Problem w/ wet pan leaking

[glenn cooper]

I have a used "first generation" (rear pickup) generic wet pan that had the bolt hole ovaling done on a few of the holes which then allows the pan to be rotated 180 degrees and updated with the baffle plate and forward pickup.

I've been battling this thing since CoTA, and have had the engine out to reseal, but the problem persists: leakage and a mess to clean up after every session, as oil is coming out alongside the head of one of the pan attaching bolts.

I even cleaned it all up real good and coated the bolt threads, started the bolt, and coated the shank of the bolt as it was tightened. It still will coat the engine floor from sitting a few days, not to mention getting it hot and thinned out!

Does anyone run one of these pans, and experienced the above?
What did you do to fix the problem?

The only thing I see is to pull the pan, and weld up the affected hole(s) and redrill them so there is no longer any bolt hole ovaling.

Arrrrgh!

Coop

[RussMcB]

This first bit of advice is pretty generic and may not be too helpful ...

I've had best luck with the high quality sealants like YamaBond, KawiBond (sp?) and Permatex' "the Right Stuff", available at Napa. That product name doesn't inspire confidence, but it really is very good.

After cleaning the surfaces as much as possible, apply a consistent bead and only tighten the bolts lightly. Let it sit a few hours then do the final torque.

If that doesn't work, maybe machine that one area for an o-ring?

[S Lathrop]

If I understand the problem, you need to add some metal to have a sealing surface. Lab-Metal might be an option. Clean the pan and etch the problem area with Metal Prep or similar stuff. Use some combination of PVA and wax to protect areas that you don't want the material to stick to. Then assemble with the filler material.

Lab-Metal may not be able to deal with the heat from the engine oil. So you might have to make you own stuff using aluminum powder and a high temperature epoxy.

This should give sufficient support to the sealing material to get the job done.

[LLoshak]

Glen,

Next time you have it off, I'd also try to check the surface for flatness.

Easiest way. Glass table or MDF particle board , lay big sheet of light grit sand paper down, add a bit of water and rub sealing surface on paper in X and Z strokes a couple of times. Then inspect that surface. Anywhere the paper didn't touch, its warped. Keep sanding until flat again.

[Daryl DeArman]

Stat-o-seal washer or Hexseal fasteners?

[glenn cooper]

The old, or what I call first generation wet pans had actual tunnels bored into them straight up from the bottom for about an inch, at which point the tunnel gets a floor, and the hole continues to the top edge of the pan.
Due to the ovaling of a few of pan holes, this hole now is oblong
My latest gen Moon pan (which is of course on my spare engine!) has the pan rail milled out/relieved so that it attaches with short bolts, no "tunneling".

I suppose I could possibly find a small enough diameter statoseal, but highly doubt it as the tunnel is barely larger than the head of the M6 allen bolt used to secure the pan.

I don't think it's a warpage issue, but will definitely check that.
Previous owner claims to have never had an issue w/ sealing, so can't imagine it warped in shipping to me!

It's not leaking at the mating surface, rather down through the tunnel and out.

My car does not have a removable engine floor, so I can't do a thing w/ the engine installed, other than run a diaper and change it out over the weekend.

PS As a single, never married fella who has never, ever changed a diaper, some help from my bro's who have would be welcome

[Northwind]

Coop,

It is the thin wall condition for the bolt journal as you have said.Probably a small fracture or pore letting oil seep thru. Been there when I ovaled the holes on my pan. Back when I had the thread about building my car I put a word of caution out to people that were reworking these early pans from rear trap to front trap. I machined thru the side and had to weld in aluminum material and redrill the proper hole location. It is the only reliable way to keep the pan from leaking. No problems with mine after repair.

[glenn cooper]

an answer I can get my head around.

Thanks Dan - I'll have a really close look at it after next weekends race.

GC

[Daryl DeArman]

I suppose I could possibly find a small enough diameter statoseal, but highly doubt it as the tunnel is barely larger than the head of the M6 allen bolt used to secure the pan.

Sounds like a M6 Hexseal fastener might do the trick.

Such as:

http://www.apmhexseal.com/ProdSearch...ls.aspx?PID=87

[glenn cooper]

the problem lies in the fact that the hole in the pan is no longer round, but ovaled.

[crowe motorsports]

Mmmmmmm? Two wins at Sebring, two at Road Atlanta and two at VIR? Excellent year!!!! Everyone complaining about grip and misting on their shields? Mmmmmm? Your car is British Racing Green and as I well know, any British production race car always leaks oil.

Just kidding. I mean really. I am just kidding.

Jeez, Road Atlanta next week at the F1000 Championship Series event/F1000 Festival. I hope we can hang in there with you at your home track!

I heard JB Weld is a popular fix and re drill holes.

See you next week.

Michael

[Daryl DeArman]

the problem lies in the fact that the hole in the pan is no longer round, but ovaled.

Sorry, missed the obvious.

[glenn cooper]

I have been competing there for a few years!

Mmmmmmm? Two wins at Sebring, two at Road Atlanta and two at VIR? Excellent year!!!! Everyone complaining about grip and misting on their shields? Mmmmmm? Your car is British Racing Green and as I well know, any British production race car always leaks oil.

Just kidding. I mean really. I am just kidding.

Jeez, Road Atlanta next week at the F1000 Championship Series event/F1000 Festival. I hope we can hang in there with you at your home track!

I heard JB Weld is a popular fix and re drill holes.

See you next week.

Michael

[glenn cooper]

T1, Rd A, Baby! (Yes, that really is air under the fr tire. Them ol' vintage bikes didn't handle so flashy).

[Nicholas Belling]

Totally wicked !!

[JohnPaul]

Damn Coop! You are OG old school