GSXR 600 shifting

[tedsimmons2]

I’d like input on shifting from anyone using a motorcycle (MC) engine in any class.

Why do I need to re-engage the clutch on each down shift? With a sequential shift pattern why can’t I just disengage the transmission and flick the shift mechanism down thru the gears (counting) until I arrive at the gear appropriate for the corner? Match the RPM and engage the clutch. If I don’t match the RPM just right does it really matter as the “slipper clutch” will not allow the rear axle to overdrive the gear selected.

At the one race I’ve done with my F600 the up-shifting was easy but getting the downshifting to work correctly was not. My F600 has a mechanical “blipper” setup that when setup correctly is supposed to work flawlessly and several have had it work properly. If I don’t get it right at the next race during practice I’d like a back-up plan. What I outlined above is what I’m planning to try unless there’s a good reason not to. Thoughts?

[sportech]

Ted, give me a call.

Dave Piontek

[Jnovak]

Ted your cable is not adjusted properly. I suspect that when you are downshifting that the cable is rotating the throttle drum too much and this is over-reving the engine and preventing the downshift. The throttle drum only needs to rotate enough (less than 1/8" off of the idle screw) to make the system work.

Call Dave or me and we can work you thru the procedure.

Also check with Chris Ross, his system works perfectly.

[JerryH]

If I read you correctly you are using the clutch for downshifts. If you have a blipper (or can do the blipping yourself), there is no need to use the clutch at all (except for getting the car moving).

If I have read you incorrectly, then it is a blipper adjustment you need.......so follow Jay's advice.

I do know of a driver or two who do hold the clutch in and row down thru the gears, then match the revs to let out the clutch (in motorcycle powered cars). It works.....but presents a lot of opportunities for not matching the revs and upsetting the car going into a corner.

Jerry Hodges

[ReynardF1000]

I've built and raced a number of cable operated shifting systems and learned the following:

1) The mounting of the cable housing at both ends must be good, solid designs.
2) Friction and/or misalignment need to be eliminated as much as possible.

As for driving without the clutch, you need to spin the engine up to get smooth upshifts and shift down quickly from high, but not too high (!), RPM's to get smooth downshifts.
It takes time, coordination and confidence to shift well with no clutch.
You'll get it. If you have an opportunity, drive a shifterkart. Overspinning a two-stroke engine has FAR less consequences than your four-stroke engine (unless you have a slipper clutch on you Suzuki, which will reduce the possiblity of overspinning the engine by downshifting too soon).
Greg

[jim murphy]

Clint tells me that downshifting takes much more force (pull harder) on the paddle shifter than upshifting and since he is right handed the downshift has been placed on the right side paddle. IF you are left handed, you may want to consider having the downshift on the left side. Little things can make big differences.

HTH,
Jim

[jim murphy]

Both George Fox and Clint have driven a Honda as well as the GSXR and both have said that the Honda is a MUCH easier/smoother transmission to downshift. I have asked George to post a comparison of the two drivetrains.

Jim