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  1. #1
    Senior Member Neil_Roberts's Avatar
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    Default Quick change car numbers

    A question for those with multiple drivers: Are there any good ways to quickly change car numbers since we can't use magnetic numbers?

  2. #2
    Senior Member chrisw52's Avatar
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    blue tape unless you have a blue car

    you can also try the static cling type numbers, but it's helpful to tape down the leading edges of the numbers

  3. #3
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    Good question, I'm still looking for a better answer.

    My "196" is permanently attached and I cover the "1" with body colored racer tape. It works ok but it's not as nice as I'd like. I made some properly shaped, body colored "1"s and put double sticky tape on them to hold them on the car. Hmmm, didn't work, I lost them a couple times at nats :-(

    I'm tempted by velcro.....

    Barry

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    Programmable LED panel?

    Currently doing same thing as Barry.

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    OT, Niel, let me know when/if you're coming out to a CalClub solo/practice. I heading towards a VD/Honda.
    Robert, check is on its way to me. Car staying local.

  6. #6
    Senior Member David Ferguson's Avatar
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    I used static cling material on my fiberglass bodied 914-6 when we were soloing.

    I found very dark thick plastic material designed for window tinting. I cut out numbers and it would just stick if both surfaces were clean.
    David Ferguson
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    Senior Member mwizard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisw52 View Post
    blue tape unless you have a blue car

    you can also try the static cling type numbers, but it's helpful to tape down the leading edges of the numbers
    Tech at Nationals said blue tap was not Ok, but not an issue for Tech. They said as long as it was a good contrast, the course monitor would probably not give me any trouble and they did not.
    So I, too would like another solution.
    Mark
    1990 Van Diemen, the Racing Machine, CM AutoX, 2016 Frontier
    You can try to make a street car into an autocrosser or you can do a lot less work and make a race car into a great autocrosser

  8. #8
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    Black car........black electical tape to cover the one for me.

    You might check with Jayson Woodruff in our region Neil. He may be able to make you a low tack number cover to match your paint.

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    I had number plates velcroed on the A Mod and it worked very well.

  10. #10
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    Removable / repositional vinyl decal material.
    I have a partial roll of flat black.
    Ian Lenhart
    Level 11 Creative
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  11. #11
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    I have "159" in permanent vinyl on the car, and then cover the "1" with body-colored masking tape. It's worked great so far - sticks reasonably well even when wet & dirty (just a quick wipe of a towel was all we gave it before sticking the numbers). Never had it even get loose before, much less any concern of it actually falling off. If we take our time putting the tape on so that it covers all of the "1", you can't even tell that the 1 was ever there from 50'/50mph (the tape's "sheen" even matches the car's paint).

    Of course maybe it matches a bit too well... we've been caught before forgetting to change numbers between drivers.

  12. #12
    Global Moderator -pru-'s Avatar
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    Default Number Plate...

    Previously, I printed up as large a numbers I could on both sides of a 8.5x11” piece of paper which I then laminated. This “number plate” was then slid into a clear file protector that was racers taped to the side car with the top being open. Worked great.

    My current preference is to use contrasting racers tape to make a “1” with the upper left corner folded back on itself (makes for quick removal). I move the number “1” from above to in front of the base number. If you are worried about pulling paint off when switching numbers, remove some of the racer tape adhesiveness by sticking/removing it from a piece of clothing.
    Chris Pruett
    Swift DB1

  13. #13
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    A variation on the theme, I have a squarish Font #88 , taping off segments to create almost any number required.

  14. #14
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    Default Contact Paper

    I have cut numbers from white contact paper like the stuff used to line drawers in the kitchen. It is cheap, sticks well, easy to remove and don't leave any sticky glue. Much better than painter's tape. Just make up a whole pile of numbers to take to the event. It's a great project for the kids.

  15. #15
    Contributing Member Jim Garry's Avatar
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    What Ian said. Removable / repositional vinyl decal material.

    When I purchased the permanent numbers I also purchased some "1"s that were removable. Works great. However they don't last more than a half dozen events. But I have a bunch of them. I also have some stock material now and can trace out new numbers.

    Sounds like a lot of work but I have to do this because there are some custom graphics under the numbers that would look terrible if I covered permanent "1"s with tape the general color of the car.

    However that's what I used to do with my previous car which was a single color. Worked nice. Couldn't see that the "1" had been covered once you got 20' away.
    Jim


    I wish I understood everything I know.

