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  1. #1
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    Post Changing brake pads

    When should I change the front brake pads? I'm using the Hawk 118 black pads. The fronts are worn down to approx. 1/16" of the groove remaining. Last race the car braking was normal, consistant and not darty. The black pads are really very good and wear very slowly. Just wondering when to change.

  2. #2
    Senior Member racerxlilbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albatross View Post
    When should I change the front brake pads? I'm using the Hawk 118 black pads. The fronts are worn down to approx. 1/16" of the groove remaining. Last race the car braking was normal, consistant and not darty. The black pads are really very good and wear very slowly. Just wondering when to change.
    I swap the fronts to the back, and run the new ones in at the front. Sounds like they're just about done at 1/16".
    Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.

  3. #3
    Contributing Member rickb99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerxlilbro View Post
    I swap the fronts to the back, and run the new ones in at the front. Sounds like they're just about done at 1/16".
    We use KFP's on the Reynard so I don't know about wear on the Hawks.

    But if Racer says they are "about done" then I wouldn't want to enter the T-3A braking zone too many times with them
    CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.

  4. #4
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
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    Default Changing Brake Pads

    As brake pads get thinner, they wear faster. You don't want to start a race weekend, to only find that you need to put new pads in for the race.
    Brake pads in their various compounds, are designed to wear out. If you feel yours are lasting too long, maybe you should look into why (is it you, is it the material, is it that type of track?).
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

  5. #5
    Senior Member Nardi's Avatar
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    Don't those pads start off with a groove that is about 1/8" deep and you are now saying the groove is 1/16" deep? So actually there is more pad material deeper than the groove that is left? Do I have that right?

  6. #6
    Senior Member racerxlilbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kea View Post
    As brake pads get thinner, they wear faster. You don't want to start a race weekend, to only find that you need to put new pads in for the race.
    Brake pads in their various compounds, are designed to wear out. If you feel yours are lasting too long, maybe you should look into why (is it you, is it the material, is it that type of track?).
    ^+1
    Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.

  7. #7
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    Nardi, Your assumption is correct. There is about 1/16"-3/32" material between the bottom of the groove and the steel backing plate. I'm getting normal wear, but with less material than "new," I,m concerned about the increase in wear rate as well as a commensurate decrease in the coeff. of friction (from higher heat) thus not being able to brake as deeply into the turn. Like everyone else, the fronts wear much quicker than the rears naturally, because of brake bias; the front brakes doing most of the stopping. As Rick points out, one needs their brakes to work best at Seattle's PR turn 3a - a long downhill straight followed by a slow sometimes 1st gear turn depending on traffic. I believe that presently, the front pads have sufficent material, but this July I could and might race each weekend. Much thanks to all for their comments.

  8. #8
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    When you do put in new front pads, track how much they are wearing each weekend, and you'll have a pretty good guide for the future. I swap the front pads to the rear when they're about 2/3 worn. If your not sure they'll last a weekend, just make sure you have a new set on hand. I'll often install them in the rear for a session so I don't have to worry about fade, or "wasting" laps while bedding them.

  9. #9
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    A very successful tactic that we employ to equalize pad wear, minimize rotor wear and save a few bucks is to rotate the pads, side to side, as part of our pre-race weekend prep. Because the fronts wear quicker than the rears, they are shifted to the rear at ~50% worn, and a new set is installed in the front.
    BTW, we've been using KFP "gold" pads for years with excellent results.
    YMMV,
    Ken
    Blackjack Racing
    Ken

  10. #10
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    Post Changing brake pads: the strategy

    Well, here's the plan: Like everyone else, I like saving money, while not sacrificing performance. The front pads appear to be about 50% worn. So, I'll switch them to the rear and put the rears which are about 20% worn up front. The "new" pad set-up will be broken-in at the first "warm-up" outing of the race weekend. And, in the meantime, I'll have one new axle set available to be installed between race weekends as needed,
    maybe even two new sets. I believe my brake bias setting to be excellent. The excellent setting becomes most evident when approaching from the moderately long downhill to turn 3a at Seattle. I'll check into the "KFP Gold" for the future. However, I really like the Hawk "black". The "black" work particularly well with the Dunlop tyres on my vintage Crossle' 20F.

  11. #11
    Contributing Member EYERACE's Avatar
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    i like hawk black but i believe you need to put your best set [thickest] of existing pads in the rear and anew set in the front.

  12. #12
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    Default The Better Idea

    Yes, Yours is the best idea. After I wrote my last reply and received my new pads, I did just as you advocated: new pads on the front. Had a great weekend over the Fourth: 1 first place and 3 second places at the SOVREN races at Seattle's Pacific Raceways. 200 total entries, 22 vintage Formula Fords.

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