Bench priming

[glenn cooper]

It may be that everyone has been doing this and I'm late to the party, but...
It hit me the other day that I could fab up a few -10 male ends and a section of clear tube that would allow me to connect the oil lines together, and priming the engine oil system right on my lift cart by putting 12 volts dc to the starter w/ a jumper lead from a battery, neg side to ground on cases.

It worked like a charm and is a bunch easier as you have complete access to the oil filter which I usually leave a bit loose until I see oil weep, etc...

All I did was cap the ends of the lines and install away...

[racerdad2]

Cool

[Northwind]

That's think'n with your dip-stick.

[starkejt]

Interesting. Not what I expected based on the thread title, though.

[glenn cooper]

OK Josh, my first challenge of the year to you is to dig through your massive files of meme's and post up exactly what you were thinking "Bench Priming" was.

I'll give you 10 minutes... 9:59, 9:58...

[starkejt]

No meme. But this is a bench priming tool.

[R. Pare]

Huh. Never knew you could, or even needed to, prime a bench.

[awegrzyn]

What was/are the exact reason(s) to prime the engine with oil in your case, and why would you prime it on the bench?

[brownslane]

What was/are the exact reason(s) to prime the engine with oil in your case, and why would you prime it on the bench?

So that the engine is ready to go when installed. Sometimes it is difficult to build oil pressure in a fresh engine. So priming the engine and storing it with a "wet" system often makes the engine change faster. This is especially welcome on Saturday night.

Tom

[stonebridge20]

An old fire extingusher with a shrader valve tapped into it and a ball valve with -8 or -10 hose makes for a pretty good poor mans accusump pre oiler. Unscrew the ball valve from the "tank" and fill with oil. Screw the ball valve and hose back on the tank. Pressurize the "tank" to 20psi. Hook the hose up to the oil inlet and hold the tank up side down. Release the ball valve. Presto,........engine is primed without running the cam dry by cranking the engine over with the starter and wiping the cam lube off.

[alp]

you could fab in one of these units then it is just spun with a regular drill
http://www.jegs.com/p/Peterson-Fluid...63358/10002/-1

[racerdad2]

Great product.

[glenn cooper]

I may have not made my case w/ the initial post:
Getting the basically dry stock m/c engine oil pump to prime is the purpose to my starting this thread.
I basically leave the oil filter a tad loose to allow any trapped air to be purged, and spin the engine w/ the starter.

Once the oil starts to weep/pour at that location I tighten and safety wire the filter and continue to spin the engine until I see oil come out of the oil check bolt above # 1 exhaust pipe outlet on GSXR (10mm headed bolt w/ copper washer beneath), then tighten and safety wire THAT bolt/

At that point I feel confident that the engine is ready to be installed and fired up.

Way back when I saw car guys packing the oil pump w/ Vaseline or some such goo so that the OP would build immediately.

M/C engine builders to my knowledge do not do this, although I have seen some m/c engine builders actually spin the pump by hand (w/ pan on and some oil in the pan) prior to installing the clutch, thereby priming the pump.

I don't think any of the tools mentioned will prime the OIL PUMP, rather the balance of the oil system.

It is my personal belief that in the early days of F1000, there were engine failures quite soon after installation that were due to the proper priming procedure (PPP) not being followed.

Perhaps a combined approach incorporating the oil filled fire bottle/Peterson gadget and my method would be even better?

[alp]

I drag race a turbo VW Beetle and a few guys have pressured systems to prime their drag engines. I would think also the procedures for dry sump versus wet sump would also be slightly different.