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  1. #1
    Contributing Member RobLav's Avatar
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    Default Hydraulic Slave Conversion?

    Anybody have any ideas on a hydraulic slave conversion? My R1 engine car works OK with a cable rigged to the pedal, but I'm not sure I like it. The cable under tension wants to straighten out the housing too much. Results in more play than i'd like.

    Isn't there some pull type slave out there somewhere?

  2. #2
    Senior Member sidney's Avatar
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    I think this is what they use on the Stohr:

    http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...1-SC/index.asp
    Ian MacLeod
    "Happy Hour: 5:00 - 5:30"
    Tatuus F1k

  3. #3
    Contributing Member RobLav's Avatar
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    Ian,

    I know you have an R1 in there too. How do you like the pull cable? Mine now has an Aircraft Spruce push-pull cable rigged from the clutch pedal (left side), then twists around an S-bend to the right of the fire system and driver, then straight from there to the pull lever cable mount on the engine. It doesn't seem to like the S-bend, the cable housing is even mounted to the chassis floor.

  4. #4
    Contributing Member RussMcB's Avatar
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    Rob, my clutch cable is exactly as you describe yours. Mine works great. Not sure if there are differences in our engines, chassis or cables that might affect that. On my engine, the clutch cable does not need much travel to disengage the clutch. Maybe .5 - 1"? My cable crosses sides under my legs. It's not ultra secured, but seems to work fine.

    When you say it has more play than you'd like, how does that affect the actual disengagement? In what way does it affect the car when starting off and shifting?

    FWIW, I had a combo cable/hydralic pull cylindar and it was a real pain. I'm much happier with a simple cable from pedal to clutch lever arm. The slave cylinder had the be securely mounded to the frame, needed special adapers to connect to the cable, had to be adjusted, bleed, would drip brake fluid, ... Yuck. Good riddance to it.
    Racer Russ
    Palm Coast, FL

  5. #5
    Senior Member sidney's Avatar
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    Hey Rob,

    While I have not had the luxury of getting the car going, I can say that the feel of the cable seems very smooth. I have included a picture of the pedal, but I don't have a good one of the cable routing under by butt. It sounds very similar to what you are describing (S-bend mounted with plastic clips under the seat. We use the stop at the top of the pedal to limit stroke. Dad came up with this slick interface that allows us to modify the effort and "throw" of the pedal. This linkage has changed a little, but the concept is very sound. We may have been able to dial out some of the deadband in the cable using this system. I know the cable is one the drag guys use for shifting and hopefully the old man can comment on who the mfgr is.

    P.S. We use a cable of the same length for the shifter as well.
    Last edited by sidney; 04.07.09 at 2:00 PM. Reason: Added shifter comment
    Ian MacLeod
    "Happy Hour: 5:00 - 5:30"
    Tatuus F1k

  6. #6
    Contributing Member RobLav's Avatar
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    Thanks Ian and Russ,

    My pedal setup is like Ian's, and that is a neat bellcrank setup.

    After playing with my cable mountings, it works a lot better. I put a couple more mounting brackets at the S-bend. I also ordered the clutch pull slave from Randy's Racemart (good prices) in case this cable craps out - already have the master cylinder and AN4 line made up. So it's working for now.

    Now on to the wiring and bead seat...

  7. #7
    Member Viperklr's Avatar
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    Default Wilwood Pull Slave

    I've been using a Wilwood pull type slave on the Yamaha R1 in my DSR for a few years now. It works great. I solo the car so I most likely use the clutch more than a typical road racer. No issues so far and the feel and take-up is smooth and linear.
    ____________
    Joe Gonzalez

    You say Obsession like it's a bad thing......

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