We just re-installed our freshened head. We set timing to 38 Deg. Builder says set timing from 38-40 deg. Seems a little lower on torque then previously. Does moving the timing closer to 40 have any impact on the torque?
We just re-installed our freshened head. We set timing to 38 Deg. Builder says set timing from 38-40 deg. Seems a little lower on torque then previously. Does moving the timing closer to 40 have any impact on the torque?
AMBROSE BULDO - Abuldo at AOL.com
CURRENT: Mid Life Crisis Racing Chump/Lemons Sometime Driver (Dodge Neon)
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ignition, mixture, and the combination of the two will all effect torque.
was jetting adjusted for local conditions versus conditions on the dyno? if not, I'd do that before banging on the distributor. how are you assessing the combination of mixture and ignition timing: chassis dyno; EGT's; color of the tail pipe; color of the plugs; driver feel???
if the jetting is right/close, try a little more advance.......... YMMV
Art
artesmith@earthlink.net
Not that I'm a dyno expert - but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night...
I talked about this once some years ago, with Ted Martin - a contemporary and competitor to Keith Duckworth, FWIW - and he told me that I needed to find MTBT - Minimum Timing Best Torque. If you plot torque vs timing, what you find is that as you increase timing, you reach a plateau where a further increase in timing does not result in an increase in torque (remember that a dyno only directly measures torque, and there is a mathematical conversion to HP). So you sweep timing and look for where torque stops increasing.
Then, you jet for that timing to optimize it, then you sweep timing again to see if a different timing now results in a different MTBT point, then you rejet for that new timing, until it's lunch time and you quit. Or the engine blows up from all the dyno pulls. Or it loses power because it needs a rebuild. Or you run out of dyno gas.
So increasing your timing to 40 degrees may help, or may just get you closer to detonation... sorry
Funny story - Ted did most of his serious engine tuning and design in the early 1960's. Then - the way you found MTBT was you had your mechanical dyno with a giant dial and a needle that pointed to a torque number, and you went into the dyno chamber, cranked the engine up to full RPM, and grabbed the distributor and started twisting until the number on the dial peaked out. Or so he told me...
brian
Heck... I'd seen Formula Atlantic engines done that way in the LATE 70's! Where I worked they rented space to an engine builder for his dyno, was located just across from an airport - once the fire crews rolled over thinking the exhaust coming out the vent on the roof was a fire! Nothing quite like the sound, smells & vibration of a BDA going full song and being tuned on the dyno...
John H.
Reynard 88SF
I freely confess that I am scared of dyno's. I work on them fairly rarely, a couple of times a year at most, and I kind of crouch behind the operator, 15 feet from the engine, behind a wall and a sheet of lexan, while they run the engine up to redline for a 10 second pull. What if it explodes, as it clearly wants to?
Then, I bolt the engine in my car, 6 " behind my head, and happily run it up to redline repeatedly for 20 minute race sessions, without a care in the world. Out of sight, out of mind I guess.
Brian
Out of the way of flying parts.....
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I always used to set my Pinto cam timing a degree or two advanced (offset cam keys) from the QS dyno setting. That shifted the peak torque and HP lower on the RPM curve. IMO, that always gave better performance without having to buzz the crap out of the engine.
Dave Weitzenhof
Will the engine builder do this if you ask him to?
here's an idea for something to provide your engine builder. scribed lines added to the pulley on the dyno would enable painless adjustment of the engine's characteristics......
Art
artesmith@earthlink.net
Last edited by Art Smith; 10.21.09 at 3:14 PM.
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