FF at a Pro Solo - Tips and Tricks

[Neil_Roberts]

A lot of people disconnect both anti-roll bars when it rains, but that is a dangerous way to soften the suspension. The front bar is almost always a lot stiffer than the rear, so disconnecting them both makes the setup a lot looser.

I recommend higher ride heights to reduce the risk of getting stuck in the mud when you fall off, and higher tire pressures to increase contact patch pressure, but otherwise run it as-is.

[DanW]

A lot of people disconnect both anti-roll bars when it rains, but that is a dangerous way to soften the suspension. The front bar is almost always a lot stiffer than the rear, so disconnecting them both makes the setup a lot looser.

I recommend higher ride heights to reduce the risk of getting stuck in the mud when you fall off, and higher tire pressures to increase contact patch pressure, but otherwise run it as-is.

Agree about the ARBs. Most solo courses I have run there is little danger from mud farming, but often there is standing water. As for wet pressures, don't you want rain tires to heat up to work best?

Thanks,
Dan Wise

[george schilling]

Sho, wasn't there talk of you moving to the left coast? We'd love to have you out here. The west coast C-mod gang is growing.

[Neil_Roberts]

As for wet pressures, don't you want rain tires to heat up to work best?

We would like them to heat up. Unfortunately for us, water conducts heat really well, so the tire temperature will never get much hotter than the temperature of the water on the ground, no matter how wild the driving style is.

On wet pavement, we want to maximize the contact patch pressure in order to force water away from the contact patch. That is the opposite of what we want on dry pavement, so that's why high tire pressures in the wet are opposite of what we ususally want.

[RudeDude]

Sho, wasn't there talk of you moving to the left coast? We'd love to have you out here. The west coast C-mod gang is growing.

George, the talk of my moving to the west coast didn't materialize. I ended up moving my office to New Jersey from Long Island. I am very aware of the growth of the CM competitors on the west coast and wish I could be a part of it. Bill Schenker constantly rubs in how great an autocross environment you guys have over there. I had my first and only event before the NJ Pro last Saturday. It was my first since October 2012!

[DougW]

Spring Nationals was epic fun. It was good to put faces to some of the names I have been hearing. The car was great, my driving wholly inadequate...but still big fun.

We took 52 runs over the four day pair of events, changed tires 4 times, scrapped the tires off 100 times, washed the car off (Jackie's 65 mph spin in the rain at the Pro finish got mud everywhere. She is still smiling).

We learned a bunch at this event. Cleaning off seam goo (OPR- which frankly doesn't seem much like OPR. It is seam sealer IMHO). Learning to launch on grippy concrete. Rain driving, etc. The timing of my runs meant I was able to watch Jon C and Brandon L. run at the tour. Very instructive.

A friendly class and a good home to be sure. Thanks to the Clements and the Lavender's our Texas bud's the Saunder's, Nick M. and Jeff Kiesel (he has more tools in grid than I own) for all the help and advice.

A question - What do you folks use to lube heim joints after they get wet. Is there a magic water displacing, non dirt attracting, non abrasive lubricant?

A quick search brings up lock oil, various gun oils, WD40, white lithium grease...

Time to go prep for a local event. Next Stop Blytheville.


Doug

[Dick R.]

Doug,

Glad to hear you had a Great time at Lincoln and that you are going to Blytheville. Guess I can sign up too so you have someone to beat.

It looks like I'll be the only CM car at the Toledo Pro running against a bunch of FM F500's and a kit car of some sort. However, the site is great!

Heim joints do not get lubed AFAIK. The Teflon doesn't need the lube plus lube attracts grit.

Dick
CM 85

[Jim Garry]

Cleaning off seam goo (OPR- which frankly doesn't seem much like OPR. It is seam sealer IMHO). Learning to launch on grippy concrete.

+1!

[DougW]

Dick,

If you think I can beat you then you haven't looked closely at my times.
Definitely come to Blytheville though. More FF is more fun! I hope Blytheville scrubs the OPR from my tires. Jackie and I are wait listed for Toledo.

Ok I wont lube the heims. I'll just clean up the rest.

Doug

[Don Elzinga]

A question - What do you folks use to lube heim joints after they get wet. Is there a magic water displacing, non dirt attracting, non abrasive lubricant?

A quick search brings up lock oil, various gun oils, WD40, white lithium grease...

Doug

On the autocross car, which sees fresh water with no salt, I use teflon lined joints and generally leave them dry. On a sled, where salt is a factor, I use spray gun oil. Displaces water like the WD40, but also lubricates. Biggest thing to check on the FF after a rain event is the CV joints on the halfshafts. If they ingest water, they will rust and fail. If you open them right after the event you can just leave them open in a warm dry place for a few days and the water will evaporate. If there's any trace of rust color in the grease, dis-assemble, clean and repack. If the balls are pitted, it's time for new joints.

Don

[Dick R.]

On the autocross car, which sees fresh water with no salt, I use teflon lined joints and generally leave them dry. On a sled, where salt is a factor, I use spray gun oil. Displaces water like the WD40, but also lubricates. Biggest thing to check on the FF after a rain event is the CV joints on the halfshafts. If they ingest water, they will rust and fail. If you open them right after the event you can just leave them open in a warm dry place for a few days and the water will evaporate. If there's any trace of rust color in the grease, dis-assemble, clean and repack. If the balls are pitted, it's time for new joints.

Don

Don,

Good info. What grease do you use for the CV's. I tow mine on an open trailer through heavy rain a lot and haven't had a problem (maybe I better check). I"ve got conventional CV's and "aero" boots. I MIGHT have had a "water" problem 20 years ago with Redline (doesn't make sense ) and switched to Swepco.

Doug,

Have to bail on Blytheville due to a higher priority conflict unfortunately. I do hope to stick around after the Toledo Pro to run Wilmington/Peru the next weekend. Off to the DC Pro tomorrow morning!

Dick

[Don Elzinga]

Don,

Good info. What grease do you use for the CV's. I tow mine on an open trailer through heavy rain a lot and haven't had a problem (maybe I better check). I"ve got conventional CV's and "aero" boots. I MIGHT have had a "water" problem 20 years ago with Redline (doesn't make sense ) and switched to Swepco.

Doug,

Have to bail on Blytheville due to a higher priority conflict unfortunately. I do hope to stick around after the Toledo Pro to run Wilmington/Peru the next weekend. Off to the DC Pro tomorrow morning!

Dick

Dick,
I bought a tube of RedLine synthetic CV grease that I only use for that, the nadella bearings in the rockers, clutch pilot brg and the end balls on the rear stab bar. Still about half left after 14 years with the Reynard. I have other friends who tow on open trailers, and I haven't heard of any of them ingesting water into the CVs during a tow. The joints just aren't breathing as much as they do when the car is on course. I've found that the old-fashioned bellows boots seem to suck a lot less water than the modern aero boots do. Not sure why. I can't run them on the inboard joints though because they foul the bodywork.
Don

[DougW]

On the autocross car, which sees fresh water with no salt, I use teflon lined joints and generally leave them dry. On a sled, where salt is a factor, I use spray gun oil. Displaces water like the WD40, but also lubricates. Biggest thing to check on the FF after a rain event is the CV joints on the halfshafts. If they ingest water, they will rust and fail. If you open them right after the event you can just leave them open in a warm dry place for a few days and the water will evaporate. If there's any trace of rust color in the grease, dis-assemble, clean and repack. If the balls are pitted, it's time for new joints.

Don

Just back from an a long non-racing vacation. Thanks for the info Don!