78 Zink Z-10 sitting for seveal years

[triumph_tech]

I run the same style exhaust on my Z10. The down and back header style header in the style that seems to work with most Z10 tail bodywork combinations. I inquired about the configuration when I rebuilt the car and was told by an engine builder not to alter it because the combination of the primary tube length/size with the collector/tail pipe length size was done on purpose. The only way to get the tail pipe long enough was to run it transverse tight to the gearbox and exit out the other side of the car. The headers that use the longer tail pipe seem to have a larger diameter and shorter primary tubes as compared to the straight back model. It seems to be a function of exhaust tuning for a usable power curve, not sound. If anyone else can shed some light on the subject jump in here.

[Keith Lawrence]

It has a unique (at least to me) exhaust header also....

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but if you look hard at the top and bottom most pictures, you can see that the headers have small sections of "enlarged" tubing about 3 inches from the head. These are about 1/2 inch larger in diameter than the rest of the pipes and they are about 3 inches long. I was told it is a tuned exhaust - even if it was not someone took the time to fab it up and it is worth maintaining for vintage.

Curious to know if this is a 70ish speed trick.

Keith

[triumph_tech]

The little bulges in the primary tubes on your header are anti-reversion devices that are used by Hy-Tech a leading edge header company. It is still current technology that they still use today. The purpose is to keep the exhaust gases from reversing in the header during the valve overlap, sort of like an expansion chamber on a two stroke pipe. Not originally used in the era of the Z10's hayday but well worth keeping. Hy-Tech headers are usually stainless steel too. Other companies my use a similar design but it is supposed to be Hy-Tech's patent. If you need an old rusty original header for vintage let me know ....I'll be gald to trade!

[DanW]

I have had several requests for the parts list, setup info and manual. The manual is courtesy of Chuck Baden, I believe. If anyone would like this info, I would be glad to forward it on. I also have a fuel cell drawing, setup info for running on American Racers, etc.

Some of the info came with the car, but much of it has been the generosity of many on this board. Please PM me or email me if you would like the info.

Best regards,
Dan Wise

[Garey Guzman]

Dan,
That's a very generous offer! If the files aren't too big, maybe they can be uploaded here?

[DanW]

Garey,

Thats a great idea, unfortunately only one file is small enough to post. So I will keep on sending them via email by request. It doesn't take too long.

Regards,
Dan

[Keith Lawrence]

Now that I have the Z-10 and am going thru it, and the documents that came with it, I have a few (more) questions:

1. Is there a Zink registry anywhere? Between CF and FV, there must be many active cars and many more in hiding also.

2. Has there been, or had talk of having, a Zink reunion? Maybe in 2010 in Pittsburgh - I can help here if we have interest...

3. My logbook shows the car having a wing on the rear of the engine cover. Is there anyone that can make one of these or has a mold for them? I was told that it was cut off to run in the SCCA many years ago. It would really help keep the car original. Here's a pix of the wing:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...ckandGold2.jpg


With the long weekend, I'm hoping to get some quality time in the garage with the new car.

Thanks
Keith
PITTSBURGH

PS - got to admit, I like the BLACK & GOLD theme...may be time for a repaint!

[triumph_tech]

I have never heard of a registry or a reunion but both are great ideas. Being one of only a handful of American formula car builders, Citation/Zink should be recognized and a registry could do just that. As far as the body work and the rear wing, I'm not 100% sure that was ever the way Zink's were supplied from the factory, have to ask Steve about that. The early log book photos from my car show a very different rear body work than I am running now. Although your photo is a little unclear it looks like the same piece that my car came with. The piece was an engine cover with a wide "whaletail" in fiberglass and a pair if vertical alloy winglets fastened with a row of bolts. Most of those body pieces have been trimmed so as to just retain the engine cover hump. When I got my car I had to trim about 4" off the end to meet the dimentional regulations and remove the winglets because the wer considered "aero" devices and and not allowed in FF rules.

[hosconch]

Hey that Number 6 Zink is mine back when. HAH!!

[Keith Lawrence]

I'm finally knee deep into the Z-10 refresh and loving it. My past experience rebuilding race was was a 1956 Turner (many parts were custom made and not the best quality) and a 1964 AutoDynamics FV (again lots of custom pieces), so this Zink is very easy to work on.

I plan to pull the engine this weekend and wondered if it is easiest to pull engine/tranny as one, or take off the tranny first (with wheels intact), separate the frame and then just lift the engine off of the frame.

Any help would make my learning curve less steep - it's always better to have a little advice when trying something for the first time.

Thanks
Keith Lawrence
Pittsburgh PA

[GeoffRain]

Hi Keith,

My preferred method is to unbolt the rear crossbar at the 4 outer bolts and pull the engine & trans out together. You can usually leave the entire suspension intact (except for the rear sway bar).

From memory my removal goes something like this:

1. disconnect fuel / throttle / electronics / cooling / exhaust and oil

2. remove rear roll hoop support

3. remove rear sway bar

4. disconnect outer CVs and roll them clear of the stub axles. If they won't roll out, remove the upper rear camber link to tip the wheel out a bit.

