RF96R progress

[Roux]

Since I am restarting this project. Here are some images. The first is of the 2007 GSXR in the frame with front mounts done (they are adjustable in all degrees of freedom at least for now). You can clearly see one of the four bosses where the original bellhousing attached. I plan to work with only those four points for attaching the back of the car

2nd picture is with the spacer frame started. Copious triangulation still needed. And behind the spacer is the LD200 modified casing that is a chain drive version and will take all of the original VD pieces for suspesnion mounting except the lower front A arm clevis which mounts to the spacer since it used to bolt to the belhousing plate. Third picture is the nose and splitter. Not at all like the 96FC.

Fourth shot I have added the VD aluminum casting that braces around the oil tank, bellhousing in the FR and also carries front top A arm and shock. The cross bar that holds the bellcranks simply bolts on as well as the cross bar that holds the upper rear A arm point. If you look carefully you should be able to see all of the pickup points in this and the final photo

[Northwind]

Steve,

I like it!

Utilizing existing parts and geometry will surley keep your costs to a minimum and give solid results. I think you may have the lowest cost FB conversion out there. It looks like you have all the hard work done and should have no problem being on track this spring. Keep us posted.

[RussMcB]

I like it, too. Looks like a great starting point and plan.

I went with using the original four bosses, too. Later I attached a main hoop brace to the back of the car to give it a fifth attachment point.

Tell us about the rear diff plans. Will it incorporate Hewland case?

[Roux]

pictures later, but I have done all the machining to use the hewland diff and the stock tripod output shaft and its seal and bearing. That bearing and seal are inside a flange that on the outside attaches to the sprocket and brings the torque from the sprocket to the diff on the inside essentially bolting onto the back of the holes that originally held the ring gear. That flange of course has to spin in a bearing that locates the diff axis. I chose a BMW K1000 bearing/seal that is used at the rear of the swingarm and takes the load of the wheel while passing torque from the beemers ring and pinion out to the wheel. The flange actually has to be two pieces in order to be able to assemble the whole deal. I trial assembled it but did not like the one piece (it has no safety margin and can be a bit thicker) so I will remake the one part before final assembly.

But before that can be done I have to close up all the holes in the casing so the oil doesn't fly out. Plugs, orings and time on the lathe.
I plan to attach a crush structure to where the bearing carrier of the hewland used to mount. It will also take the diffuser loads, swaybar and rear wing. And a rain light ;>]

[RobLav]

Don't use a jackshaft, and make sure the chain is long enough for cooling. I ran a few events with Ron, and he kept eating chains with the jackshaft system.

We had some fun for the few moments we ran together.

[RussMcB]

Don't use a jackshaft, and make sure the chain is long enough for cooling. I ran a few events with Ron, and he kept eating chains with the jackshaft system.

I can only guess Ron had a chain alignment problem, or isn't using the best chain. I've had zero problems with my jack shaft arrangement.

[Roux]

Rob,

No plan for a jack shaft, I just don't need one to make my idea work so won't add the complexity if I don't need to. I remember seeing a lot of cooling and oiling gizmos on Ron's car so he was compensating for some issue. As Russ points out, it can be made to work.

[RobLav]

Hey Russ - as I wrote that I thought of your car. Yes, a jackshaft can be made to work. Ron's car had one very short chain as I recall, and he had a hard time keeping it cool. Last we spoke, he was going to change it over the winter.

Steve - hope you can finish up over winter.

[formulasuper]

Hey Russ - as I wrote that I thought of your car. Yes, a jackshaft can be made to work. Ron's car had one very short chain as I recall, and he had a hard time keeping it cool. Last we spoke, he was going to change it over the winter.

Steve - hope you can finish up over winter.

I have a center to center distance of 0nly 9.5" between the 2 sprockets on my Busa powered Ralt & have never had a chain problem in 4 years. I don't see how a short chain could be his problem.

[RobLav]

Hey Scott - Maybe Ron's car had a major alignment problem then...

[carnut169]

Steve- your build looks great thus far, and if you can build it without any cutting on the main frame you are doing great. We could not make it work on my 96, but your's does appear to be a different car!

I'd like to hear more about the rear diff carrier (where does the rear sprocket go?), and would like to point out that if possible, moving the engine back a bit will give you more room for the headers and give your fuel cell/ motor some heat relief from those headers. As-is, I believe you will need some significant heat sheilding between the motor/ headers and the fuel cell/ headers.
Have you thought about the chain and the lower left rear wishbone's forward leg? That was the one that gave us the most trouble design-wise. Ended up building an idler sprocket to push the chain out of the way of the suspension (but did have to move the pickup point a bit as well). Shifting was another area that was redesigned several times.

Lastly, you may want to think about different side-pods as the factory pods on my 96 never seemed to really do the job when it came to cooling.

Best of luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

[Alex_thebrave]

Hello Roux, can you tell me the price of this modify on your rf96?
I want to meke the same thing on another F.Ford car and I'd like to know if the cost is not so expensive.
Thank you in advance,
cheers
Alex

[Roux]

Alex,

I have stopped working on this car and have gone back to racing FF. So I don't have a cost total.

If I had to do it again I would start with a FC car not a Formula Renault. The FR is too heavy in the brakes, driveshafts and uprights and also shared very few parts with other van Diemens. The track width is also on the low side for a modern car. In a spec series none of this really matters as the cars are all the same.

So maybe Rob Laverty or Russ McBride can comment on what a FC--> FB conversion cost them

Steve

[RussMcB]

So maybe Rob Laverty or Russ McBride can comment on what a FC--> FB conversion cost them

Steve

Sorry. I would not be able to easily come up with a number. Basically it cost me everything I had to spend on racing, plus a little more. :-).

It really depends on the cost of the parts (new or used) and labor (done by self or pay someone). If a built car is available for sale, that could the cheapest way.

[carnut169]

Sorry. I would not be able to easily come up with a number. Basically it cost me everything I had to spend on racing, plus a little more. :-).

It really depends on the cost of the parts (new or used) and labor (done by self or pay someone). If a built car is available for sale, that could the cheapest way.

and a LOT faster (conversion can take a year if your doing it yourself).

There was VD Novak conversion listed recently for a great price...