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  1. #1
    Member keljag's Avatar
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    Default Fuel over winter and suggestions for a stand

    All,

    I am new to FE (first year). This is the first winter I will have my car in Virginia and I wanted to ask if I should stabilize the fuel in the fuel cell over the winter or just drain it all out?

    This will be the first time I put the car up off the wheels over the winter. I plan to build a stand. Anyone have suggestions for a stand and where to place it under the chassis for a few months?

    I read another thread on winterizing and wanted to see if anyone has any other suggestions for an expected hard winter in Northern VA.

    Thanks,
    Kelton

  2. #2
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    I recall previous recommendations on ApexSpeed that the fuel cell should either be stored completely full, or completely empty. If you opt to store it full, I would recommend non-reformulated fuel, if available in your area.

    50/50 blend of antifreeze and distilled water in the cooling system. After adding the 50/50, fire engine to circulate it throughout system.

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  4. #3
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    Drain the tank. Most street fuels will degrade the foam in the tank, which will end up clogging your fuel filter.

    Anti-freeze in the water system, but please, please, please replace with plain distilled water before going back on-track. Anti-freeze is one of the worst things you can put on a track surface.

    Depending on the length of time it will be sitting, you may also want to oil-fog the cylinders and/or wipe down the exhaust with some thin oil to prevent rusting.

    Disconnect the battery or put it on a trickle charger (Battery Tender or equivalent).

    All you need for a "stand" to get the tires off the floor is a couple of 6x6 posts cut to length. You want to locate them under the frame crossmembers. Front is centered at the back edge of the "tea tray" under the splitter; rear is at the back edge of the fuel call, right in front of the engine.
    Marshall Mauney

    Milwaukee Region

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  6. #4
    Member keljag's Avatar
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    Thank you to all, doing it now, kj

  7. #5
    Senior Member SStadel's Avatar
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    Actually 4X4's get the car off the ground.
    Competition One Racing
    racer6@mchsi.com

  8. #6
    Contributing Member Eric Cruz's Avatar
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    If you want a stand to get the car up to working height, I use this stand from Marty Knoll. It cannot be beat for quality, design and value at $495. I'll probably order another one

    http://www.mktechnologies.com/produc...ssis_stand.htm

    Whereabouts are you in Virginia? I've got two FEs in my home shop located just West of Williamsburg and would be happy to help in any way I can.

    Best regards,
    Eric
    If you don't think too good, don't think too much.
    - Ted Williams

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  10. #7
    Senior Member Bruce Allen FSCCA #82's Avatar
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    I thought Enterprises recommended 50/50 antifreeze on track to stop head localized boiling that was causing detonation and blown engines.

    BTW: In ten years of FE active racing I never drained or filled my fuel tank in winter and had no problem. I am, however, right now replacing a leaking FuelSafe bladder in a custom made street roadster that has had the cell since 1998 (16yrs).
    Bruce, the "Greased Shadow"

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  12. #8
    Contributing Member Tifosi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Allen FSCCA #82 View Post
    I thought Enterprises recommended 50/50 antifreeze on track to stop head localized boiling that was causing detonation and blown engines.
    That is correct.

    http://www.sccaenterprises.com/updat...detonation.doc
    Dave

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  14. #9
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    Water wetter or regular automotive antifreeze? I use G-05 HOAT in my BMW and Jeep CRD Diesel so wonder if that would be okay in the FE?
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  15. #10
    Senior Member Bruce Allen FSCCA #82's Avatar
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    Must be regular antifreeze. That will raise the boiling point sufficiently along with the radiator cap pressure.
    Bruce, the "Greased Shadow"

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  17. #11
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    Okay, I'll use the G-05 European blend unless HOAT antifreezes aren't recommended for some reason.

    Since your in NH I thought I'd ask if your familiar with Charles Farley's car. I just bought it from him and am really happy with it's condition.
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  18. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Allen FSCCA #82 View Post
    I thought Enterprises recommended 50/50 antifreeze on track to stop head localized boiling that was causing detonation and blown engines.
    Oops - I stand corrected. I didn't know about this. Most racing organizations prohibit anti-freeze on track (or at least ethylene glycol), so I assumed SCCA does too:

    https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com...nt/282/ccr.pdf

    http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/prices-rules#rules

    http://amaproracing.cdn.racersites.c...2014-Rules.pdf

    http://www.millermotorsportspark.com...A&B_010614.pdf
    Marshall Mauney

    Milwaukee Region

  19. #13
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    I was always under the understanding that just about every racing organization prohibits antifreeze. That's why I originally planned on water wetter since it does the same thing antifreeze does as far as decreasing the surface tension of the water therefore cooling the car better since more surface area of the water = better absorption of heat. I have no idea if it aids in slowing corrosion however.
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  20. #14
    Senior Member Bruce Allen FSCCA #82's Avatar
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    water wetter does not increase boiling temperature or reduce freezing temperature.

    http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...ead+boiling%22
    Last edited by Bruce Allen FSCCA #82; 11.08.14 at 11:09 PM.
    Bruce, the "Greased Shadow"

  21. #15
    Contributing Member dsmithwc04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Allen FSCCA #82 View Post
    water wetter does not increase boiling temperature or reduce freezing temperature.

    http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...ead+boiling%22
    Yeah, that's correct. I was only making a statement that it lowers the surface tension of water. Increasing boiling temp should hopefully not be necessary as long as the car is ran at the appropriate temp. If its running over 180 (from what I've been told) it should probably be pulled into the pits and the reason for overheating figured out. As far as freezing goes, my garage is heated so no worries there. I'm still curious about the ability for water wetter to slow down corrosion. Will have to research this...

    I hope antifreeze in somebody's car isn't ever the reason I lose out on track time. Too much money, blood, sweat and tears getting to the track for coolant to keep me off it...
    I race communist race cars.

    "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling, there are rules." - Walter Sobchak

  22. #16
    Contributing Member DanW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsmithwc04 View Post
    .... I'm still curious about the ability for water wetter to slow down corrosion. Will have to research this...

    I hope antifreeze in somebody's car isn't ever the reason I lose out on track time. Too much money, blood, sweat and tears getting to the track for coolant to keep me off it...
    Water wetter has a corrosion inhibitor and water pump lubricant additive package.
    “Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan

  23. #17
    Senior Member Bruce Allen FSCCA #82's Avatar
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    In New England I often drive in subfreezing temperatures in the early or late season usually with clubs other than SCCA. I remember in 2001 at Lime Rock the day before Thanksgiving with my Crossle FF waking up Saturday AM to 1/4 inch of ice on the tires and 14 degrees temperature. No surprise when I spun on the first time through the left-hander. Yeah, I used antifreeze.
    Bruce, the "Greased Shadow"

  24. #18
    Member keljag's Avatar
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    Default Fogging the engine

    To fog or not to fog? The car will sit for a couple months. If I do, should I go through the plugs instead of the air intake? Any knowledge is appreciated for someone with little experience on this. I do not want to screw up my motor! Thanks, Kelton

  25. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Cruz View Post
    If you want a stand to get the car up to working height, I use this stand from Marty Knoll. It cannot be beat for quality, design and value at $495. I'll probably order another one

    http://www.mktechnologies.com/produc...ssis_stand.htm

    Whereabouts are you in Virginia? I've got two FEs in my home shop located just West of Williamsburg and would be happy to help in any way I can.

    Best regards,
    Eric
    +1 on MK Technologies.

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  27. #20
    Senior Member Bruce Allen FSCCA #82's Avatar
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    start it once a month or more-- or at least crank it until oil pressure up.
    Bruce, the "Greased Shadow"

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