Tracking a FST Conversion

[csingletary01]

This may be boring to a lot of you, but this may show everyone that might be sitting on the Bench how easy a conversion can be. First picture is racing as a legal FV at Waterford Hills. The rest are of the modifying of the beam to FST conversion, and last but not least a FST Engine ready to drop in less Dry Sump Pump. I will add more phots as we complete items.

[rave motorsports]

Can't wait to see the progress Chuck.
Gotta love a class that provides competitive racing weekend after weekend and still leave gas money to get home. Lol. Looking forward to getting together in a couple of weeks to put together our Midwest FST Series for next year.

[Bill Bonow]

This may be boring to a lot of you.

Chuck,

As a guy who has posted a few "FST conversion progress" type threads, I can promise you that very few (if any) will be bored. These threads get large viewership. People love to look at photos and read about "how I did it". It's good stuff, has clearly helped people to understand what we are doing and grow the class.

Please post at will.

[csingletary01]

Completed Beam Mods, height Adjuster and SR Racing front shock mounts. The mounts remove with two bolt if I wanted to make changes in the future. I had to install adjuster on upper beam as it would have interfered with pedal mounting plate on bottom tube. I have included photo that shows this. Will mount 5/8" sway bar in lower. Take to powder coater tomorrow (My Sponsor) and get coated in Silver. Now on to finishing the new forward roll bar down tubes

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

If you don't mind a suggestion, I wouldn't powder coat the beam. I powder lots of parts on my cars, but not the beam. 1) Powder involves heat to cure and will ruin the inner turkey leg bushings. 2) the beam is the most likely part to get damaged in a shunt. Too many potential issues and high likelihood it will be the first part replaced.

[csingletary01]

I was going to install new outer bearings but had not thought about inner bushings. What are the inner bushings constructed of?

[BLS]

What are the inner bushings constructed of?

Something that will not tolerate the heat of powder coating

Usually made of micarta. You could plan to replace them, might be worn anyway.

[Mark Filip]

Also powder coat hides cracks I like to use paint on everything and it's easy to touch up. Power coat is good for stuff like cooler bracket, spacers, dash panels things that are not under much stress. At least thats how I have also looked at it. When I used to race Kart we would take the factory powder coat off and paint the chassis with a light color rattle can very thin just so we could see cracks.

[csingletary01]

On advice from a lot of you I decided against Powder Coat on Beam. I hand sanded and painted. Beam is now fully finished and ready for reassembly. I will take the trailing arms in today and get old ball joints pressed out so that I can bead blast and paint before I put new ball joints pressed in. Should have front end reassembled with brakes by end of week. On to completing front roll bar down tubes.

[rave motorsports]

Looking good Chuck. Progress on the Jacer up here in Kansas this weekend. Motor is all but out, Jacer didn't make that easy whole rear end has to come out as near as we can figure. Headed your way in the toterhome today Chuck to pickup the trailer north of Ponca City.

[csingletary01]

have a great trip down to PC.

[csingletary01]

Front Beam is assembled and on to the disc brake install. I also removed Megaphone from headers and fabricated a straight pipe that is removable for future tuning.

[csingletary01]

Completed front brake and wheel fit up. I will lube up and do final assembly.

[Stan Clayton]

Awesome report, Chuck...and thanks for the pics.

[rave motorsports]

Wow super progress Chuck. We are just now finding the time to tear into the Jacer motor but Jim's kicking butt on the new Evolution. 2014 is gonna be a blast!

[csingletary01]

the rack is mounted. I will pick up swagged aluminum tie rods tomorrow at Smiley's Racing. Will completed Roll Bar down tubes over weekend. That should be the end of major fabrication. I will also fit engine and transmission this weekend to measure for Dry Sump tank. Will order tires from Jim S Tuesday so I can lower to ground by next weekend. Still want to test by late July. RA in August is still the mission

[Jean-Sebastien Stoezel]

It's difficult to see from the pictures, but what seems to appear here is that the rack seems awfully close to the back of the pedals, even more considering the pedals are currently pointing forward, in what seems to be the resting position (I take the wood plate is were you want to have the pedals to rest).

I believe there's a couple of things that need to be taken care off here: first the pedals should never go past vertical to ensure proper braking force is transferred to the master cylinders. The pedals should always be angled towards the rear even when fully depressed, to get maximum braking power.
Once the pedals are located you need to ensure proper clearance to allow your feet to move from pedal to pedal, without catching anything. It doesn't have to be much.


Jean

the rack is mounted. I will pick up swagged aluminum tie rods tomorrow at Smiley's Racing. Will completed Roll Bar down tubes over weekend. That should be the end of major fabrication. I will also fit engine and transmission this weekend to measure for Dry Sump tank. Will order tires from Jim S Tuesday so I can lower to ground by next weekend. Still want to test by late July. RA in August is still the mission

[csingletary01]

Pedals are in rearward most mounting position. Lower mount will move forward 1" which changes angle and pedals are adjusted individually rearward now. When they are finally adjusted they will face rearward. I was also limited by the existing chassis/forward tubes to rack placement. When pedals are in the finished position there is enough clearance for the upper part of feet with rack. This is one of the issues a person might have in a FV to FST conversion, there might be some compromises. I did not want to reconfigure the chassis. Thanks as always for the advice and suggestions which is why I am posting the conversion, as I am trying to convince more people to go FST Racing

[csingletary01]

Completed down tubes this weekend. Put them back in same place as originals. Cockpit opening is now FST legal, original opening was only 13" wide. Will now re-contour body around opening. Will set engine and tranny in this week and do measurements to have Dry Sump Tank fabricated. At that point all fabrication will be done. Just disassemble and have frame recoated and start putting together for final time.

