Engine failures

[LLoshak]

Thanks Ren!

Image below shows 10th lap and I have all the laps displayed below the lap opened. You can see oil psi was consistant the entire race.

[glenn cooper]

Coop Likee!
That's some good stuff you figured out there, Lawrence.
I'm also going back to my wet pan until such time that the dry sump system is proven.
Being an unpaid Guinea Pig sucked!!
Hope you don't mind (and it sounds like you won't), but I'll be copying your baffle plate and be testing it at Barber in about 5 weeks.
I should also be "fully wired" w/ the data system by then and will have graphs as well.

GC

[LLoshak]

Of course I dont mind! I wanted a EZ solution for myself and for everyone. No need to buy a different pan or anything besides some material to weld together. The rest is labor.

Coop, just to make sure, its not just the baffle plate, the main fix is rotating the pan 180* which puts the p/u box in front and making a new p/u.

One thing I did experience, if some missed this, I also had to mount a breather bottle directly above the breather box like everyone did with the Yamahas so oil wouldnt accumulate in the bottle, run low in engine and bring dipping back. With bottle mounted this way oil still can go into the bottle when it needs to, but drains right back into engine via gravity.

[Lee Stohr]

Please remind everyone exactly how you set your oil level with this pan.
That is critical with the wet sumps.

[GP15]

Hi Lawrence,

It's been interesting following this thread from an engineering/troubleshooting standpoint.

I assume your screen shot is speed (green line) & oil pressure (black line) and that this particular graph starts as you approach turn 1 and ends as you are climbing the hill on the front straight?

I'm curious as to why there is a 2-3 second delay for your oil pressure to recover particularly as you accelerate out of turn 8 (reference time 60 seconds to 70 seconds in your pic)? I'm assuming your revs come up pretty quick coming out of turn 8, yet there looks like a 2-3 second delay in your graph. Is this just an illusion due to poor resolution of the oil pressure in the graph?

Second comment, it looks like you fixed the problem of oil starvation under heavy, long braking. I'm curious about the dip in pressure as you climb the hill out of turn 14...is it possible you went too far with your pick-up modification and now you might have an issue when you have the combination of heavy acceleration and climbing a steep hill? Do you have a similar dip in pressure climbing the hill heading towards turn 6 on any of your other graphs?

Looks like you have to walk a fine line to keep the oil pressure happy in one of those things, and that your modification is the best overall compromise to keeping an engine alive at RA i.e. there are seven heavy braking zones, but only two steep hills to climb.

BTW - nice drive last weekend!

[LLoshak]

Greg, Thanks for the comments on the drive!!

What dipping? The 1-2 psi at 20hz of resolution? At 10hz, it will smooth out and especially if I apply a filter. I could post a screen shot of before and you will see this is a remarkable improvement or check out shots Jake and other posted earlier in this thread. Data before showed dips to 30psi in every braking zone and until now was deemed "normal". Hills are not a problem, a hill at full acceleration (.3-.45G's) will never shoot the oil back at even close to the rate of the oil shooting forward while braking at 1.5G's. The climb from 5 to 6 is a pretty steep hill as is the climb up the front straight from 14.

And Lee is 100% right.

Fill procedure:

Pour in 6 qts, warm engine to at least 150 oil temp, increase rpms to 6,000rpm, while holding 6k check sight glass. Add enough oil so no bubbles are visable and sight glass is totally covered while doing this routine. Regardless if you do my oil pan and p/u mods.

[LLoshak]

Heres a screen shot to compare to from Sprints race with old p/u. Engine goes KABOOM, brand new for that weekend, with only dyno time on it.

[glenn cooper]

the pan mods, how 'bout a pic or 2 of the puke tank.
I'm not quite sure how this thing is supposed to work.
Maybe pics or a description of any internal baffling of the can?
Are you attaching the bottom of the puke tank right to the GSXR oil vent square block?
Are you routing the vent into the top of the tank and gravity takes it out the bottom, into the block?
Does this tank then have a vent off of it to a secondary catch can?
In regard to the oil capacity, do you have any idea how much oil your cooler holds?
I'm wondering if the total capacity between your cooler and mine will matter much.
Are you running a filter inline between the engine and the oil cooler inlet?

Thanks, GC

[VehDyn]

I am sure Lawrence will post a picture of his setup, but as an additional reference here is a shot of the R1 config he was talking about in a WF1. This one was Jaremko's.