  16. #16
    Senior Member turnbaugh's Avatar
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    I print numbers out on printer paper and cover them with TracWrap to adhere them to the car. It is cheap enough to throw away or if you remove them and store them on a piece of plastic they are reusable.

    If you want to you can even cut out the numbers.

    Cheap and easy.

    You can use any font and any color.
    Dean
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  17. #17
    Senior Member mwood's Avatar
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    I suppose it would be possible to make a white "meatball" out of magnetic vinyl material, adhere it to the bodywork with low tack adhesive and then use magnetic numbers...

    Just make sure you really need the extra weight

  18. #18
    Contributing Member Lynn's Avatar
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    Cut the numbers out of self adhesive vinyl shelf paper.

  19. #19
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    My ones have the 3M heavy duty velcro on them. Works awesome if your car is black or white (the two colors it comes in) because the patches on the car barely show. Need to replace the patches about every 4 or 5 years. This is the stuff that has plastic 'mushrooms' on both sides, not the hook and loop type.

    Don

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Elzinga View Post
    My ones have the 3M heavy duty velcro on them.

    Don
    Hey Don, what did you make your "1"s out of?

    Thanks,
    Barry

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Ott View Post
    Hey Don, what did you make your "1"s out of?

    Thanks,
    Barry
    There's a plastic shop near here. I bought a chunk of 1/8" thick white polycarbonate scrap for a few bucks. It's surprisingly brittle for polycarbonate. Not sure if it's because it's an off-brand (not Lexan), or if the white coloring weakens it, or if it's just really old. But it's perfect for numbers.

    Don

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Elzinga View Post
    There's a plastic shop near here. I bought a chunk of 1/8" thick white polycarbonate scrap for a few bucks. It's surprisingly brittle for polycarbonate. Not sure if it's because it's an off-brand (not Lexan), or if the white coloring weakens it, or if it's just really old. But it's perfect for numbers.

    Don
    Thanks Don!

  23. #23
    Contributing Member Dick R.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Ott View Post
    Thanks Don!
    How about simply adhering a layer of colored vinyl to an appropriate width strip of the 3M material on the adhesive side? If your numbers are black you could use the plain back version. http://www.mcmaster.com/#hook-and-lo...teners/=ppg1yb

    The numbers and letters on one side of my car are too close together to add a "1". Good thing I rarely, if ever, have a co-driver. No room for a "1" and my pedals are far to close for "normal" height men.

    Dick
    Who takes the "solo" in "Solo" literally.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick R. View Post
    How about simply adhering a layer of colored vinyl to an appropriate width strip of the 3M material on the adhesive side? If your numbers are black you could use the plain back version. http://www.mcmaster.com/#hook-and-lo...teners/=ppg1yb

    The numbers and letters on one side of my car are too close together to add a "1". Good thing I rarely, if ever, have a co-driver. No room for a "1" and my pedals are far to close for "normal" height men.

    Dick
    Who takes the "solo" in "Solo" literally.
    That would be overkill. I use three little half inch long by inch wide patches of the mushroom material per one. Here's the actual material:
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#hook-and-lo...teners/=pph4e2
    Going for $4.27/ft today.
    Don

  25. #25
    Contributing Member TeamFRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Elzinga View Post
    My ones have the 3M heavy duty velcro on them. Works awesome if your car is black or white (the two colors it comes in) because the patches on the car barely show. Need to replace the patches about every 4 or 5 years. This is the stuff that has plastic 'mushrooms' on both sides, not the hook and loop type. Don
    When get around to doing this, I'll copy Peter Schroder's (and Per's) way. Have a permanent 1 and cover it with body color panel. http://sportsracernet.smugmug.com/Cu...dpalmbay-M.jpg
    3M Command brand has better 'velcro' options. Little strips with nubs that interlock. Maybe this--> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg
    TeamFRD-1988 Van Diemen RF88-1267 FF1600 Solo:CM#99/199 http://yspect8.weebly.com

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamFRD View Post
    3M Command brand has better 'velcro' options. Little strips with nubs that interlock. Maybe this--> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg
    Near as I can tell from the thumbnail picture, that's the same fastener I use but with the quick-release adhesive strips on the back. Not sure those would hold up on a racecar.

    Blank space, add a one for the 2nd driver, or permanent one, cover it; either works.

