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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Default Hewland Gear Ratio Change Video

    Gents,

    I've had a lot of people over the years want to know how to change ratios, so I have made this video. I hope it helps:

    http://youtu.be/7V097lJ1Z1g

    Grahame Burton

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  3. #2
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Default

    Two comments:

    1) Neat trick using the magnet to help with the washers.

    2) You lock up 3rd and R, not 4th and R, to deal with the layshaft nut. You similarly confused 1st and 2nd when testing reassembly. Forward selects 1st and 3rd.

    You didn't have to dance away from a big blurp of gear oil when you pulled the carrier, and didn't count the 15 minutes it takes me to get the #!$%#$% oil tank back on..

    That video will save a lot of people a lot of pain.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  4. #3
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Default

    Tim,

    You're right about the confusion on the gears. I always get that back the front.

    And yes, I confess to leaving off the bits about refilling the oil and fitting the oil tank and back cover. I didn't think that wouldn't add to the objective of showing someone how to change the ratios.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Graham,

    Thanks very much for the super instructive video. The two tricks that I most love about your technique are:

    1) Turning the bottom nut to get the last little bit of alignment so you can run the whole set home the last 1/4 inch. I have been using magic, luck and patience in the past to accomplish this same function, and welcome a technique that will remove the need for any of this.

    2) The hollow shaft that you use to hold the top stack while you remove and insert the gears. Can you give me the dimensions of this tool, I want to make one of my own?

    Best Regards

    Nathan John

  6. #5
    Contributing Member TimH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Texan View Post
    2) The hollow shaft that you use to hold the top stack while you remove and insert the gears. Can you give me the dimensions of this tool, I want to make one of my own?
    A 1-inch wooden dowel works fine.
    Caldwell D9B - Sold
    Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
    RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'

  7. #6
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    Default

    Is that a dried bead of silicone on the cover faces to seal the gearbox? Any particular type? How many times can you open the box before replacing the bead?
    Hartley MacDonald
    2006 Van Dieman RF06

  8. #7
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    The sealer is blue Hylomar from a tube. It has lasted about 12 changes now, and is not leaking.

    The hollow shaft thing is a piece of Al tube 24.79 mm OD (I have no idea where this tube came from, but I'm sure you could get away with 1"). I bored the ID to 23mm, and it just slips over the threaded portion. I have it 133 long, but twice this length would be better.

  9. #8
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    Grahame,

    Thanks for the feedback on the tube. I am hoping to be able to find a 1" tube with an ID that does not need boring. I have to do a gear change this weekend, and I am sure your trick of rotating the input shaft will save me a lot of time.

    BTW, sorry for miss-spelling your name in the previous post

    Best Regards

    Nathan

  10. #9
    Contributing Member Hawke's Avatar
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    Nathan, thanks for that. I've lived for the past 56 years with my name being spelt incorrectly. I can deal with it. I've been called far worst.

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