[csingletary01]

Started body mock up in poster board today. This is to accommodate the required cockpit opening and new down tubes. Start on Fiberglas/Kevlar work this week. Ordered tires, dry sump pump, and new rear shock Thursday. Should be able to set on ground soon. Still looks like RA is probable.

[csingletary01]

Different view

[rgu]

Great work Chuck

I think that you could easily make it to RA in late August. Good cooling for both heads and oil are really important at RA. First time we went there it took a full week for the motor to finally cool down.

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

You may wish to snap up the second set of head ducts from Jim Nash. The price is insanely low and I think they will fit your car very well

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...978#post396978

[csingletary01]

I set the engine and tranny in for a trail fit. I will have to modify headers and find room for sump tank. I think I can remove Gen Stand and replace with small plate and put sump tank in that area off of fire wall similar to Vee Fans. It is like ten pounds of "stuff" in a five pound bag

[csingletary01]

a few more views

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

I don't think that is the correct exhaust. It is mounted on the car, yes, but it needs mods (mucho) and the original Predator exhaust was under the trans (lower system). You might ask around for one of those systems, will save you a lot of time and troubles.

On the tank, doesn't look to be much room at all. Maybe an inch between the pulley nut and the firewall? I'm also looking at the pump area. Will a dry sump pump fit? I'll email you some pics of John's tank so you can see if it would fit.

[dd46637]

If you can move the firewall to the front side of the roll bar structure you will gain an inch or two.
Dave

[csingletary01]

Thanks for the tank drawing Bill. I agree on the exhaust, I used to work in a shop building headers and there is almost to much to do to these. I wish I could see a photo of headers on a Predator. JR built my set for the Vintage car so he might have to build these, but a photo would be nice. The other issue I have is starter to Rocker issue. I have an indexable Hi torque started still can't find a good position. I am trying to talk to Dennis Beran again and see what he did for a starter. Stock starter is even worse. Bill I will see if I can move firewall forward, but with Hans type device it may change angle too much being recline like I am in car. Bill I will go to work on a cardboard mockup of tank. To fit Dry Sump Pump I will clearance to motor mount.

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

The starter need to be a "toe clamp" situation. That's how the starter was installed on the Predator and that's how we install them on the Evolution. Will send you a pic via email tonight of the stater mount in my Evo. The photo should explain how to install (pic worth a thousand words).

[csingletary01]

Hi All,

Finally bit the bullet and lengthened frame 2". I have included before and after photos. Plated inside and 100 plus plug welds. Bill should have headers from JR by end of week, and can do final measurements for oil tank. Hope to complete new motor mount today. All I have left before paint is two 45 degree gussets for roll bar to be with in 6" of top of hoop and welding will be complete and ready for paint. New fuel cell should be here soon, only leaves sump tank to complete car. On parallel path doing rest of body work. RA might be hard, but will be out this season.

Bill did you find a photo of started toe clamp or were can I purchase one for a gear drive started?

[rgu]

Glad you lengthened the frame Chuck. In the short run this will allow the tall rectangular tank to easily fit. In the long run you can add more to the firewall. Sure hope you can get it together for RA because all the regulars want to meet you.

[rave motorsports]

Looking good Chuck. We will be done with 2 cars and heading to Gateway in October for a double Rational. So we will have cars running in the Midwest yet this year. Meet us there and let's have 3 cars this year. Hell maybe we can get Bill Bonow or some of the others to come and help us kick off FST In a big way.

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

You made the right choice. The addition will add some work now, but you'll be so much happier in the long run.

St. Louis in October? I'm sure I could easily be talked into a trip south. My season is light this year anyway and I'd love to support the Mid-Div FST invasion.

[rave motorsports]

Right now the Mid-Div schedule shows a double regional at Gateway on October 19 & 20. We are going mainly for track time and work out any bugs before next year starts. Of course I bet somebody will end up with an FST track record since to my knowledge nobody has ever run one there. Might be the only shot this old guy has at a track record. Lol

[Bill Bonow]

Bill,

If you check here: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...06&postcount=1

You'll see that Gateway has been previously FST'ed. A few years ago, it was the last stop of the season for a few guy from the Lexington, Kentucky area.

[csingletary01]

Bill do you know a source for the toe clamp for gear drive starter?

JR should ship my headers by end of week once I receive I will send measurements for sump tank.

I am planning Mid-Ohio Hoosier race and would do St. Louis on return. If I don't make RA I will test at Hallet. Great opportunity for an old guy to set lap record in a new car. After doing lots of races at Hallet in a Vintage Vee I think it will make a Great FST Track, can't wait.

[Bill Bonow]

Chuck,

Sorry for the mind dump. I've not seen a toe clamp set up for a gear reduction starter, only for the Bosch or replacement permanent magnet type.

I took a couple of pics of my starter set up to give you an idea.

Hope that helps.

[csingletary01]

Thanks again Bill. JR shipped headers today, should have tank measurements by early next week.

[csingletary01]

I have not posted for a while as I have been working. Doing hopefully last assm. Before tear down to coat frame. Since last update

Lengthened frame 2" and trailing arms and shifter tube
Completed roll bar updates to current opening standards and additional side bars
Relocated rear suspension forward 2" to gain header clearance as not to go under as on Predators in past. This mod allowed mounting of gear drive starter with out toe clip or mods
Completed steering
Fabricated and welded in new front motor mount
JR at Roxanne's built a new set of headers in SS

Waiting on new fuel cell bladder and layout of dry sump tank for Bill B to start fab

To complete
Install new wiring and install electric fuel pump with safety switch
Start body work replacing everything we had to cut away for new roll bar down tubes and rear suspension, this is part I dread the most.
Install dry sump system
Mount front shocks

It finally looks like we will make Mid-Ohio and Gateway in October

[csingletary01]

Here are a few more of progress