    Don

  27. #27
    Contributing Member Earley Motorsports's Avatar
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    I was at the PRI show in Indy yesterday and there was a company there from Pensacola FL and their business card was made from a reusable vinyl which they called stick/restick. I peeled there card off the backing and stuck it on and removed it from my fender about a dozen times and it felt like it didn't lose any of it bonding. This might work for changing numbers. I do not know what they cost or the minimal amount but going by the other things they had, the prices on them were reasonable. Not affiliated or don't know them or anything, just a thought. The name of the place is The Label co. www.labelco.com

    Graham.

  28. #28
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Thanks, Graham.

    I think the URL might need to have a "the" in front:

    http://www.thelabelco.com/

  29. #29
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Just make a panel that fits on top with a pair of 1/4 turn fasteners. Alternate panels can have different numbers, names, contingency sponsor decals, etc.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
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  30. #30
    Contributing Member Frank C's Avatar
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    Default LCD Segments

    When I first started racing, I tried doing taped on numbers in the shape of LCD numbers, just having to change the small segments to change numbers. Timing and scoring did not like them - didn't think they were clearly distinguishable.
    - Frank C

  31. #31
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    Default Quick Change car numbers

    We have done some pretty cool reusable numbers out of " Fat Head " material. We do a lot of race car graphics and have printed a number of these for both race cars and go karts. As long as the surfaces are clean, they stick real well. Number panels, sponsor decals can be printed directly to the material, and die cut to a specific shape or design. If any one is interested, send me a note and I can forward a picture.

    You can actually peal these numbers off, roll them up in a ball, and then pull them apart and reuse them endless times.

    GV at ApexKartSports

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexKartSports View Post
    ... If any one is interested, send me a note and I can forward a picture....
    Do you have an email address we should use? I tried GV@ApexKartSports.com but it bounced. I also don't have and option to pm you..

    Thanks,
    Barry Ott

  33. #33
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    As mentioned in post #10, I can print or cut repositional vinyl ("fat head" material).

    Ian Lenhart

    Ian@level11creative.com

    Level 11 Creative
    414-719-2043
    Ian Lenhart
    Level 11 Creative
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    lenhart06@yahoo.com

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Lenhart View Post
    As mentioned in post #10, I can print or cut repositional vinyl ("fat head" material).

    Ian Lenhart

    Ian@level11creative.com

    Level 11 Creative
    414-719-2043
    Sorry, I didn't realize you could do that for us. Watch for an email! Thanks.

    Barry

  35. #35
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    Default reusable numbers

    sorry, neglected to include email...
    apexkart@comcast.net or text 978-479-7974

  36. #36
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    Ian made me some Red "Fat head" material. It's white FH material with red decal attached to it to match my car. It makes a nice, thick "1" cover. It sticks really well yet peels nicely without leaving any residue. Very Cool.



    Barry

  37. #37
    Contributing Member Jim Garry's Avatar
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    Barry do you think the stuff would be strong enough to peel, restick, peel, etc if just a "1" were cut out and not a rectangle with a 1 on it?
    Jim


    I wish I understood everything I know.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Garry View Post
    Barry do you think the stuff would be strong enough to peel, restick, peel, etc if just a "1" were cut out and not a rectangle with a 1 on it?
    It sure feels like it will. I'm going to make "1" covers that are slightly larger than the "1"s on the car and stick, peel, restick, repeat... i.e. My car has white decal 196's permanently attached and I'll make "1"s out of my new red Fat Head material to cover the white "1"s on the car.

    I've tried a few things so far and this feels like the best yet. To me, it feels like static cling but with better cling. It's also thicker than static cling so it stays flatter, making it easier to position, and easier to handle when it's not stuck to anything. I'm curious to see how it does in varying weather conditions, hot, cold, wet, but I'm very optimistic :-)

    Barry

  39. #39
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    I made my 1 covers today, they work great! Well, I didn't actually drive the car, but I'm 99.99% sure they'll stay on just fine. I made a test piece (also known as a piece I screwed up) and stuck/removed it from the fridge in my shop about 50 times. I couldn't feel any difference in "stickyness", no residue on the fridge, great!


  40. #40
    Contributing Member Jim Garry's Avatar
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    That's great! The ones I've been using fall apart after a couple of events.
    Jim


    I wish I understood everything I know.

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