Axle tube outer castings .. made of what?

[Steve Davis]

Anyone know whether the castings are cast IRON or cast STEEL?? Seems like steel to me. I have a couple with the mounting ears (for trailing arms) broken off. If steel, they can be welded back on ... I think. If Iron... not sure if they can be repaired or not.

Interested in thoughts and ideas...

Steve, FV80

[sracing]

Easiest way is with spark test. If you haven't done it before there are good examples on YouTube.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5R1Y6_g0DU8

Jim

[Steve Davis]

Thanks, Jim. Am aware of the spark test and PRETTY sure they are STEEL.. but was hoping someone more knowledgeable could CONFIRM
Also curious if anyone else has ever repaired one using ANY method...?

Steve, FV80

[formulasuper]

Steve, why don't you try a test weld (in an inconspicuous spot)?

[Hardingfv32]

What ever the material, it welds nicely with 309 stainless.

Brian

[Bob Neumeister]

Steve, My vintage car uses one of the holes that most cars don't or some even cut off. So if you do not repair do not throw them away.

[Steve Davis]

What ever the material, it welds nicely with 309 stainless.

Brian

309 ?? Is that a typo or some special rod that no one else has ever heard of ??
Regardless, did you actually make a structural REPAIR or just tack something on to it?

Steve, FV80

[Steve Davis]

Steve, My vintage car uses one of the holes that most cars don't or some even cut off. So if you do not repair do not throw them away.

I stopped throwing VW stuff away a number of years ago .. except for things like drums or spindles that are bent or broken.

That's why I'm interested in saving these castings .... getting a bit hard to come by .
I also have several bent tubes (at the bell) that I've kept .. just in case someone comes up with a way to straighten them. I can visualize a jig to do it, but actually building it just hasn't quite come up on my radar yet...

Seems like a press and a couple of appropriately shaped 'bells' should do most of it - get them back round again and then try to warp the tube back in line with the bell...

Steve, FV80

[Steve Davis]

Steve, why don't you try a test weld (in an inconspicuous spot)?

A test weld wouldn't tell me if it was a STRUCTURAL weld or not. Cast iron is VERY prone to cracking after being welded. If it were cast iron, an internal crack or void might not be visible, but would certainly make the piece UNusable structurally speaking (like suspension loads).

I can't think of a non-destructive way to test it .. and I don't want to be the one in the car if it fails because of a bad weld.

If it's cast IRON, I'd be more inclined to braze it, but not sure I can get the strength I need there either - almost all of the 'normal' load would be attempting to pull the repaired joint apart along the seam. I've never had one fail except in a shunt and unfortunately, it usually breaks the ears clean off

Steve, FV80

[sracing]

Steve,

That's why I'm interested in saving these castings .... getting a bit hard to come by

Give me a call. I have a few old ones and some brand NEW ones that you can have cheap.

Jim
SR

[budawe]

They are cast and prone to breaking. A good smack with a hammer will blow off a flange.