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  1. #1
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    Default How to rebuild Girling master cylinder?

    Help! I have the how-to provided by Pegasus (see attachment) from whom I bought the repair kits, BUT I can't do step #4 "Dismantle the valve assembly by compressing the spring slightly and tipping the valve rod (12) to one side in the retainer to release the rod from the keyhole slot in the retainer." Any tricks or hints from experience? Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    I am going on memory, so humour me if I get it wrong.

    What you should find, is that the rod is retained at one end by a retainer that has a "keyhole" that the rod goes through. What you need to do, is just compress the spring, which will allow you to just wiggle the rod to the other (bigger) end of the keyhole. That end will have enough clearance to allow the peened over end of the rod to pass through. Volia - it will then come apart in a great rush, with bits flying over the bench, some never to be seen again.

    The reality is that if you are trying to fix one of those old can type cylinders, it may be easier to buy a new one. The bore may not be too flash, and they are difficult to resleeve.

  3. #3
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RolandPeteWilson View Post
    Help! I have the how-to provided by Pegasus (see attachment) from whom I bought the repair kits, BUT I can't do step #4 "Dismantle the valve assembly by compressing the spring slightly and tipping the valve rod (12) to one side in the retainer to release the rod from the keyhole slot in the retainer." Any tricks or hints from experience? Thanks!
    You don't say why you cannot do it. It should not be difficult. As Hawk says, you are moving the rod to the other end of a keyhole. You do need to compress the assembly enough to unseat the end of the rod.

    Whatever you do, don't skip that step. Corrosion or grit on that spring washer is the problem 90% of the time when those cylinders fail. Often, just cleaning that washer, will fix the problem.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Jerry Kehoe's Avatar
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    Default girling cylinders

    My experience with Girling MCs is if there are any scratches of any consequence don't rebuild but rather throw it away and install a new one. They are pretty reasonable, but better yet pay the money and replace with AP MCs. Less free play, always consistent firm pedal.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member formulasuper's Avatar
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    Can these Girling MCs not be rebuilt by smoothing the cylinder bore with the correct size hone?
    Scott Woodruff
    83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S

    (former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Jerry Kehoe's Avatar
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    Default Girling MC

    A very quick deglazing is all I would recommend for these if you want a trouble free MC. Use the right size bottle hone in and out once or twice and if you hone more you are inviting trouble for the cost of the MC.

  7. #7
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    The seals that come in the kit are standard size if you hone the bore well you are wasting your time.

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Blah's Avatar
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    Stainless sleeve works well, $40 last time I did it on a lockheed type.

  9. #9
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    Default Thanks - problem solved.

    All,

    Thanks for you input. I actually bought new MC's for the brakes and rebuilt the clutch MC - the problem was that there was no step #5 in the instructions and that the picture and sidebar instructions should be done in between #3 and #4.

    Cheers!

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