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  1. #1
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default GSXR Oil Drain Plug

    Probably a stupid question......but

    Can anyone tell me or send a photo of where the oil drain plug is located on the 2006 GSXR 1000 engine?

    I have a new 2006 GSXR 1000 but was never provided an engine manual.

    I have over filled the oil tank and want to drain a small amount out to bring the level down to the proper mark ( bubble level ) in the window, once the engine is running.

    Also is there any suggestions in draining the oil without having oil leak all over the interior engine compartment and all over the portion of the undertray right under the engine.

    I am looking for a method in order to have a nice clean "no oil leak change" all over the car.

    How often should I change the oil filter?

    I was told to change the oil after each weekend of racing. But was not instructed on the oil filter.

    What do other F1000 owners do? .......and what method do you use for a clean oil change?

    Any advice?

    Does anyone know where I can get a 2006 GSXR 1000 engine manual.
    Last edited by Richard Dziak; 09.04.07 at 11:15 PM. Reason: added text
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  2. #2
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    Default Manual

    Any motorcycle shop can order for you. I bought one but since it is 2006 they are a little spendy, $90. Just go to the local motorcycle shop and ask them to order one for you. The manual has everything you want to know. The drian plug is in the front of the engine at the bottom below the header ports I believe. If you have an aluminum belly pan, it might be a pain to get oil out so you might have to make a hole in the belly pan so the oil can drian out.

  3. #3
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default

    It appears that I have an oil filter sticking out from that area, ( front of engine, below by the header) about two inches above the aluminum belly pan.

    Is the oil drain plug under the filter, OR is the plug to the side of the filter? Driver left side of filter?

    Does it take an allen (hex) wrench to remove the oil drain plug? or a 17mm/21mm wrench?

    Does the 2006 GSXR 1000 usually have an oil filter installed?
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  4. #4
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    Default Drian Plug

    Richard, I hope I don't misquote here but I believe you are correct, it is to the driver side left of the filter at the bottom. I do believe it is the hex head not the allen wrench but again, I'm not sure. Yes I do believe the 2006 GSXR has an oil filter installed at the location described.

    I will check my manual to be certain tomorrow and can let you later in the day since I'm on 2nd shift duty at work this week. If you can't wait, I would call the motorcycle service folks.

    Hope that helps.

  5. #5
    Contributing Member formulasuper's Avatar
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    Default GSXR Manual

    GSXR manuals on Ebay starting at $6.35 on CD, up to $60.00 for factory paper edition. You can get "IT" on Ebay!
    Scott Woodruff
    83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S

    (former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
    65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC

  6. #6
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    Default

    I have a link to website where manuals can be downloaded in .pdf (adobe reader) format. I got my R1 manuals there, and I seem to remember that suzuki manual was there also. I'll look tonight and get back to you.

  7. #7
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    Default Wet Sump or Dry Sump?

    Richard,

    Congrats on the great car from Matt!!!!

    You need to talk to Matt to see if you have the stock pan or the dry sump system, that will determine how much oil and where to put it. I got my manual for our GSXR on ebay.
    Also change the filter when you change the oil, give your engine the best treatment and it will give you the best performance and durablity.

    Look forward to racing with you.

    Ed Soenke
    Last edited by High Desert Racing; 09.05.07 at 6:50 PM.

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default

    Ed:

    Great to hear from you. I really wanted to make the La Junta race over Labor Day, but my extra set of wheels that I ordered and didn't come in with the car delivery and didn't want to make the trip with just one set of tires and wheels. So I will travel to Phoenix International Raceway for the AZ event on Sept 16th and drive the car for the first time. It was certainly disappointing having any delays or back orders for critrical parts like the extra set of wheels but have to live with it for now.

