Tilton XLT Starter Goes South

[Mike Jones]

I've got a Tilton XLT stater running on a Lola T342. It has three races on it and the solenoid is shot. I've got one on order. I've never changed a solenoid. Is it possible to do this with the starter in the car? I have good acess to the solenoid from below. Gotta be at Hallett next weekend.

Mike

[mike g.]

In a T440 you can change the solenoid in the car.. Two long screws, I recall.

How did it die? I had a brandy new solenoid fall off the starter after 2hrs of running... wasnt locktited, apparently (lesson learned.. but, I expect a $500 race-starter to have that stuff done).

[Mike Jones]

It just went all of a sudden. I was trying to get oil pressure after changing the oil and the car just died. I had power to the switch and the "old hammer to the solenoid" did the trick. Unfortunately it did not last. Now I have this slice of Heaven job. I was hoping to not have to pull the engine.

[Brian]

From long and sad experience, the advice I have is to study and learn how to change the starter, the starter solenoid, the pinion gear, and any other part of the starter, well before you go to the track. Carry a complete spare, and all the parts required to rebuild one. Identify and carry the special little tool that you will use to get the tiny little ring circlip off so you can rebuild the pinion assembly.

Alteratively, learn how to do all this the way I did - sitting on the tailgate of my trailer in the rain. Stabbing my hand with my little screwdriver trying to pop the little circlip so I could replace the little spring inside the pinion gear assembly because the spare pinion I had was the wrong tooth count (details matter sometimes). Wandering around the paddock looking for an old starter to rob a solenoid return spring from because the old one decided it just had to be in two pieces right then...

Or install a pull-start cord, I guess...

Brian

[Roland V. Johnson]

We have had a lot of problems with the XLT starters. Tilton will not stand behind their product.

[bob darcey]

Sad but true, there seems to be a lot of trouble with the Tilton units--shouldn't be, for the price they get. My suggestion is to put it on Ebay and get a Nippon-Denso based unit (IMI HiTorque, British Starters, etc.), they are about $200 with adapter. I've run an IMI for about 10 years and it's been bullet proof. The solenoid contacts (copper disc and lugs) have to be cleaned about once a year (two screws and a few minutes). I wouldn't buy a starter with a sealed solenoid.

[Paul LeCain]

My experience is that the solenoid is the weak link. It doesn't like heat. The solenoid costs about $35. I usually replace it about every 5-6 races, but always carry a spare one, anyway.

[Brian]

the issue with Tilton (Hitachi) style starts and solenoids appears, to me, to be unique to Ford kent motors (and maybe the Pintos but I have never run a Pinto). The same starter that falls off my Formula Ford lives for 5 years on my BMW M10 2 litre race engine, and my buddy who runs Grand Am prototypes said that he ran the same identical starter on a Ford Modular V8 in Grand Am for a whole season, never changed it, never rebuilt it.

It's seemingly a vibration issue unique to the kent, I think. Where I can use Nippondenso, I do, but they don't fit on my T440.

Brian

[Jerry B.]

The Hitachi has a little more beans than the Nippo but not to worry in a low compression 4 cyl.
Hitachi really needs every screw safety wired, and also helicoils for the long bolts thru the case and -10 AN long bolts (also safety wired). The B+ stud on the solenoid has to be secure in the solenoid and care must be taken when tightening the battery cable to it and not rotate the stud. Also I use sealed bearings on each end of the armature. Gear engagement on the Hitachi can be set up with the different shims also. Another thing that I find is that the actuating wire to the solenoid is a push on to a female spade lug on most of the solenoids. It needs strain relief by tie wrapping to the solenoid then looped to the connector. All this pertains to all the "brands" that sell the Hit's".

All the solenoids I have run across are made in a country of undetermned origin, thus suspect. It seems that most rotating electrical in the aftermarket is made there also these days. The solenoids are non rebuildable because of the rolled crimp on the case.

I have no experience with the Denso but I hear that the "Bushman fix"' is the way to go then they are trouble free with their problematic solenoid. There too big for some applications as was pointed out above.

[Steve Demeter]

Quite often the small wires in the solenoid break from fatigue due to the vibration.

One thing that seems to make them last almost indefinitely (at leadt in the denso units) is to remove the cover on the end and pot all the small varnish coated wires you see with silcone or epoxy.

[Mike Jones]

Got the new solenoid and installed it. That was not the problem. Looks liike the Tilton will make me a spectator. Not happy at all. I'm going to remeber this.

Mike

[bob darcey]

Mike, check your email.

[Frank C]

I sent a message, too, offering loan of a Lucas starter, just 40 miles from Hallett. Be really vintage and period correct!
- Frank C

[Mike Jones]

Thanks Frank but if I can't get oil pressure here. I won't be dragging to Oklahoma.

[Mike Jones]

We're Baaaack! It has oil pressure and makes noise. Yes!