[HastyHorn]

Note that this R1 engine is equipped with TWO crankcase breathers (one has been added on top of the valve cover) although they are both are connected to the "stripper" canister.

The picture (unless you look closely) suggests that there are other lines connected to the tank but actually they pass just in front of the tank.

There is a "puke" tank connected to the "stripper" canister but is out of sight of the photo.

Hasty Horn

[Northwind]

Glenn,

The yamaha style puke tank acts just like an old fashioned coffee pot that perculates. The breather gases and oil are forced up into a larger chamber area (the puke tank) which slows down the velocity of the breathing expulsions and allows the gasses and oil to sepparate. The oil gravity feeds back into the breather port on the engine while the gases continue upward out the top af the puke tank to the secondary catch can.

[LLoshak]

I'd post pics, but had to do it at the track, aint too pretty! But thanks to Mat Cutter for having some steel along, it turned out pretty nice considering.

We'll be redoing it, making it nice as the rest of the car.

But the pics above are exactly what I did. I used a peterson breather bottle with the filter removed and capped off. The bottom, which is usually the drain plug, is attached to the breather box via 3/8 hose. The side of the bottle, which is intended as the inlet, was used as an outlet and went to a seperate tank which I dont really think is needed as no oil was present in either tank after race.

Not exactly sure how big the cooler is, its the stock Stohr piece, rather large. Are you asking because of fill procedure? If so, just start with 5 and check from there.

No filters besides the main oil filter in front of engine.

Go for it Coop!!!!

BTW, has anyone ever noticed the banner pic? The drivers visor is open!

[Gary Slahor]

Geat job on the R&D Lawrence !! My wet sump installation could probably benifit from this mod.

Something I don't understand though. On my wet sump installation, I currently see the same dips in Oil Pressure when slowing for corners. Since oil pressure is proportional to engine speed (big swings when oil is hot), I assumed that this drop was due to the engine revs dropping as you get off the gas. I can't understand how the oil pressure can NOT drop when the engine revs fall.....yet apparently your fix prevents the OP from dropping when the revs drop.

Am I missing something ?

Can you post the same "before and after" graphs of oil pressure with engine RPM on the same graph ?

Gary

[LLoshak]

Gary,

You're right, but let me explain a little further.

Our oil pumps in these engines are gear driven. The manufacturer figures out the ratio needed to provide enough oil to the engine but at the same time not have the pump spin them selves to death, theres more but enough on that for this discussion.

There is also a oil relief valve. At idle, the pump is turning too slowly to make any big psi numbers but enough for no load, slow bearing surface speeds etc. If you rev the engine, above lets say 3000rpm, the pump is now putting out very close to 100% of its potential and the relief valve is stroking trying to keep the psi at a reasonable level so the filter and/or seals wont blow off when started and reved cold.

Again theres more detail, but the point/explanation here is, the pump is only RPM dependent until the relief valve starts opening. And when slowing for a corner and downshifting Im sure you'll agree your revs are far north of even 6000RPM of which full oil psi should already being made and held, everywhere, regardless what your doing behind the seat or where you are on the track.

Its like a turbo with a wastegate. You can set boost to 10psi and hold it there regardless of the engines or Turbo's RPM.

Think about it, your oil pump is not hooked up to your throttle cable or TPS sensor. Even with the car off, in gear/cluth out, and being towed behind a truck, it will make oil psi.

What is happening, can be viewable while looking closely to data. The oil p/u is becoming uncovered under braking. The quick and big transition to 1.45G's of braking force, oil goes flying forward and then sits at a 45* angle in the pan. As you come off the brakes the oil makes its way back to the p/u. Yes, you may corner at higher G's, but you'll never perform the same quick and big transition without losing control of the car. AND the oil pan is longer than it is wide and oil has less of a place to go left to right compared to forward (up into balance shaft area etc.).

Your oil psi is not going up because you're picking up the gas, the oil has just made its way back to the p/u and if you look closely to data, you'll see most of the time, oil psi has already fully recovered by the time you start picking up the gas.

Make sense?

[Gary Slahor]

OK.....so if I understand correctly:

-the dips in OP that I'm seeing are NOT from the revs dropping, but from the pickup being uncovered.

-and the drop in engine revs entering corners should NOT be enough to cause the OP to drop.

That would explain it.

