front-beam ball joints question

[rickjohnson356]

I obtained a prepped balljoint front beam with new ball joints and the camber adjusters.
The front wheel bearings, seals and rotors are now on the spindles and the calipers are mounted too. The calipers have not been clearanced for the wheels yet.

On one side of the beam, the nuts on the ends of the ball joints were tightened OK. On the other side they were just started on the threads. As I tried to tighten the nuts, the ball joint also started turning. The car is up on a gurney for ease of access for the build.

Is there some trick to keeping the ball joint itself from turning while I tighten the nuts?

Also, what is a good starting position for the location of the camber adjuster nut? Or does it really matter until you get to the actual point of performing the suspension set-up with the car on the ground?

I can post pics later today, if needed.

TIA

[Bill Bonow]

Rick,

Here are links to some info that may be of help

http://www.formula-first.org/html/fvconversion.html

http://www.formula-first.org/html/fvconversion_p2.html

As for spinning ball joint nuts, I've always just wedged them and got away with it. If your ball joints have new nylock nuts, install the ball joint with a non-locking nut. Once the ball joint shaft taper locks in, remove the nut and install the nylock.

I'd set the caster/camber pill to minimize caster and give about 1/2 deg negative camber. It really makes no diiference until the car is race ready (minimal work), but you'll need to remember that you always adjust caster/camber and then toe as caster/camber adjustment changes toe.

[rickjohnson356]

Many thanks once more for your advice, Bill.

I have an intake manifold and carb on the way and will order the restrictor from SR on Monday.

I will also get a rear spring from SR too, so I can finish the rear suspension, Got a shock from another ApexSpeed member. Not the fancy adjustable one, but it will work to start with,

I am at the stage of mocking up the exhaust manifold, so far it seems that the FV manifold (I think it is a Roxannes) fits just fine. I got three different collectors with it: a megaphone, a short straight and a short straight with what looks like a minimal muffler. Maybe the different ones will provide an opportunity to move the power band a couple hunderd revs one way or the other??? one for long tracks (Atlanta, Daytona) and one of the others for short tracks- (Savannah, Nashville)

While I am waiting for the intake to arrive, I can mount the main body and then be ready to do the cooling stuff.

Once I get the intake on the car I can fab the cooling ducts and an air feed for the carb and oil cooler.

[rgu]

Rick
Bill gave you good advice about using non-nylock nuts to start with. My additional advice is to keep the standard nuts on until you do the final alignment. You’ll be taking them off and on a lot and you’ll save a lot of elbow grease if you leave them off. Also the nylocks that come with the ball joints seem to have a two cycle life span then they get loose. Using new ones when you are ready to roll on to the track is a good idea.
Lastly buying a thin 35mm wrench to adjust the balljoint eccentric is a good idea. You can also use a inch and 3/8 I believe.
Good luck with your project.

[rickjohnson356]

The 'trick' with using a regular nut worked just fine. Actually, I found out that the side I thought was OK wasn't, when I went back and put the non-nylock on it to check. So now both sides ae together.

The lower ball joint has a hole in it in order to use a cotter pin. With a nylock on it, do I really need the cotter pin, or would that be like a belt and suspenders? A cotter pin would really ensure that the nut wouldnt back off, though.

The hint about the thin wrench is a good one too. One can never have enough tools. And, anything that makes an adjustment easier is a real plus.

Thanks!