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  1. #1
    Senior Member gbmetcalf's Avatar
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    Default Full flow oil system.

    Ok all this is what I have planned and all the parts are in place. Does it make sense to you guys?




    G.
    G. Brian Metcalf
    72 AutoD MK4
    1991 Mysterian M2
    2014 ALR73 FV/FST

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    Brian,
    Your drawings look correct .. however, IMHO, full flow oil filters/coolers are a LOT more trouble than they are worth. MOST FV's just filter/cool using the bypass spot on the top of the block. Changing the engine with full flow is generally twice the effort and twice the mess for no measurable gain.
    Of course, YMMV
    Steve, FV80
    Racing since '73 - FV since '77

  3. #3
    Senior Member gbmetcalf's Avatar
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    Steve:
    I understand what you are saying, and honestly I prefer simplicity. The engine I purchased came with a full flow pump and I had 99% of the parts to make it work. So rather than change out what the engine builder had I did what I do and that was to use what I had.

    G.


    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Davis View Post
    Brian,
    Your drawings look correct .. however, IMHO, full flow oil filters/coolers are a LOT more trouble than they are worth. MOST FV's just filter/cool using the bypass spot on the top of the block. Changing the engine with full flow is generally twice the effort and twice the mess for no measurable gain.
    Of course, YMMV
    G. Brian Metcalf
    72 AutoD MK4
    1991 Mysterian M2
    2014 ALR73 FV/FST

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    1) You can crack the boss on the engine where return fitting is screwed in.

    2) A touch more efficient flow when the return line feeds in at the oil cooler mount.

    Brian

  5. #5
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbmetcalf View Post
    Steve:
    I understand what you are saying, and honestly I prefer simplicity. The engine I purchased came with a full flow pump and I had 99% of the parts to make it work. So rather than change out what the engine builder had I did what I do and that was to use what I had.

    G.

    The full-flow system does a better job. You will need to change your engine less with a full-flow system. If you only have one engine, what does it matter.

    Those blocks are good if you have a fleet of cars and fleet of engines and you want to be able to swap them around easily and quickly.

    When plumbing the lines, the in-out on the oil filter block refers to in-out of the filter NOT in-out of the engine.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

  6. #6
    Senior Member gbmetcalf's Avatar
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    Greg:
    I have one motor and want to keep it running as good and as long as I can. The block I have looks like this. It sits and uses the stock oil cooler seals and holes but it also has a 10AN inlet and exit.
    G.


    Quote Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
    The full-flow system does a better job. You will need to change your engine less with a full-flow system. If you only have one engine, what does it matter.

    Those blocks are good if you have a fleet of cars and fleet of engines and you want to be able to swap them around easily and quickly.

    When plumbing the lines, the in-out on the oil filter block refers to in-out of the filter NOT in-out of the engine.
    G. Brian Metcalf
    72 AutoD MK4
    1991 Mysterian M2
    2014 ALR73 FV/FST

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    I personally have always used a full flow system since it's the only way to insure 100% filtering prior to entering the engine. Another issue I have run into with a combination oil filter /cooler block is that they can over stress the cases and cause cracks. At over $700 for new cases it's worth considering. I like the block in your picture because it doesn't look to offset or heavy.

    With a full flow system you'll need to be patient when starting a motor that has sat for some time. It takes a bit of time to prime the entire system before the bearings get lubed so pre crank the motor and get pressure. I have a separate ignition switch on my dash,
    The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views and opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR. thanks, Brian McCarthy, BOD area 9.

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    Other questions: what brand and weight oil do you intend to use? Road racing or pylon racing?

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    somewhat related, but not really - is there a trick to replacing the oil filter on one of these blocks (with the filter standing vertical above the engine) without making a huge mess?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiago Santos View Post
    somewhat related, but not really - is there a trick to replacing the oil filter on one of these blocks (with the filter standing vertical above the engine) without making a huge mess?
    Yes....of course. However, step#1 is REMOVE ENGINE.
    Steve, FV80
    Racing since '73 - FV since '77

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    If the engine's rings are step up correctly, you should be burning enough oil so as to never require an oil change. Say, 1 qt or more per (200 mi?) for an event/weekend. In theory you would only change the filter during a rebuild.

    Brian

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Davis View Post
    Yes....of course. However, step#1 is REMOVE ENGINE.
    Ah, never thought of that. My plan was to flip the car over!

  13. #13
    Senior Member gbmetcalf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiago Santos View Post
    Ah, never thought of that. My plan was to flip the car over!
    Tiago: I was thinking a rotisserie would help in oil filter changes!

    G.
    G. Brian Metcalf
    72 AutoD MK4
    1991 Mysterian M2
    2014 ALR73 FV/FST

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