them out for rebuild will cost more than new calipers if they are Wilwoods.

[Ackmann]

Not sure about size, the rotars only look to be around 6-7". The car is still a mystery, I believe it's a F440 that ran in the early 80's in in the northwest. It now has a arctic cat 550 in it but came with the original chaparral 448. I plan to just autox and maybe a hillclimb or two with local clubs in oregon.

I suspect it may be better to just buy new and wondered about models or dimensions that may come into play.

[Ackmann]

I dont have any good pics and the car is at my shop a ways away from the house.

I guess my basic question is what are some of you running? Model and disc diameter. And what do you use for brake lines?

[Jnovak]

I dont have any good pics and the car is at my shop a ways away from the house.

I guess my basic question is what are some of you running? Model and disc diameter. And what do you use for brake lines?

You are going to have a very hard time finding rotors. They were probably made specifically for this car. I do not recognize the chassis.

I suggest that you take some photos of the brakes without the wheels on. Someone might be able to help.

Our cars have run either Brakeman or Wilwood calipers. The most common caliper in use in the class is the Wilwood caliper with a 3.25" bolt spacing. There have been multiple models that will probably fit.

Everyone is now using stainless braided brake lines at the wheels. Many older cars used plastic lines. DO NOT USE PLASTIC LINES.

[DanW]

Could the car be a Malibu GP concession car?

[Ackmann]

Could the car be a Malibu GP concession car?

I don't think so, it's come up on this forum but the guy I bought it from knew the original owner and said he raced it in the NW in the early 80's and then later solo. It shows a A/M race class on its side. The other race car the guy had was a traditional F500.

It has a larger rollover bar, 4 disc brakes and suspension. Has changeable gear set in the back as well. It's geared for autox currently, top speed probably only perhaps 80 but it's wicked quick.

[mark 21]

He does not have a f500. It does not have 10" wheels. There are shocks on the car and it has a diff. So what we run for rotors will not work for what he has. Here are pictures of his his prior posts.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64573

[Ackmann]

He does not have a f500. It does not have 10" wheels. There are shocks on the car and it has a diff. So what we run for rotors will not work for what he has. Here are pictures of his his prior post.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64573

I think you miss read the previous post. What I said was the guy i bought it from had two cars, the other one was a f500. So I'm guessing he was somewhat familiar with the hobby. I like the looks of the older car and he actually wanted more cash for this one for some reason. This particular car I'm still trying to pin down. I know it was the first car the original owner had for racing before he later got the F500. I'm still guessing it ran as an early F440 in Portland and Seattle.

As far as the brakes, I think I'll just take them off and see what I can match up from wildwood. My instincts were to upgrade to SS braided lines, so I'm glad to see you guys are using those as well. I'm also looking at buying a Formula FST as more of a track car, but this one seems like it would make a fun AutoX car with the two stroke acceleration and automatic clutch.

[mark 21]

The car does not comply with f500 or F440 rules. Not even close to f500. F5 and F440 cars never had 13" wheels or diff. in them. They have always been a solid rear axle car and never ever had shocks or springs in them. What is the wheel base on that car? Also all F5 and F440 cars have side pods that are out to the width Max of 55" to the outside of the tires. The old cars F440s started out at 73" wheel base cars and later were changed to max 80" wheel base, which they are still to this day. That maybe some type of Malibu car. A-Mod auto cross would probably be the only place it could run. That looks like body work from an early FV car. That car does not have any roots of a f440 other then having a 2stroke in it. Here is the website For the SCCAs rule book which is called the GCR. on pages 308 to 313 the F500 Class is covered. After reading this you will see your car is not close to an F5 or F440.

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...%20January.pdf