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  1. #1
    Senior Member BennyBad's Avatar
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    Default what type of oil filters are you using with 07/08 gsxr 1000

    time of the year i buy my supplies for oil changes
    been using the stock oem filters since ive owned the car and no issues. but if you read adverts from companies that say better pressure and filtering etc...
    what are you guys using out there??
    ive been happy with my oil selection of Motul 300 V 5W40 for motorcycles. i change oil after every race weekend sometimes every 2 depending on temps,conditions

    any advice would be appreciated
    thank you
    Benny B

  2. #2
    Senior Member ghickman's Avatar
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    Fairly certain that the two top engine builders in the USA recommend the stock filter.

    I've used Purolator also, you can get them at any Pep Boys and they cost about $5 each.

    The fancy motor oils are nice and expensive. The key here is change after every race weekend. I buy my oil at Walmart for $15 a gallon and this is what one of the top engine builders recommends.
    Gary Hickman
    Edge Engineering Inc
    FB #76

  3. #3
    Contributing Member glenn cooper's Avatar
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    With ya on the 300V Motul - I get a bit of sponsorship from a local shop on that, but yeah, stuff is 'spensive, like 20/Qt retail...

    I feel changing after every weekend, which is most likely a test day, some prac, Q and TWO races, is overkill on the oil. Have you sent any off for analysis? Plenty of life left after a weekend. I go two, and even then damned near want to dump it into my old Toyota truck for another 3-5k miles!

    OE filter. NEVER seen or heard of one of them fail, plenty of annecdotal (always wanted to use that word - check THAT off my bucketlist!) evidence pointing to really bad incidents w/ affa' market brands.

  4. #4
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    Has anyone done an oil analysis to see how it is? I would guess it would be fine for far more than 2 events.

  5. #5
    Senior Member lancer360's Avatar
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    I sent a sample of Royal Purple off for analysis after 3 weekends including test days with my F600 GSXR. Report said it had plenty of life left to go the rest of the season. I change my oil once a season. I use the K&N oil filters, not because I believe they are any better than others, but because they have a nut on the end of the filter. The nut makes removal much easier in the tight confines of the engine bay.
    Chris Ross
    09 NovaKBS F600 #36 Powered by '09 600 Suzuki GSX-R
    "If all else fails, immortality can always be assured by spectacular error." John Kenneth Galbraith

  6. #6
    Senior Member BennyBad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn cooper View Post
    With ya on the 300V Motul - I get a bit of sponsorship from a local shop on that, but yeah, stuff is 'spensive, like 20/Qt retail...

    I feel changing after every weekend, which is most likely a test day, some prac, Q and TWO races, is overkill on the oil. Have you sent any off for analysis? Plenty of life left after a weekend. I go two, and even then damned near want to dump it into my old Toyota truck for another 3-5k miles!

    OE filter. NEVER seen or heard of one of them fail, plenty of annecdotal (always wanted to use that word - check THAT off my bucketlist!) evidence pointing to really bad incidents w/ affa' market brands.
    with you on the motul, seems to hold up better(amateur analysis by human eye)
    comes out as green as it went in as compared to other synthetics that are much blacker than brown when coming out. never sent out for analysis
    seems to hold up better with the temps. being down souths added heat

    never hears of any complaints with the oem, but positives and negatives on aftermarkets
    that's why im asking but might be answering my own question

    cost is the main reason I buy the Motul in bulk to make it cost effective

    benny

  7. #7
    Contributing Member Revs2-12k's Avatar
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    Default I agree with Chris on the K&N

    Quote Originally Posted by lancer360 View Post
    I use the K&N oil filters, not because I believe they are any better than others, but because they have a nut on the end of the filter. The nut makes removal much easier in the tight confines of the engine bay.
    I agree with Chris on the K&N. No opinion on the K&N's filtering ability, but I have had two oil filters blow-out their seals (to be fair they were hand tightened, not torqued exactly to Suzuki spec) so the extra peace-of-mind of torqueing via the K&N's 17mm hex head and plus the pre-drilled safety wire hole is worth it.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Last edited by Revs2-12k; 05.05.15 at 9:07 AM.
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  8. #8
    Contributing Member Revs2-12k's Avatar
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    Default I agree with Chris on the K&N

    Double post
    Last edited by Revs2-12k; 07.15.14 at 5:51 PM.
    Working hard to enhance my Carbon Fiber footprint....
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  9. #9
    Contributing Member Revs2-12k's Avatar
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    Default Recalling my suggestion to use k&n fliters above

    RECALLING MY SUGGESTION TO USE K&N ABOVE.

    I had a K&N K-138 fail at the spot welds holding the 17mm hex this weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park. Almost lunched an engine..Oil leaked thru the spot welds on the end of the filter, so will not be using. Obvious QC problem. I'm going back to stock SUZUKI filter w/a hose clamp to safety wire.

    The K&N spot welds are additional points of failure and not worth the risk.
    Working hard to enhance my Carbon Fiber footprint....
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  11. #10
    Senior Member BURKY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revs2-12k View Post
    RECALLING MY SUGGESTION TO USE K&N ABOVE.

    I had a K&N K-138 fail at the spot welds holding the 17mm hex this weekend at Carolina Motorsports Park. Almost lunched an engine..Oil leaked thru the spot welds on the end of the filter, so will not be using. Obvious QC problem. I'm going back to stock SUZUKI filter w/a hose clamp to safety wire.

    The K&N spot welds are additional points of failure and not worth the risk.
    Agreed! We had two filters fail at the spot welds last year.

  12. #11
    Senior Member David Locke's Avatar
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    Default The oil filter wrench has a nut on it

    If you get the right tool (not expensive) there will be no need for a filter with a nut on it. The Suzuki oil filter wrench (Suzuki part no. 09915-40610) has a nut on it. See the attachment. I use this tool to torque the stock filter to exactly 14.5 lb-ft and have never had one lose torque in the five years I've used it.
    Last edited by David Locke; 05.01.18 at 10:08 PM.

  13. #12
    Contributing Member glenn cooper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Locke View Post
    If you get the right tool (not expensive) there will be no need for a filter with a nut on it. The Suzuki oil filter wrench (Suzuki part no. 09915-40610) has a nut on it. See the attachment. I use this tool to torque the stock filter to exactly 14.5 lb-ft and have never had one lose torque in the five years I've used it.
    ^ This, AND a clamp/safety wire and you'll NEVER be the guy who oiled the track, and/or lost an engine due to something highly avoidable.

  14. #13
    Senior Member Feffman's Avatar
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    Out local Autozone stores had the Mobil-1 M1MC-133 oil filters for $0.02 per filter. I cleaned out one store and asked them to ship any filters from the other local stores. Stocked up for a year plus.

    Feff

  15. #14
    Senior Member Nick77's Avatar
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    Had the same problem with the K&N filter leaking from the spotwelds
    Back to OEM

  16. #15
    Contributing Member billwald's Avatar
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    We had failures in the same spot Feb 2015 and Nov 2014. 5 years never a problem but something's changed. We change filter and oil every race weekend. Done with K&N for awhile.

  17. #16
    Senior Member JohnPaul's Avatar
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    stock oil filter. why screw around with anything else? I've never heard anyone on the podium credit his awesome aftermarket oil filter for the win.....
    "If you're not driving on the edge you're taking up too much space.... "

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