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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    Default Brake Pressure Sensor Installation

    My current car (RT-40) will be my first with brake pressure sensors, and I am seeking advice and/or comments regarding the various installation options. I know that I can always install a "T" fitting into the front and rear lines, and then run short hoses to the sensors. I was also considering the use of stacked banjo fittings on each MC, with one banjo for the usual brake lines, and the other banjo directly supplying a line which goes to a pressure sensor.

    I was also wondering how critical the sensor location is regarding the occasional need to bleed air out of the sensor supply line.

    Any comments are appreciated.

  2. #2
    Fallen Friend Swift17's Avatar
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    Default Brake " manifold"

    Please see attached ...........

    Call Ellen at Veracity Racing Data - 805-238-1699 or E-mail ellen@veracitydata.com to discuss your needs.
    Last edited by Swift17; 01.29.14 at 4:46 AM.

  3. #3
    Contributing Member TimW's Avatar
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    Default

    I use a double ended banjo (not a double stack) on the master and then bleed the line to the sensor upon installation. I usually don't have to bleed again unless there is a problem.
    ------------------
    'Stay Hungry'
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  4. #4
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TimW View Post
    I use a double ended banjo (not a double stack) on the master and then bleed the line to the sensor upon installation. I usually don't have to bleed again unless there is a problem.
    Tim,

    Do you also use the double-ended banjo on the front brakes? On my car the two ends of the double banjo are used for the lines going to the individual front corners.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member TimW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Ross View Post
    Tim,

    Do you also use the double-ended banjo on the front brakes? On my car the two ends of the double banjo are used for the lines going to the individual front corners.
    No, on the DB6 there is a mount in the bulkhead for a mounted T, so one line from the master to the T, then one line to the sensor. Each caliper has a line from the T. Same on the rear, though the T is not bulkhead back there.
    ------------------
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  6. #6
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    Default

    I was looking around for ideas a while ago (so I could make my own..) and Nathan at Radon had a similar manifold that was pretty cheap and should work perfectly. I remember thinking it would be cheaper to buy his than spend the time making mine, but I wanted an excuse to machine something

  7. #7
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    Default

    I just used the Russell banjo bolt with the integrated 1/8 NPT (IIRC) female thread in the head, and thread the sensor into it. Maybe I'm missing what you're after.

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timos View Post
    I just used the Russell banjo bolt with the integrated 1/8 NPT (IIRC) female thread in the head, and thread the sensor into it. Maybe I'm missing what you're after.
    That would work. Where can I find this mysterious "Russell" bolt?

  9. #9
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    Believe it or not, it's typically used as a Harley brake light switch adapter and can be found in some bike shops.

    Summit fails to point out the 1/8" NPT part of this - must annoy a lot of folks thinking they're getting a normal banjo.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-R40505/

    or search "Russell R40505" on amazon or ebay for more description. 3/8-24 banjo with 1/8 NPT fitting. 10mm washers (why mix dimensions???)

    I've had no problem with this on two Atlantics. No weeping, failures, ... the chrome part bugs me but lately I have been feeling like I should maybe chrome the engine and switch to a black leather driving suit with a kaiser helmet.


    ... oh yeah, for those in vintage organizations (SOVREN) that require brake lights on formula cars (I think this is silly, personally), this is way easier than plumbing in a T. Just buy this and a hydraulic brake light switch and you are done (except for wiring it into the rain light circuit).
    Last edited by timos; 07.12.12 at 11:29 AM. Reason: additional info

  10. #10
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    Thanks, Tim......great info. Did you have any problems with sensor reliability when mounted in this manner?

  11. #11
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    So far no issues. I'm using a MyChron MSI style sensor which is fairly low mass, so it doesn't stress the banjo or the sensor. It's a little noisy, I don't know for sure if that's due to rigid mounting or other reasons. It doesn't matter for my purposes (driver coaching).

  12. #12
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    Hmm.....just pulled up the spec sheet for my Pi pressure sensors. Looks like they use 3/8-24 male threads instead of 1/8 NPT. So I would need an additional adapter to use the Russell banjo bolt. I'll see if I can find a male 1/8 NPT to female 3/8-24 adapter.

  13. #13
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    Check for clearance if your banjo points in an unfortunate direction...

  14. #14
    Senior Member Gary_T's Avatar
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    From what I've heard/seen the MSI pressure sensors (at least engine oil press) don't like solid mount and the vibrations.

    What is the max PSI that we see on FC cars for brake pressures?

    Thanks,
    Gary Tholl
    #24 BlurredVisionRacing

  15. #15
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    Good point. Yes, I would never do this for oil pressure, with MSI or VDO or any other gauge. Engines really vibrate!

    tim

  16. #16
    Contributing Member Rick Ross's Avatar
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    I found some 1/8NPT male to 3AN female adapters at Summit that I can use with the previously mentioned Russell banjo bolts. The plan is to just screw the pressure sensors directly down into the AN adapters and banjo bolts, thus essentially mounting the sensors directly to the master cylinders. We'll see how it works out........

    Thanks to Tim and others for the good help.

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