Re-Furbishing 3 Piece Racing Wheels

[swiftdrivr]

I used Jabsco paint stripper on my wheels. The Hayashis did great. The 215s showed no effect at all. Not a ripple. Then I used acrylic bead blasting. Again, the Hayashis are ready for NDT, but there was no effect on the 215s. I think perhaps the 215s were not painted, but maybe given the chromate conversion treatment. This is a guess, as I have never even seen this used, but it would explain the lack of results.
So, the options I see are;
1] NDT as they are, assuming the treatment is bonded to the metal and won't affect the results.
2] use glass bead or some other more aggressive media and try blasting again.
3} Insert your idea here.

Question 2;
The Hayashis have distinct grooves left from the splined bolts. I have had no luck tracking down a source for thse bolts [ see picture in post 76 above ] Placing smaller bolts [3/16 may fit, posibly smaller required] seems reasonable, but leaves the problem of the grooves acting as stress risers. How big of a risk is this? Is it worth the expence of having a machine shop ream the hole, then finding a shoulder bolt to fit [if I even can?] Or should I just resign myself to having really nice looking trailer wheels and part with the cash for panasports.

Thanks for your ideas,
Jim

[DaveW]

I used Jabsco paint stripper on my wheels. The Hayashis did great. The 215s showed no effect at all. Not a ripple. Then I used acrylic bead blasting. Again, the Hayashis are ready for NDT, but there was no effect on the 215s. I think perhaps the 215s were not painted, but maybe given the chromate conversion treatment. This is a guess, as I have never even seen this used, but it would explain the lack of results.
So, the options I see are;
1] NDT as they are, assuming the treatment is bonded to the metal and won't affect the results.

I would just NDT as they are - it will still detect any cracks.

use glass bead or some other more aggressive media and try blasting again.
3} Insert your idea here.

Question 2;
The Hayashis have distinct grooves left from the splined bolts. I have had no luck tracking down a source for thse bolts [ see picture in post 76 above ] Placing smaller bolts [3/16 may fit, posibly smaller required] seems reasonable, but leaves the problem of the grooves acting as stress risers.

I would drill out to #10 or 1/4" if necessary and use #10 or 1/4" bolts, depending on the original hole size. The area the spline grooves are in is not a highly-stressed area, so any groove remnants will not be a problem.
Remember that they originally had the spline grooves, and the bolts were a tight fit, so the stress there was higher as they were originally assembled.

How big of a risk is this? Is it worth the expence of having a machine shop ream the hole, then finding a shoulder bolt to fit [if I even can?] Or should I just resign myself to having really nice looking trailer wheels and part with the cash for panasports.

Don't use shoulder bolts - they are not good for clamping (in tension they will be subject to fatigue at the reduced cross-section at the end of the shoulder), and clamping is what you want the bolts to do in this application. Also, shoulder bolts are a VERY tight fit if the holes are reamed, and you would likely find that the tolerances on the bolt locations would not allow the wheels to be reassembled..

Thanks for your ideas,
Jim

[swiftdrivr]

[FONT=Verdana]To get the facts organized, I've redone EJ's original post with what I think are the answers given in the thread.

The final "truth" when it comes to the process and material(s) to be used to refurbish and re-coat racing wheels. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
Remove the centers from the rims –
Strip off paint, using " JABSCO PREMIUM or AIRCRAFT stripper, someone soaked theirs in ACETONE[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]Get them "blasted" by "SODA. I used ACRYLIC, However, EJ used sand at low [35PSI] pressure [ prior recommendation was NOT sand or glass]). [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
Then to crack testing or x-rayed at a NDT* Service- OR AT HOME[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
Paint them with " DP90 and EPOXY [some disagree on the epoxy] or RUSTOLEUM or use ALODINE. Carol Smith apparently says LACQUER ONLY.
Then CLEAR COAT for ease of maintenance , NO POWDER COATING. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
Afterwards, re-assemble with new Allen’s and metal locking nut (w/ Loc-Tite). [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
SEAL with Dow Corning Silicone Adhesives/Sealant 832 on the crease AFTER the wheel is assembled ONLY[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]
Hardware: button head flange cap screws in steel with black oxide coating. [NOT stainless due to weakness concerns ] and Grade C lock nuts.[/FONT]

[DaveW]

Good summary. I only differ in one respect - I would not use Loctite. Using it will make it difficult if you ever want to check for "tightness," and metal (Grade C) lock-nuts won't come loose by themselves, anyway. If you use other nuts (Nylocs, plain nuts, etc.) then Loctite may be necessary, because those COULD come loose, but the Loctite will still defeat tightness checking.

In my experience, however, once the wheels are assembled as above with metal lock nuts, I have NEVER had one where the fasteners were loose when I checked, even years later, even after severely damaging a rim half. And this is without Loctite.

[Swift17]

the wheels I re-restored worked PERFECT -- Jason put narrow bead of the 832 after assembly and the wheels held pressure -- Before I entered this reply I went to the trailer and measured the tires from the Sebring and Homestead Nat'ls the pressure were still equal (+- 1/4 lbs) on the fronts and then the rears for each set -- alot of work BUT work rewarded.

EJ

[swiftdrivr]

Fastenall has "grade 12" bolts built to ASTM A574 and ANSI-B18.3. Anyone know if these are adequate quality for wheel re-assembly?---Jim

I forgot to mention, they are metric, hence the 'grade 12' designation.

[swiftdrivr]

Bolt quality for wheel re-assembly
Fastenall has "grade 12" bolts built to ASTM A574 and ANSI-B18.3. Anyone know if these are adequate quality for wheel re-assembly?---Jim

I forgot to mention, they are metric, hence the 'grade 12' designation.

[RussMcB]

I'm no expert, so you can ignore this post, but I've got to think other things are going to bend/break long before you'd have a bolt failure.

[formulasuper]

I'm no expert, so you can ignore this post, but I've got to think other things are going to bend/break long before you'd have a bolt failure.

Russ is correct. I've seen wheels from wrecked cars that had the rims torn to pieces & none of the bolts had failed.

[Swift17]

Bolt and nut failure is NOT a true concern provide you use top quality/grade - preventing same from coming loose and leaking (or worse) was mine.
If you look at DW's pic of his wheels in this thread he skipped very other bolt/nut for weight ! The wheel that broke on Jason had ALL the bolts still attached and tight. I believe I used the following (BOLD) from McMaster Carr

Oval Lock with Flange - Black-Phosphate Grade G Steel
1/4"-20 7/16" 9/32" 35/64" 0.06" per 100 p# 90949A016 (Course)
1/4"-28 7/16" 9/32" 35/64" 0.06" per 100 p# 90949A018 (Fine)

I torqued in sequence in three (s) steps - finger tight - then very snug w/ torque and final torque using an inch pound torque wrench.

Make sure you check clearance to the brake caliper ......

EJ

[swiftdrivr]

Thanks for the replies, guys. EJ, did the box refer to any ASTM standards? Do you know what they mean? I have no way to evaluate brittleness or strength on the Metrics for the Hayashis. I agree, it seems unlikely that any bolt built to reasonable standards and good quality would be likely to fail, but standards only mean something if you understand them. I don't speak engineering. I might be buying something that has a big flag on it saying, "strong in tesion, brittle in shear." I guess we will 'test' them come spring.---Jim