Band saw

[Jim Garry]

I'd like to buy a small bandsaw to cut aluminum and thin pieces of steel. It's got to be small in order to fit into cramped quarters. Does anyone have experience with such a product? Any recommendations or products to stay away from?

Thanks in advance!

Jim

[RussMcB]

I've used one of these for the past 10 years.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93762

It's not high quality, but has been acceptable for the type of work I do.

[Brian]

the ubiquitous $200 metal bandsaw (there are many versions of the same design and levels of relative quality, believe it or not) does a good job on steel and aluminium once you figure out how to tune it up to cut straight. For aluminium sheet, any wood-working saw will do fine. I use my wood bandsaw to cut aluminium up to 1/2" thick and as long as the blade is fresh, no problem. I use my mitrebox saw to cut aluminium tube.

Brian

[RobLav]

I don't like blades that put my fingers at risk. A metal cuttoff blade in a table saw is what I've been using for a few years. The fence and the miter box work as normal, and it rips right through sheet steel, aluminum, copper, fiberglass, foam, braided hoses, etc.

[Matt King]

I use my wood bandsaw to cut aluminium up to 1/2" thick and as long as the blade is fresh, no problem.

Any particular type of blade you're using? Do you have problems with the blade speed being too high? I have a 14-inch wood band saw, but the research I did indicated it should really have a reduction gear for metal-cutting, although I have used it to cut plastic sheet.

[Rick Kirchner]

I second Brian's observations. Years ago I had a Enco 14" vertical bandsaw for wood. I put a fine tooth blade on it and had no problem cutting aluminum, plastic, and thin steel (although steel really shortened blade life). It was damaged when I got it, they sent another that was still a POS, and I ended up disassembling two saws, selecting the best parts, building one "good" saw, and sending the other back to Enco.

Slowing the machine down is just an exercise in buying a new pully from mcMaster and a new belt, if you have no need to cut wood.

However, I could never get the damn thing to cut a straight line and finally garage saled it out of frustration. We have a sears saw here at work that has a visible blade tension gauge and guide blocks that can be set without tools. thing works like a champ compared to the enco.

[John Robinson II]

You might also want to consider a hand held bandsaw, porta-band for lack of a better name. Porter Cable has been bought by Dewalt so that tool is gone. I use them to cut everything from 2 x 4 x .120 tube steel to .060 alum weatherstripping. If needed it can also be mounted in a vise to work as a traditional bandsaw. Quality blades make the largest difference.

John

[cooleyjb]

Bill Bonow has one of these and will probably chime in at some point.

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/saws/band_saws/6225.html

It cuts through the smaller tubing and angle stuff like butter. Cut faster than the big floor saw in the shop. A bit more work to get a good square cut though.

[John Robinson II]

Bill Bonow has one of these and will probably chime in at some point.

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/saws/band_saws/6225.html

It cuts through the smaller tubing and angle stuff like butter. Cut faster than the big floor saw in the shop. A bit more work to get a good square cut though.

That is what I was talking about. Get the one with the wide opening. They also make a jig that turns it into a miter saw of sorts, expensive and then you lose some of the portability.

When I have to make exposed cuts that need to be square, I dont cut through but just across the top surface then turn the material.

John

PS Makita has a 18 volt nicad version that is pretty damn slick and just as expensive. Milwaukee also has one as well, but I have not used it yet because they are very proud of their tool$.

[cooleyjb]

That is what I was talking about. Get the one with the wide opening. They also make a jig that turns it into a miter saw of sorts, expensive and then you lose some of the portability.

When I have to make exposed cuts that need to be square, I dont cut through but just across the top surface then turn the material.

John

PS Makita has a 18 volt nicad version that is pretty damn slick and just as expensive. Milwaukee also has one as well, but I have not used it yet because they are very proud of their tool$.

I'll have to remember that, thanks.