I will try making these mods on my own, but may end up going through the same trial and error that you did. Somebody need to market this fix.

PS: I'm assuming in all this that we're all talking about the low profile wet sump pan that has the 4 swinging trap doors. That's the one I have.

[LLoshak]

Yes sir! See the pics that are posted earlier in the thread. Even if yours is a bit different, im sure its just as shallow and has the p/u box in the rear.

To test/visualize:

Set your pan on your bench, make a line with pinstripe/tape etc on the wall in the back ground, in your line of sight, mimicking the oil level (couple inches higher than pan). Now tilt one end of the pan while keeping the other end touching your bench. Tilt until the pan is approx 45*, you will notice the p/u will be above the line.

First work on rotating the pan 180* which requires a bit of milling on hte holes as the bolt pattern is slightly different on 4 of the holes. Its not much. Same for baffle plate/lid (some additional trimming required for baffle plate/lid but its EZ).

Then cut your p/u apart, all you will be doing is making it longer and point it in the other direction. I cut right before the weld on the tube to retain the flange and as much round tube as possible. Everything else was re-made.

The length should be as far fwd as you can go but still allow the doors to open completely.

Miter cut one end and weld cap the other. Drill a hole the size of the tube (coming off the flange) on the side that is capped and long side of miter cut. Now weld the meiter cuts together to make a 90 and weld tube to hole.

Good tig welds are critical!!! If your welds or equipment is att al in question, cut it all up, deburr everthing and take to a good experienced tig welder.

Now, bolt it on to determine where to cut to provide the right angle and 3/16 gap to the pan floor. Measure the hieght of the pan, measure the depth, subtract the two thats the thickness of pan. So hold pan on pan rail surface and slide up against your new p/u bolted on and mark a line. Cut there + the thickness of the pan + 3/16).

Mod your baffle plate to fit p/u. I did some additional baffling to control oil flow, you'll see once you're there.

The relief valve requires a collar. We bought a round collar clamp (round alum, cut in half, 2 allen screws that tighten it). Fully tightend we bored the size of the relief valve into it but leaving .1 to take up the gap from pan floor to relief valve installed all the way.

Whola, no more dips!!!

[Gary Slahor]

Thansk for the details.

I couldn't visualize the coller on the relief valve ? I understand about the aluminum split coller that clamps around the relief valve, but what's the purpose?

[LLoshak]

With relief valve fully installed, there is a gap between valve and pan floor when pan is installed. Just a footy to take up the gap and didnt like the idea of the valve possibly grinding into the pan.

[JakeL]

All -

So, I finally have a bit of data to add to this discussion.

I went out to the track today with my newly acquired 200 mile bone-stock 2008 Suzuki. Literally nothing done to it other than bolting on my wet-sump pan/baffle (in unmodified format), and hitting the track. For reference, I'm using AMSOIL 20-50.

Between the previous engine kerblammo, I:

1.) replaced the Setrab 650 triple-pass with a Setrab 650 single-pass that is common to most WF-1 and Stohr F1000's

2.) Re-did both oil lines with new fittings. Significant is that I changed all the fittings from the "compact" style to the swivel style that have the much gentler radius, like these: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/3271.JPG. In addition, by changing the line routing, and moving from the triple-pass cooler to single-pass, I was able to cut about 3' of -8 hose out of the car.


Results:

1.) 7-8psi MORE shown on the data under normal conditions as compared to the previous engine (which even had a "high volume" pump in it). Perhaps attributable to the lines, or perhaps to a different relief valve...

2.) much less dip in oil pressure under braking as had been observed previously, and more importantly, for shorter time period. In the attached screenshot, note that the oil pressure starts higher, and stays higher (stays well into the 30's), but that the time period of the dip is much, much shorter than before.

So, this very positive change could be attributed to one of three things:

1.) Magic
2.) standard Suzuki pump doing a better job of keeping itself "primed" than the so-called "high volume" pump
3.) the better fittings, shorter lines, and shorter path due to single-pass cooler reducing load on pump to allow for better in-engine pressure.

In the attached screenshot, the top data series is from today, the bottom from a representative lap in May, with engine #2, that expired on July 3rd. Note that in each case where there is a dip, not only is it *smaller* now, but its duration is much shorter period than before.

So: Is the issue fixed? No, but I'm sure hoping it goes a long way towards explaining why I could only get two weekends on an engine, while others are having very good luck with theirs.

