Convex mirrors or not?

[JohnPaul]

My mirrors don't stay tight no matter what I try. I need to try new ones. Does anyone suggest any brand/type? and I was also thinking about convex mirrors but alot of people say don't because of the whole "things are closer than they appear" thing that doesn't sit well with me. is this true, any suggestions etc?

[Thomas Copeland]

I can't recommend you any mirrors because I think I've tried them all at one point and every one I owned began to come apart after about two weekends. They are unbelivibly fragile. One wrong twist and...... I had some real duct-taped disasters hanging off my car at various times. The only ones I've ever known to last are those scary ugly tank style ones that I've seen on some older model Formula Madzas.

I guess only suggestion is to stock plenty.

I actually preferred the convex mirrors because they allowed me a wider field of view. I needed it to see those dive bombing FA's when they came up on me (especially after the crest at turn 2 Laguna where they had about 50mph on my FC). Being in a FB probably don't have to worry as much. Anyone with normal depth perception should be able to get used to them.

[glenn cooper]

Yo JP, my car came with flat glass mirrors and I could not stand it.
They offered an extremely limited field of vision.
Pegasus offers convex lenses that you can use with the SPA mirrors; the glass is glued or siliconed in place and can come out w/o too much grief.

If your car has SPA mirrors on it, the replacement lens route would be the way to go.

GC

[RobLav]

Most definitely convex. Once you use them, the flat ones seem weird.

[JohnPaul]

Yo JP, my car came with flat glass mirrors and I could not stand it.
They offered an extremely limited field of vision.
Pegasus offers convex lenses that you can use with the SPA mirrors; the glass is glued or siliconed in place and can come out w/o too much grief.

If your car has SPA mirrors on it, the replacement lens route would be the way to go.

GC

Ok, convex seems like the way to go, but do the SPA mirrors stay in place? My mirrors start flopping around at speed no matter how much you tighten them. I need mirrors that don't move once they are set. I was actually thinking about the convex MC "pig spotters" because they are not adjustable but I'm not really sure they'd work right.
BTW: this really is great group of guys here, people help in every way. I just want to thank everyone for helping me with all the dumb questions I have. I really have a bunch more but I'm trying to limit it to 1 a day so I don't wear out my welcome!

[DanW]

Ok, convex seems like the way to go, but do the SPA mirrors stay in place? My mirrors start flopping around at speed no matter how much you tighten them. I need mirrors that don't move once they are set. I was actually thinking about the convex MC "pig spotters" because they are not adjustable but I'm not really sure they'd work right.
BTW: this really is great group of guys here, people help in every way. I just want to thank everyone for helping me with all the dumb questions I have. I really have a bunch more but I'm trying to limit it to 1 a day so I don't wear out my welcome!

I agree about convex. The flat mirrors don't have the field of view for me (old and in the way). The flat mirrors cost me a rear upright.

The SPA mirrors are held in place with a hex head setscrew at the base where it attaches to the bodywork. Three holes a side must be drilled, two for the holding screws, one for access to the large setscrew under the base. The large setscrew holds the ball end of the mirror stalk. Another smaller setscrew is on the top of the mirror and keeps the mirror from turning on the stalk. Yes, they will eventually loosen some. You just retighten as needed

I keep mine set so they will move if I accidentally bump them while climbing in or out of the car, but will stay in place on track. No sense in snapping off a $70 mirror 'cause I'm clumsy.

All mirrors vibrate from engine-car vibration, no matter which brand or type.

[ghickman]

JP
The Spa Convex mirrors are probably the best mirror for the dollars.

Something that helps the Spa mirrors is to make an aluminum doubler and bond it to the inside of the drivers panel where the mirror mounts. You can use the mirror base as a pattern for this. This really helps keep the vibration down and also keeps the fiberglass from cracking around the base.

Another idea is get Ben Cooper to make you DP04 owners some trick F1 style mirrors....he's got the skills to make that happen.

GH
FB #76

[Richard Dziak]

JP:

I have SPA mirrors on the Phoenix F1000. I do not know if these mirrors are any different from what others are suggesting. I have NEVER had any problems with the mirrors, just a minor tightening over a 3 yr period maybe once or twice.

Contact Dustin over at Phoenix as he sells parts for the F1000 cars. he may have just what you need.

[formulasuper]

You could try one flat lense on the left side, for better distance viewing, & one convex on the right side for dive bombers. You may have to swap sides depending on the track.

[brownslane]

John Paul, I think the main problem you may be having is that of vibration. If you cannot keep the mirrors from moving, then they will always be hard to use and will always find a way to shake themselves apart.

If you look at where Richard has mounted his mirrors, they are affixed within an inch or so of the body joint between the cockpit and the nose. Because this body panel is reinforced and has a mounting bulkhead right there, the result will be a (relatively) vibration-free location. If your mirrors are mounted on a panel that is not supported this well it will vibrate a lot. You might want to just try a piece of foam padding (the high-density roll-bar kind) between a chassis bar and the mirror mount. Be sure that the foam is actually compressed a bit when the bodywork is installed. This may well reduce the resonance enough to address the vibration problems. If so, you can look at fabricating a more stable and permanent support.

A source for this kind of foam is the Home Depot water pipe insulation. It is light, closed cell foam, and cheap.

Good luck.
Tom


PS. I build my own mirrors. All I use is a piece of 3/4 aluminum dowel, thread one end for the bodywork attachment point, the other end I center drill and thread for a rod end. The rod end screws into the dowel and the eye is the point that I mount an aluminum bolt (or dowel) for the mirror. The source of my mirrors is the mylar convex 'stick-on' mirrors they sell in Pep Boys and such. If the rod end is a little loose, all I do is tighten it up with a few well-place punch divots..and then test. Still too loose? just a few more whacks on the punch and the rod end is tight. Nothing to loosen up, stays adjustable, and you can build the mirror stalk as long as you wish, so a custom fit. I made a mold years ago from somebody's Spa cover and so I just make'em up as needed.

[kea]

Convex is the only way, as you have now been told.
We stock both the SPA and Racetech brand, convex lense, single seater mirrors. Similar size, yet different in mounting. Lately I've had a rash of customers who had one (SPA) mirror become un-screwed (at the mirror housing) during a race. One was lucky enough to have a corner worker retrieve it from out on the course. Haven't seen this with the Racetech.

[BWC54]

I lost 2 convex lenses from SPA mirrors. One was in a race. Now the first thing I do with a new SPA mirror is pop the lens out and re-install it using a good amount of silicone adhesive.

[10rmotor]

The lenses in the spa mirror enclosures will pop out with vibration, so lay some clear RTV sealer around the edges to keep the mirror attached to the enclosure.