    I spoke with the engine builder George Dean, and he stated that if I run the engine consistantly between 6,000 and 12,000 RPMs and being extra careful on downshifts that engine could give me 75,000 miles without any engine work needed. That would be great. He also suggested that after every weekend change the oil and the filter. I just can't find the oil damn drain plug, and feel it will created a real mess when changing the oil, as there appears no good way to drain the oil from the tank. I may have to drill a 3/4 hole in the belly pan and use a funnel with long spout to drain the oil into a pan under the undertray. I have a dry sump pan with baffles installed. In the future, I think the car builder needs to find a way to drain the oil without creating a messy situation. I am on the new F1000 learning curve and want to fully understand the engine and what it takes to keep it runing in top shape, The car is beautiful and seems to be a very high quality build. Matt Conrad did a great job in my opinion.

    I found a manual on Ebay via a CD for 8.95 and ordered it last night. Now I can really learn about the engine.

    Hope to see you soon Ed on the track. I am not out to be at the front of the pack, but to have some real fun in a true racing environment. Its always an adrenaline rush to race with others.
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  9. #9
    Global Moderator carnut169's Avatar
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    Default

    Richard, your dry-sump pan replaced the factory pan with the drain hole in the front. Mine is driver's side right. I wad up some paper towels below the hole, remove the plug and insert a rubber hose into the threaded port. Not much of a mess at all.

    I doubt Dean meant 75,000 miles. Thats forever in race-car terms. 7500 maybe? I figure two full seasons of racing, maybe more.

    I use a synthetic racing oil, very low viscosity. Its VERY expensive stuff, and I just do not see the need to change after every weekend. I run a full test day (4 20mins= MAX of about 140 miles), qual x2- MAX 70 miles, and a race- 41 miles (all of those are +/- and figuring full secessions w/o any yellows which almost never happens). In other words I doubt you would put over 250 miles on the car in a weekend. I go 4+ weekends between changes unless I run super hot. Lots of guys never change the oil in the Pinto between rebuilds. Synthetic oil if run w/i the operating temp range will last 10,000+ miles!
    Sean O'Connell
    1996 RF96 FC
    1996 RF96 FB
    2004 Mygale SJ04 Zetec

  10. #10
    Global Moderator carnut169's Avatar
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    Default

    Oh, also- with a dry-sump forget about the window.

    Fill it up (your oil tank) until it pukes oil into your overflow tank (happens at high rpm's). Mine hold about 5 qts. but I'm running a Maxsym system. You really want as much oil in there as possible as it will help cool & protect your engine.

    Lastly, depending on the info you are after the guys here:

    http://p081.ezboard.com/bdsrforum

    really know bike motors. There is also a manual (04, but not all that much has changed) that you can download.

    If you have any driveline issues talk to the guys at Taylor... they are the best.

    Anything else, talk to Matt!
    Sean O'Connell
    1996 RF96 FC
    1996 RF96 FB
    2004 Mygale SJ04 Zetec

  11. #11
    Global Moderator carnut169's Avatar
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    Default

    Re-reading your post... you sure you have a dry-sump? If you do you will most likely have an external oil pump and will definately have an external oil tank. You should also have an overflow tank for oil and water...
    Sean O'Connell
    1996 RF96 FC
    1996 RF96 FB
    2004 Mygale SJ04 Zetec

  12. #12
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    Default Drian Plug

    On my car I have a special oil pan for racing done by Lyoning and the plug is drivers left of the oil filter and slightly below it right above the floor of the car. It is a hex head. I have not taken it out yet but I like the idea of a tube once the plug is removed to catch most of the oil.

    Your car may be different.

    James

  13. #13
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply on the oil drain plug.....Matt Conrad responded to me:

    "I would not drain out any oil. I would run it with 6 quarts and just check your overflow bottle after each session. George Dean recommends adding oil until it starts to puke some out….and then leave it at that level.

    The oil drain for future reference is in the left front corner of your custom oil pan and you will need to remove the rear diffuser for an oil change. The location of the drain plug is not optimum, but we’re at the mercy of the pan manufacturer on that one.

    We change the oil and filter after every race weekend….which is fairly excessive. I would think changing every other race weekend would be more than enough."

    I have dry sump with baffles installed in the custom oil pan.

    Sean: I will try your method if possible as I don't like the idea of having to remove the rear diffuser to make the oil change......but may have to remove the diffuser if can't find alternative or your method won't work.