Cheers,

-Jake

Edit: If the screenshot is blurry, direct link: http://www.jakelatham.com/stohr/imag...comparison.JPG

[LLoshak]

Jake,

Sorry my friend, I dont mean to rain on your parade, but a dip is a dip, the p/u is still sucking air at this point, thats why it cant make the oil psi. Add more oil for now, its all you can do and brake softer.

Your new found psi is because of going from a triple pass to a single pass and shortening the lines.

Send me your pan, I'll do it for ya. All you had to do is ask!

Good luck out there!

[JakeL]

Lawrence -

Nah, no parade to rain on - no worries. I just thought it was interesting what a marked difference some simple details in the installation made, and thought that'd be useful information for others to be aware of. We all *say* that gentler bends and shorter lines are better, but this is pretty good data showing what a big effect it can have.

The main source of my encouragement is that this now seems good enough to function if need be, but I am still hanging my hopes on Jesse's dry sump.

All that said, I would love to send my pan your way once I've got some miles under the dry sump, so that I really do have a viable backup plan. Appreciate the friendliness!

-Jake

[LLoshak]

I've had numerous requests from people asking how much I'd charge to do my mods to thier oil pans.

The problem is, it is not a job that I can do in large production or worth doing with a CNC machine to cut cost etc because I don’t believe there’s enough demand. So all work is performed one by one, all manually. I also believe soon there will be someone offering these pans, new, with the redesign. So it’s hard for me to give a price that people are willing to pay and at the same time, is worth it for me to make them.

But a new pan will still be over $600. So rather than scraping the pans people already own, here’s my proposal:

I could make the p/u, baffle plate/lid and pan mods for $300, ready to install (+shipping).

Price break down:

P/U: $150
Lid: $100
Pan mods & relief valve collar: $50

PM your info to me and ETA of your pan.

Ship to:

Lawrence Loshak
8155 N 76th Street
Milwaukee, WI
53223

[JakeL]

Please remind everyone exactly how you set your oil level with this pan.
That is critical with the wet sumps.

Rilltech's recommended steps are here:

http://www.rilltechracing.com/suppor...structions.doc

-Jake

[LLoshak]

Agree, when its a new engine. My process is a bit easier, I just take the plugs out, pour in 6qts and spin for 10 sec at a time until I see oil psi. Plugs go in, start her up. Then warm up, rev to 6k and check sight glass.

When I just change oil, I leave the plugs in. Just draining the pan and removing the filter never gets all the oil out. I put back in the same amount that was drained. Prime with starter until oil psi registers, flip on the ignition and start her up and check level.

BTW, I use a jiffy tite connector in place of the drain plug on my oil pan. After each race we drain the oil. Its EZ, connect to jiffy-tight, drill pump, and pump out old oil. No need to lift car or cut floor and no mess. I also use pig mat (available at your local NAPA) and place one sheet under filter during filter change to keep oil from going between floor and pan.

[LLoshak]

WOW! 3 pans on the way already!

Some answers for some common question Ive recieved:

Pan mods are being done ASAP and first come, first serve. The mods shouldnt take long once I make/take measurments and make a jig. I expect max one week turn around.

Yes I will need everything, pan, lid, relief vlave and p/u. What will be new is the p/u, but need flange off of yours, so it will be cut up. Lid is modified as well as the pan. Drain plug hole is relocated and collar is included.

Payment to be made via check or paypal (+5% for paypal).

If check, include in package and pan will be shipped out once check clears.

PLEASE include all your info and shipping address in package, including when you need it back by. A pre-paid return UPS label would also be great to avoid me having to figure out shipping charges.

Paypal/email to: LL@enginetrans.com

Im not trying to make a business out of this, my intention is to help the entire motorcycle race car community and eliminate the "great class, but motors always blow up". This will only improve numbers for our classes, this is the MAJOR reason.