5. hook up the hoist on a chain between a bar bolted in to the #1 exhaust port and the bolt for the roll hoop support. put a little tension in the chain

6. remove 4 outer bolts for rear frame upper section

7. unbolt engine mounts at the frame. unbolt left side mount from the block as well and remove.

8. remove engine, tranny and 1/2 shafts as a unit

Geoff

[Keith Lawrence]

Geoff,

Just the detailed info that I had hoped for (it is now printed for use this weekend).
I'm confident that I have it out before Sunday.

Thanks and hope to see you at a track soon.
Keith

[J.D. King]

Keith,
Don't sweat it, enjoy a beer or soda and take your time, you'll have it out in less than an hour.
Watch the bottom tranny bolts against the lower rear frame crossmember as you start working it out, make sure they are clear so you get the water pump pully to clear the top frame member in front.

[triumph_tech]

Add the clutch hydraulic line and brake lines (unless you have outboard brakes on the rear) and shift linkage. I have also found removing the starter gives me more wiggle room and makes things much easier. I have never removed the left engine mount from the block but next time I'll give that a try. I'm not sure if all Z-10's have it but mine also has a stabilizer link that runs from the trans to the bottom frame rail that has to be removed also(I always forget this one).

[S Lathrop]

Keith:

The engine and tranny come out as a unit. The best way is to lift the engine so that it is level as you bring it out. You come up far enough for the bell housing to pass over the lower rear cross member. Then you move rearward far enough for the water pump to clear the roll bar bulkhead. Then it is all the way out. I think you may have to remove the starter motor for additional clearence. I don't remember that detail.

[Keith Lawrence]

Thanks to all.

I spent a few hours this morning (took it slow) and it came out real easy.

Now the fun begins.

Keith

[Keith Lawrence]

Any tricks to removing the rear brake rotor on a Z-10c?

I have the tranny sitting on a table and the axles are off. It looks like I can just remove the safety wire and get a open end wrench in their to loosen and remove the caliber bolts holding to the tranny mount.

I have an AL mounting block with allen bolts into the tranny case, but these look hard to get to and I don't have a real short allen wrench (or peice of allen wrench).

Thought I give this post a shot as it looks like a PITA and high risk of being a knuckle buster (in a cold garage).

The short block is off to the machinit on Sunday to see if I need enw pistons from the wrist pin damage (under sperate Apex thread).

Thanks
Keith
Pittsburgh PA
1978 Zink Z-10C

[Mike Allison]

"It looks like I can just remove the safety wire and get a open end wrench in their to loosen and remove the caliber bolts holding to the tranny mount."

That's it. Two bolts per caliper. The lower one is a PITA but patience is all that's required.

Here's my pal John, doing the job for me on my Crossle (same setup attached to a Hewland) at Carolina Motorsports Park in 95degree, 90 per cent humidity. Just the opposite of your unheated shop.

Attachment 12295

My Zink is the same as the Crossle re: ld19 rear mounts..

Mike

[triumph_tech]

"Here's my pal John, doing the job for me on my Crossle"

That's the only good trick I know to get it done, have someone else do it for you!

[Keith Lawrence]

Mike and Gary,

THANKS!!!

[Steve B]

Keith:

I cut down a cheap open ended wrench for this job. The shorter length provides a little better wrench clearance once the bolts are broken loose. Even so, this job is indeed a PITA. Fortunately, it does not have to be done very often.

Steve Beeler, de facto EWC commissioner + FF40th co-chairman
Lola T-540 HU44
home: (734)416-8865 sbeeler@wowway.com
office: (313)441-4460 x1141 sbeeler@pmcorp.com

[Keith Lawrence]

Got it up and in a good position to get at the bolts and wire...


...wish the facet came out as easy. About 10 minutes for both sides.


Much easier than on your back under the car in the heat.

Keith

[Keith Lawrence]

Got the Zink back together and did a neighborhood buzz to make sure it was 100%.
Here's a few pix with my chief mechanic.

I found out that it does not like the 1/2 inch toe-in that it had (never checked it). I ran it just to check out the brakes, shifting and engine. Now I can set the suspension up correctly (1/16 inch toe out on my sheet).

Also, the rear side (exh) freeze plug leaked slightly. The expansion tank was completely full (I'm blaming the chief mechanic, but I should have checked first) and I think it was just blowing it out the weakest point. I'll double check with the water level reduced to a few inches below the outlet pipe and checked that the cap is 13# limit.

Has any one used the Dorman expansion plugs? Here's a nice website that talks about them. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_105a.htm

I had them in a British engine and never had a problem. I think it's a good upgrade if the plug needs to be replaced with the proper water level. Thoughts?

See you at the races.

Keith Lawrence
1978 Zink Z-10C
Pittsburgh PA

PS - still have room for entries at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix on July 10 - 12th weekend. $310 for Sat & Sun, plus $150 test day on Friday. See this website for info:
http://vrgonline.org/EVENTS/BEVR/BEVR.html

[DanW]

Keith,

Congrats on getting your car back together. The Dorman plugs work great. I used them on my last rebuild on my Lotus Twincam (same block as the FF but shorter deck height). They provide a positive seal and will easily replace the knock in plugs.