[Fatoldman7]

I bought your basic cheap vertical band saw at a Wood workers Supply store 10 years ago. I've cut 4" aluminum plate with no problem, not very fast, but it does get the job done. The trick to using saws like this is to get good bi-metal blades made up for it, a course blade, and a fine blade. I also use a good stick/wax lubricant. An interesting thing about using this saw is that I've had the same blade on it for the past 8 years. The machine is way under powered, so the blade stops before it breaks off teeth. I planned on putting a more powerful motor and a gear reduction unit in the saw when I purchased it, but it's worked fine in it's stock state so I plan on leaving it alone. A good source for information for folks like us is Home Shop Machinist. They have great articals that deal with getting your metal working needs acomplised, on a low budget.

[10rmotor]

Slowing the machine down is just an exercise in buying a new pully from mcMaster and a new belt, if you have no need to cut wood.

Pretty much right on. I bought a decent (but not name brand) used wood cutting vertical band saw with a fried motor for 100 bucks. I pulled the motor out of the harbor freight piece of crap (referenced above) that I refused to use any more, and bought the largest and smallest pulleys that would fit on the saw and the right length belt and reduced the speed down. Its still a bit fast but with a decent blade I can cut .065 304 stainless header tubing pretty easy. The only problem is that the small pulley on the motor has very little surface area so the motor sometimes spins on the belt.

[Chuck Hovonick]

I've been using a Delta 4"x6" horizontal for thirty years. Relatively easy speed changes, more than enough capacity for race car tube/ trailer outfitting&repair work. The problem with these is throat depth if you're trying to use the supplied table to cut sheet goods - there isn't any! For sheet, if its too thick for the pneumatic nibbler, I get out the Craftsman jig saw with a bi-metal blade and take my time.

What ever you get, don't go "economy" on blades. On a band saw the blade guides need to be as close to the work as you can get them, and as soon as it looks like the cut is going the least bit off square, change the blade. The finest tooth blade is the best, seems to cut truest.

Chuck Hovonick

[Jim Garry]

Thanks for all of the great advice fellas.


Jim

[Modo]

I use a hand held Sabre or Jigsaw for the type of cutting you talk about JG and if you put it in the corner you may not be able to find it........clamping to a wood backing makes it easier.......have 10" table saw and can cut 1/2" aluminum plate with a 45 tpi blade and 2" cold rolled steel rounds with a Norton chop saw blade (large cutoff wheel)......just wear an apron for the latter or step to the side or your sweat shirt will catch fire (or just pat ur belly to extinguish)

[Jim Garry]

Michael, can you post a photo?


Jim

[Modo]

Of 2" round cut and sparks..........sabre saw wood backing cutout n wing rib in wing (.06" steel w/weight holes, steel easier to tig n follow airfoil formula), Buckboard Reynard Original, or version I, or II.....current Tatuus?

Boy! Slow Today!.....me looking down at smoldering sweatshirt and more intent on finishing cut while amused at watching the smoldering holes grow (also hoping nobody is watching) better pull the big switch for today (ham radio jargon... ex-WA3DXT)

[Jim Garry]

A photo or two of the latest version of the Tatuus would be nice. But what I'm really asking for is "clamping to a wood backing makes it easier". I can't quite see how I'd do that with my jigsaw.

Thanks,
Jim

[Modo]

I'll get some photos......I have tried to save time and wood and mark the pattern on a sheet of say .06 6061-T6 and start cutting....hold in the left hand and cut with the right...torture...the thing shakes to hell and the sound is unbearable....so I decided to do it the Carrol Smith suggested way and cut out a piece of wood the size of pattern and clamp both to something (Saw Table) and start cut...quieter and enormous amount of control compared to former.......have to keep rearranging the clamping for total cut for small pieces cause the jigsaw has width

[Modo]

tnx for getting this started...just went out started cut on smaller cord naca
obviously need to reclamp pattern to finsh
Use 5X - 6X macdegeneration/inspection reading glasses for accuracy...available from americanreadingglasses.com in Fla for $8.00