[urbanimports02]

firstly, lawrence, i think peter d sells the inlet flange for like $3, thought that might make life easier for ya. secondly, your dry sump is done with mods and ready to be sent back to you. thirdly, the new BRD dry sump is now available. this new system has the dual scavenge pump in the pan, gear driven off the stock oil pump. no more electric water pump, and it takes 5 minutes to install. simply pull off stock or wetsump pan, and apply silicone and bolt on dry sump pan, and your done. the gear on the scavenge pump meshes with the stock oil pump gear with nothing for you to worry about. the first one just completed dyno testing and is on its way to jake, West race cars just placed a quantity order that began machining today and are already sold. West will be the east coast dealer and dealer for all west customers. the pricing for this system will be set at $1900, but remember, no electric water pump to buy or deal with, and oil lines between pump and pan, making it even cheaper then the nova system and better performing due to the gerotor pump design. this system is clean and well thought out. inlet can be on left or right, with other side blocked off, and scavenge out is on front right corner giving it a straight shot to the cooler reducing line length by 3 feet. the real key here, is it is dual scavenge so it properly scavenges the motor maximizing power gains and eliminating pressure dips, and the weight of this dry sump system reduces the weight gain associated with dry sump.

contact
Jesse Brittsan @ BRD
urbanimports02@yahoo.com
503-810-9755
or
Eric Vasian @ West Race Cars
eric@westracecars.com
678-389-9326

[urbanimports02]

here is a link to jake's first outing with the BRD dry sump to avoid the double post.
http://dsrforum.yuku.com/topic/6742/...-Dry-Sump.html

[RussMcB]

Great news. Sounds like a great solution, especially with the meshing gears. I'm not surprised the dips are gone since a DS system should always provide a positive head of oil (deairated and lower temp oil, too).

Jesse, you just need to make it 15 lb. lighter. :-).

[LLoshak]

Thanks to Ted James, we have figured out the oil burping issue. This was the cause of why I blew my front sprocket seal out and made a mess last weekend too.

I missed something VERY important on my baffle plate redesign. Concentrating on how to control the oil and keeping in the box etc, I didnt make a hole for the breather tube! The baffle plate was completely blocking it off. Its amazing I finished the CAT national.

So please, see pic below to see where a hole need to be made and of course, this will be done to all future pans.

[tombeattie]

For those of you running the 07/08 Suzuki with the flappy door wet sump pan, here's some confirming data showing how well Lawrence Loshak's mod works.

Below is a screenshot of my before/after oil pressure data from Sebring. The black line is the oil pressure trace. The "before" data is on top.

Lawrence's concept definately eliminates the oil pressure drop due to the pickup being uncovered during braking. The only time my pressure would fall below the max is when I would allow the revs to drop below about 9000rpm. During those periods the pressure would track the revs exacly indicating no air was in the system. The big gulp of air that is taken in during the "before" braking intervals takes about 2-3 seconds to work its way out. During that time you could be blipping, slowing or getting on the gas hard and there would be no change in the oil pressure at all...at least not until the air and foamy oil has worked its way through the motor.

This should surely help the motor's longevity.

Thank you Lawrence.

Attachment 15897

[Gary Slahor]

I ran the Loshak mod last weekend in my F1000 and am still seeing the dips, like Tom is showing above. I believe the dips are RPM related, as RPMs dropped to 7000 in the slowest corners where I see the dips.

So assuming the pickup is not sucking air .... are these dips now acceptable ?

Gary

[RussMcB]

So assuming the pickup is not sucking air .... are these dips now acceptable ?

Are they dipping to 40? 20? 5? 0?

[Gary Slahor]

My dips are dependent on oil temp and lowest RPM that the engine drops to in the slowest corner. In fact my overall oil pressures are quite dependent on oil temp.
On the pace lap and first lap or so before oil gets up to temp, I see 70+ psi. Final oil temps (and pressure) are determined by ambient temp.

Assuming my RPMs drop to 7000 in my slowest corner:

-With 230 deg oil ...normal pressures run around 50 and dips drop to 35 (I see this condition with ambient temp of 75 deg)

-With 250 deg oil... normal pressures run around 40 with dips down to 25 (I see this condition with ambient temp of 85 deg)

Oil temps are measured leaving the engine on the way to the cooler. The C&R cooler that I run reduces the oil temps by 40 deg..... so return oil to the engine is between 190 and 210.


Gary

[RussMcB]

Don't take my word for it, but I'd think (hope) 25 lb for a very brief time would not cause a problem, especially if that's at the lowest RPM range, and assuming the pressure builds up from there as the load builds.

