OK, guys I've seen these out there but cant find where to buy a couple/
I'm looking for larger driver friendly knob to adjust the compression for penske remote can in the drivers compartment
Thanks,
OK, guys I've seen these out there but cant find where to buy a couple/
I'm looking for larger driver friendly knob to adjust the compression for penske remote can in the drivers compartment
Thanks,
Terry Abbott
2-Vector FV's
1-SM Miata
Contact Angelo Zarra at ANZE Suspension. He should be able to help you out, or know where to point you.
Tel: (516) 671-3960
If you are unable to get in touch, send me an email to wvelkoff@anzesuspension.com and I will do my best to get you an answer as soon as possible.
Thanks!
Will Velkoff
Van Diemen RF00 / Honda FF
Penske can usually supply anything you need. Download the manual for your shocks, then give them a call when you are looking at the same parts list and they can usually help you out.
http://www.penskeshocks.com/Home.php
(610) 375-6180
Ok I'm Not having much luck.....I know there out there ....
Here is a picture of my canister, I'm looking for a larger knob to adjust the compression
The. HI speed knob is Ok
Dave ...Penske has nothing ..
Will ...nobody answered
Terry Abbott
2-Vector FV's
1-SM Miata
Last resort... have one machined
"An analog man living in a digital world"
Richard at ICP made some knobs to actuate the hex adjuster with fingers on the front of Citations because it was very difficult to get a wrench on the hex adjuster. I am certain that he could make a larger knob for the low speed adjuster as well.
I know it seems like a great deal to have the canisters in the cockpit so you can play with the knobs. Problem is you down grade the functioning of the shock by doing so. The distance from the main body of the shock to the canister is critical and long is not good. That is why you do not see remote mounted reservoirs on modern shocks. In fact Penske makes several shock designs that do not have external reservoirs.
Regarding Steve's comment about remote canisters,I was told the same by a Nascar shock guy who also said that our cars(fv) can't create the shaft velocity to make a compression knob change meaningful. Any comments on that?
Your information is correct. Most FV rear installations have such low motion ratios that even though both wheels move the shock, the shaft velocities never get very high.
The canister damping works because oil is displaced by the shaft as it is pushed into the damper. For the canister to be effective, you need to move the shaft into the damper both fast and some distance. Neither is a characteristic of a FV. This is worse with the "zero-roll resistance" rear ends that most FV use, the shaft velocity and movement is even less than one might expect.
Since it reacts twice as much as a dual shock set up wouldn't the velocity on a zero roll approach twice that of a non ? ie. Say a single wheel shock with a 2in / sec movement. In the zero roll wouldn't the shock speed increase given the same road bump? I understand that in cornering only, what you say is true due to "zero roll".
The low-speed is designed to be turned with fingers. I never had a problem turning it with nomex gloves on.
ICP makes (or has made) knobs that go on the hi-speed adjuster. I previously used plastic gears (about 1.3" from a surplus store) which I filed out for the inner hex.
In order to minimize reservoir hose length, I have used extension rods and even a brake-bias adjuster cable configuration for remote lo-speed adjustment. All you need is a 1/4" diameter shaft with a cross hole that fits into the knob center. Put the shaft inside and use a cottor pin to connect it. I expect you could turn down all kinds of generic plastic knobs so they have 1/4" protrusions, but unless you are extending it, I don't see the need.
Last edited by problemchild; 09.07.13 at 10:13 AM.
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That is true for a bump but not for roll. As a FV corners, the rear may feel like it is moving a lot but rolling motion does not move the shock shaft. The combination of roll and bump that a FV does in cornering does not give a predictable movement of the shock relative to the movement of the chassis.
Ok, Gotcha
The Nascar shock guy told me that in view of a less than 3" per second shaft velocity to just leave the bump on the first position and forget it. Preferably,get rid of the long hose,which he said he could get to jump around his dyno bench until it fell to the floor due to the pulses needlessly transmitted from the shock on the dyno. Clearly reduced the shock efficiency. Any agreement Mr. L?
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