gearing up for racing

[wannabe]

Where can a new guy go for setup information on various tracks? I specifically need info on Barber and Road Atlanta. I would appreciate any help or any insight anyone could give me on this or other first time experiences.

[RedZed]

My thoughts exactly.

[farrout]

Talk to Court Dowis about FMs at those tracks

[dmccallum]

Where can a new guy go for setup information on various tracks? I specifically need info on Barber and Road Atlanta. I would appreciate any help or any insight anyone could give me on this or other first time experiences.

Guys,
Here is a Base line setup sheet I found some years ago when I was getting started. I use it for a base line and then make adjustments to the track I am running and document those changes for future use.
I hope this helps.
Dale McCallum

I found this setup information a few years ago but I don't remember where I found it.
I have found it to be a pretty good baseline setup.
Below is the document as I printed it.
Dale



As promised, here is the information provided to us. This is a copy/paste so please
don't message me if you disagree with the information provided here;
Here is our baseline 470 set up.

Target hot tire pressure 18psi front and rear. All of the set up numbers are done with this pressure.
Tune the car to maintain the same target hot temp. I have never had to stager my hot temp to make the
car work.
-Set up with 10 gallons of fuel and a total car weight of 1410 lbs.
Ride height:
- Front 1.875"
- Rear 2.750"
Caster
- Front 5.0 to 5.5
Camber (Each side)
- Front -.8 (neg)
- Rear +.4 (pos)
Toe (Each side)
- Front 3mm toe out (6mm total)
- Rear 0
Springs
- Front 750 lbs
- Rear 500 lbs
Compression
- Front 7 (from soft)
- Rear 5 (from soft)
Rebound
- Front 6 (from soft)
- Rear 4 (from soft)
Bump Rubbers
- Front Short
- Rear Tall
Packers
- Front 0
- Rear As many as it takes to have .375 - .500 gap between bump rubber and packer at static. You will
need a shorter gap for slower drivers.
Shock perch heights
- Front +/- .125
- Rear +/- .250
Corner weights
- Front +/- 5 lbs
- Rear +/- 10 lbs
ARB (Anti Roll Bar)
- Front full soft
- Rear baseline at 3" with sticker tires (adjust for wear)
Wing
- Measure without including the wicker. Start with the front and rear at the same angle ranging
from 6 - 10 degrees depending on the track.
Wicker
- Front Tall (.750)
- Rear Short (.375)
Always run wickers. Even the winning car at Daytona ran wickers. Thhe only difference is that you can
run .375 front and rear.
Th e primary changes to make are;
1)Rake
2) Camber based on tire temps.(try and stay within 5-10 degrees across the tire with the hottest temp on the
inside shoulder)
3) Packers
4) Bar (mostly to chase tire wear. Soften bar as tires get older and car starts to get looser)
5) shocks
6) Wing (for turning corners above 70 MPH)
7) Toe
8) Caster
9) Bump steer
10) Always make sure to keep an eye on tire temps to adjust camber.


In that order. Very rarely do you have to get passed step 6. Steps 1-3 will usually do the trick for overall
handling. Steps 4-6 are for balance and tire wear. Steps 7-10 are very rarely needed assuming the baseline
is correct.

This info also assumes the car is square and the bump steer is correct. Also that there are no
excessively worn parts on the car such as himes, uprights, ackerman plates and blocks, and that the
shocks are FM spec. and functioning properly.

[mstephenson51]

Yep, thats exactly what pretty much all cars need to be quick. I ran a little less front caster, about 4.7.

One helpful tip: Move the rear bar softer 1/2" every time out after new tires. Even if you love the car and are just going to fuel and go again, move it 1/2" softer to chase the tire wear.

Dang it I need to get another car! Sucks being without one this year.