[urbanimports02]

what year engine are you running? from the looks of your numbers, it must be a stock 05-06(or older). consider running an oil pump overdrive gear or better yet, an 07-08 oil pump with oil pump drive shaft out of your current oil pump(shaft length is dependent on year of motor) even with the mods done to your pan, you should be seeing closer to 55-60psi hot if the motor is either 07-08 or running the overdrive gear. when looking at your minimum oil pressure at a given rpm, compare it to data from a straight line. when your oil is all the way up to temp, exit last corner on to straight away in higher gear/lower rpm. pull a nice smooth pull up the straight and download your data. whatever pressure you see here at 7000rpm should be the same as what you see in the corner at 7000rpm. if you do, then that is just the pressure your motor makes, not a dip.

[Gary Slahor]

Good suggestions. I'll compare the 2 readings - both at 7000 RPM. My engine is an 07.

[glenn cooper]

Hey Gary, I believe we have the same cooler, how many quarts engine oil are in your system?
My car, same cooler, wet sump pan w/o trap doors, almost 8 qts total, w/ 10mm air at top of sight glass @6k. When I last ran same wet sump pan w/ the RX7 oil cooler, capacity was more like 4 or 4.5qts.
Unfortunately I have no OP #'s from Barber the other day, as I really only did a few test day laps ea. session trying to debug.
OP I did see was right at maybe 55 or so. I'm now running the BG synthetic 40wt, really 15w/40, just like the Redline I had been running.

PS, Oh yeah, now running the LLoshak p/u mod.
PSS VERY nice TIG work, was that you, LL?

GC

[Gary Slahor]

Coop...I think I got your left over C&R cooler, so ours should be the same. I'm running the same swinging trap door pan as most of the other wet sump guys....with Lawrence's mods.

I fill the sump with the engine running at 3000 rpm ... to the top of the site glass.....shut if off then add 1/2 Qt more.

I think it takes around 5 1/2 - 6 qts total after an oil & filter change.

I'm currently running Red Line 40 wt race oil

Gary

[Northwind]

Gary,

I'm running the same set up you are, and fill the same way you did. It took 7 quarts in my system. Maybe the oil lines and routing is making a volume difference.

Dan

[LLoshak]

Thanks for posting the pics Tom!

And thanks to Toms help, I will be making a complete replacement lid from scratch that will be a drop in and as durable as the original. It's quite the task welding on the new plates onto such thin material and not having the plate turn into a pretzel. I'll post pics as soon as I have the first one made. Soon I'll be able to offer the complete mod either as just as parts (baffle plate, p/u and relief valve collar) and the owner will have to slot holes in pan OR get it to me on a Monday and I will have it back to you the same Friday. All slotting is now done via CNC. Plates will be professionally laser cut and bent. All additional plates will be riveted or bolted into place, no more welding on the plates is the goal. In the off season, we will be designing a new, complete wetsump pan kit.

So those of you, who already sent me your pans, will get these new plates at no charge.

Another product I’m trying to develop, a complete Inconel heat shield to cover the entire exhaust manifold and a Inconel barrier between engine and manifold. The idea is IF the engine does fail or if you just develop a leak, all oil to be kept under engine and not travel under manifold. And radiant heat from manifold will be greatly reduced, and should lower oil temps, engine temps, fuel temps, and make the body work happy.

Gary,

Those numbers sound low no matter with my mods or not. Oil psi until oil is up to temp will naturally be higher. Now with that said, oil psi dips from RPM are different than oil psi going down because of RPM. The oil starvation is quite easy to see in data. Look at a corner where long heavy braking is needed. If it s a oil starvation dip, you will see the oil psi recovers on its own regardless of what you're doing, you could still be on the brakes or not even on the gas.

As for your fill procedure, IMHO, there’s the problem. It’s not a clear indication if your sump is filled properly. Do what you are doing PLUS restart car, warm oil to 150* min, now hold revs to 6000 RPM and watch sight glass while holding 6K. Sight glass should stay completely covered. If you see some bubbles, creep up on it and add oil until it stays completely covered. Blip the engine a couple of times off of 6k to make sure.

And I agree, if the oil psi goes down to 25psi because of low RPM, no damage will be done, if it’s because of starvation/aerated oil, damage to rod bearings is routine.

I’m never below 8000k on the track ever. And now have 2 full race weekends with not a single dip whereas before several dips per lap where obvious.

Thanks Glen! No, I can’t take credit for the welding, that’s one of our welders here at our transmission factory, ETE Reman. His welding, my design... Just like the OEM's! LOL