Rivet Size

[Mark Blythe]

What is the best size rivet to use when starting over with a new belly pan? I'm thinking 5/32 but would rather start with 1/8 if it won't jeopardize the integrity of the belly pan and the overall structure. The rivets I removed were maxed out at 3/16. I have a brand new belly pan and am going to use Cherry Max structural rivets with a 100 degree countersink.

Thanks in advance.

[Gerald Barrett]

Hello Mark,
When I removed my bellypan, it had 5/32" holes down the side tubes and 1/8" on all of the cross tubes. I cut the new bellypan to size and brought both pans to a machinist, who used the old pan as a jig to match the holes. I also went with 100 degree countersink, but I used aluminum rivets with steel mandrells. This will be much easier to drill it out in the future when I want to replace the pan.
Since your chassis already has 3/16 holes, I am guessing you want to drill new smaller holes now. I would tend to think 1/8", or 5/32, or a combo like mine has would be the way to go. I think I bought the bonding material and application gun at Mcmaster-Carr. I am extremely pleased with the end result of my belly-pan replacement. No more loose rivets since.
Gerald.

[Bob Wright]

A couple of presumptions- If you have an aluminum pan, use aluminum rivets, stainless use stainless. If you already have 3/16th holes, then I presume you are drilling new holes if you're thinking about 1/8th rivets? My understanding is the glue is more important than the rivets -1/8th and 3/16th are both available in countersunk steel, aluminum and stainless. Look elsewhere on this site for some very good advice on pans.

We just redid a stainless pan with existing 5/32 holes using steel countersunk rivets with steel mandrels- they were almost impossible to find and expensive- not to mention you could not use a hand rivet gun (Harbor Freight air rivet gun- cheap and suprisingly good). On the other hand I don't think the pan is ever going to come off.

[RussMcB]

Mark, something else to keep in mind. You may need various lengths due to the frame tubes probably not being completely flat and true. For instance, if you have an area where the tube has been dented upwards, you may need a rivet with a slightly longer grip range.

From memory, I think I needed lengths -4, -5 & -6 (but don't take my word for it).

I think I borrowed a friends depth gage to help me determine the lengths needed.

Having the air riveter is a big plus. It can be done by hand, but it's not easy or fun.

[Peter Horvath]

I replaced the floorpan on my '97VD last summer. I grabbed a box of the rivets I used. It says "Recommended Hole Size .192 to .196". 3/16 is .1875.
The box also says "Recommended Grip Range .261 to .370". These rivets worked perfectly.
For adhesive I used "3m Duo-pak Adhesive Cartridge, Dp-460, Off-white, 1.25 Ounce (37 Milliliter)" from McMaster. This is their slowest-drying adhesive. It worked perfectly.
I'm trying to remember, but work from the inside out I think. Pin the four outer corners, and some inside holes, with loose rivets. In other words, just pop them enough so they stay in place, but jiggle around. Finish them later. You will need help.
Pop every other rivet, then go back and finish. Even with a hydraulic rivet gun, I couldn't do it all in one day. My hands gave up. Good luck.

[steve zemke]

There are several great threads in this forum about rivets, rivet size, rivet brands, and replacing floor pans. If you use the search feature you can find what you are seeking. If I was any good at this, I would post a link to it. Call Richard Pare at ICP for some expert guidance.317.273.0089
here is the link? http://apexspeed.com/features/bellypan/