    George Dean did state 75,000 miles not 7500. Stated if the engine is cared for, not beaten to death, and carefully watched not to exceed 12,000 rpm's on downshifts the engine could go that distance. Then rebuild at cost of $1500-$2000.......what do you all think of that prediction? Doable?

    Matt Conrad knows about the custom oil pan better than I do.

    Sounds like the 75,000 mile prediction may be controversial, but Dean is one of the best knowing these engines, as it's his specialty and that's why I got his engine in my Phoenix.

    Any other thoughts is most welcome. Apexspeed is a great source for information and input.
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  14. #14
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default

    Found the oil drain plug....located at left side on oil pan.....looks like for certain the diffuser comes off.....looks quite easy to remove.....very few screws to remove.
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  15. #15
    Global Moderator carnut169's Avatar
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    Default

    Taking the diffuser off is something I do all the time- its not a big deal. You may want to remove it (at a min) after each weekend to do your cleaning/ nut & bolt.

    I agree w/ Matt that every other weekend is MORE than enough. Much more.


    75,000 miles? No way. Thats 300 race weekends or 30 years at 10 events per year. Hate to say it, but thats just not reasonable.
    Sean O'Connell
    1996 RF96 FC
    1996 RF96 FB
    2004 Mygale SJ04 Zetec

  16. #16
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    Default 75000 miles

    I guess Richard mistook what I said when he asked how long a engine would last. I said that is the 64 million dollar question. I told him that in a happy world a stock motorcycle would last 100,000 miles or more ( I have motorcycle customers that have done this) I then told him if the engine never got over reved, by down shifting when the engine was supposed to be up shifted, or used to slow the car going in to turns and such. If the engine kept oil pressure all the time. (look closely at your data this means no oil pressure drop outs ever!) If the Car never gets spun out, If it never gets over heated ( water or oil temp) If the oil and filter are changed regularly, If the engine has no electrical problems, If the engine is tuned and serviced on a regular basis.The engine should last a long time. I dont recall saying 75000 miles, I do remember telling him that my full built DSR engines I try to get the customer to send them back to me for refresh after 1500 miles or 20 race hours. I then told him that a stock spec engine if treated nicely (see above) should last alot longer.
    Richards engine is a wet sump and the oil level should be set with the engine idleing the oil level should be set at the top of the site window. Do not keep adding oil to a wet sump system until it comes out the breather.
    The oil filter is that black cartridge in the front of the engine, the crankcase drain plug is a 17 millimeter head bolt to the lower left of the filter if your standing behind the engine.
    I hope I shed some light on this subject.

    George

  17. #17
    Contributing Member Richard Dziak's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks George for the clarification. I will drain some of the oil out as I added an extra quart when the oil window showed 3/4 full when running. Don't want to overfill the wet sump pan.

    Seems like you clarified several points in your post, not to let the oil "puke" out. I would guess that means don't overfill to the breather causing oil to overfill into the catch can.

    Certainly the F1000 class of Formula race cars will be a steep learning curve as it is for me, and I am sure for many others, that's why these open forums have the opportunity to supply a vast wealth of knowledge, opinions and data.

    Thanks again ApexSpeed for the service that you provide all of us.

    Thanks everyone for answering my questions, and their own input.
    Last edited by Richard Dziak; 09.06.07 at 9:15 AM. Reason: added text
    Richard Dziak
    Las Cruces, New Mexico
    Former Phoenix F1K-07 F1000 #77 owner/driver
    website: http://www.formularacingltd.com
    email: sonewmexico@gmail.com

  18. #18
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    Default Oil Level

    Richard, Sounds like your getting a handle on it, Just to be sure on the wet sump set the oil level just so you can see a bubble in the top of the window with the machine at idle. If you go over that by a little it shouldnt be a problem. I have stuffed 8 quarts of oil in a engine once and still didnt get it to come out the breather. The more oil you add the higher the tempreture gets. It was common on the drysump systems to fill the tank until they would overflow in to the catch tank and find there own level.

    George

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