Ok another NUBE question this time on brake adjusters

[gbmetcalf]

A lot of the Vees I have seen have the brake adjusters that attach to the master cylinders and move the fulcrum back and forth giving more front or back brake.
In the Mysterian I don't have room for the adjuster cable the way the peddles are.
Has anyone ever used the inline "click valve" style to reduce the rear brakeing force?
In my legends car I and a valve for each corner... it worked pretty good in that application.

G.

[S Lathrop]

My initial instinct is that the adjuster you are thinking about may be too crude, too large an adjustment increment.

You might post a picture of the pedal area and see what the guys on this forum can come up with to solve your problem.

[Hardingfv32]

Of coarse these types of adjusters reduce the total force supplied by the system when used to reduce pressure at the rear (or front). Most competitors already have issues with the compromise between pedal travel and brake system force.

Brian

[Tiago Santos]

Tilton (and I'm sure a few other companies) make a 90 degree adapter for a brake bias cable.. Like Steve said, post some pictures of the pedal box and maybe we can work something out

I've seen a few people use the hydraulic knob type (my car actually came with one of those, worked fine for the previous owner for 300 races!) but I personally wasn't a big fan. If you want to try it, pay for shipping and it's yours. Not sure how cheap they are new, shipping from Canada might cost 10 or 15 bucks..

[gbmetcalf]

My foot box

G.

[S Lathrop]

First off you need to move the clevises closer to the tube through the brake pedal. The balance bar needs to be close to level. You should have just enough space so that the clevises do not bind against the tube in normal operation. If you loose a cylinder, the clevis will bind and allow you some braking force. As is is the system will not work at all when you loose a cylinder.

The nuts on the side should be against the barrels that pass through the clevis. That centers the clevis. When you use an adjuster cable, you remove the nuts. I would use 2 Teflon washers above and below the threaded shaft and around the barrel to center the shaft in the clevis.

After you get all that done, I will bet you can use a 90 degree drive or pass the cable behind the clutch.

On my cars, I build the gas pedal with a curved stem that allows clearance for the balance bar cable to pass in front of the accelerator pedal and not interfere in the operation of either pedal.

[FVRacer21]

A lot of the Vees I have seen have the brake adjusters that attach to the master cylinders and move the fulcrum back and forth giving more front or back brake.
In the Mysterian I don't have room for the adjuster cable the way the peddles are.
Has anyone ever used the inline "click valve" style to reduce the rear braking force?
In my legends car I and a valve for each corner... it worked pretty good in that application.

G.

Dave Carr used to say that carburetor was a French word for "leave it alone". Sometimes the same can be said for brake bias. If you remember, most FV in the 60's and 70's used the stock dual VW master with no proportioning. If you need to play with balance, there was a different front and rear wheel cylinder, or you used different shoes, or played with the adjustment. Most FF's through the 70's had an adjustable bias at the pedal, but no remote adjustment - why? most drivers screwed themselves up because they could not remember how many turns and which way they adjusted it. History lesson over.

So, under dry conditions, unless something major changes, most of the time you will set the bias once and leave it there. So you could get by without an adjuster. If it does rain then you have to manually set it. Not perfect, but doable.

The Mysterian I am building has an adjuster and I will take a picture next time I am in the trailer.

Most of the time when you have to change it, it is for rain. Then you have to move the bias to the rear because with not as much weight transfer, you end up with too much on the front. So that means you would have to set the hydraulic adjuster to restrict the rear, then set the balance so that you could adjust the rear in both directions, not just take pressure off. This will result in higher pedal pressure than if you use just the bias bar. Now I wonder if you should put it in the front line so that way you could reduce the front in case of rain.....???? or should you have one front and one rear......

I like the hydraulic method as it is faster and more consistent to set - in theory. The fact that is mostly used in bigger cars and not so much in smaller formula cars, may point to it's effectiveness or lack there of. Maybe someone who is currently using it can chime in.

ChrisZ

[sracing]

We still have the Tilton 90 deg adjuster adapters in stock... Discounted for our retirement sale...

[Tiago Santos]

Personally, the biggest advantage of the adjuster is to set the bias up initially. I can set it close enough in the garage, but I can only get it just right by dialing it in on track..

After that, I don't touch it much unless it rains. But I do know other drivers who will change brake bias on the fly during a qualifying lap, at very specific corners. One of the nearby tracks has a heavy braking zone at the bottom of a fairly steep hill, so moving the bias forward a couple clicks can help. I'm not quite at that point yet, I have bigger things to worry about

[budawe]

I use both adjusters with good success. Balance beam is generally set in shop and fine tuned with hydraulic unit in cockpit. I use a infinite adjuster vs the limited click style. It's saved my butt when it rains on pregrid.

[Bruce Livermore]

I ended up making new pedals for my Mysterian for a couple reasons. One of the reasons was to allow a straight shot at the brake adjuster from the clutch side. I notched out the near side of the new clutch pedal to clear the adjuster cable. It's worked for quite a while... I made the new brake pedal (a couple actually) to give me more "legroom" and to change the ratio just a bit (lower pedal effort).

Basically I used 1" square tubing for the pedals with "bosses" welded in for the pushrod rod end on the clutch and a new adjuster "tube" welded into the brake pedal. I reinforced the brake pedal over the adjuster tube front and back since the adjuster tube basically splits the 1" tubing into 2 parts (I moved it back to the pedal centerline to get that extra leg room). I'll take a picture and post it if I can figure out how, but not tonight.

Bruce